High performance clutch recommendation for dual mass flywheel
 

I need to purchase a high performance clutch kit for my 2.5L boxster with the stock dual mass flywheel. Any recommendations?

Yeah, the stock OEM unit.

I haven't had a lot of luck with the stock one. The car is a track and autocross car with 100 tread wear tires. Eight track days a year and a dozen autocrosses. The last clutch I put in didn't make it through the season.

That is a bit strange as we have customers that both track and autocross their cars heavily, and they have nearly 100K on theirs with no signs of problems.

contact Clutch Kits | Clutch Discs | Pressure Plates | Flywheels by Clutchnet (626) 448-7432

He built a custom one for my Boxster S.

Mike

I'm curious how your clutch seemed to have failed if you've already had an opportunity to remove and inspect it, or at least, hear about what symptoms you noticed when it was not working as expected. E.g., Did it smell? Start slipping excessively? Chatter? Have engagement point on the pedal move? Thanks.

It could very well be my flywheel is glazed as well. I replaced the clutch a year ago but didn't replace the flywheel. I've never had a clutch go so fast (I've never actually gone through a clutch). The clutch is currently slipping in third gear at full throttle, the engagement point starts low but continues through the entire stroke. It started slipping at VIR in August, it was about 110 degrees outside and the track requires a lot of shifting. The clutch did have one major burn when I let a friend drive the car at an autocross

What brand did you use when you replaced the clutch?

A correct installed stock Sachs clutch won't make problems in general. There are a lot of clutches and so called sport clutches out there that suck.

There is also a Sachs performance clutch kit with one mass flywheel and also race kits available. But i would always go with a dual mass flywheel, because it compensates a lot of vibration and helps the crankshaft.

Regards, Markus

Call SPEC and have this discussion with them.

How about the left foot lever bearing adjustment or perhaps total replacement

How are you driving the car?
My clutch went out a few months ago with almost 85 k on it. I bought the car with 59k almost 3 years ago I had more than a dozen track days and at least 15 AX days in addition to lots of back road driving.

When I replaced it, the clutch still had about 20-25% left, it was the throwout bearing that was toast

There may be bigger issues? Try this-
If the friction plate that normally lasts 100K miles (See JFP above for specifics) wears down (to the rivets??) in a few months , there must be a tremendous amount of heat generated from destroying that much material ? My concern is the heat generated in this process. That heat is transmitted to the DMF (is it wobbling ??) and then to the crankshaft.The first vulnerable bearing is #6. That is usually the first to go in normal use ,so in this situation #6 bearing may be very vulnerable and already close to failure.
Suggest some careful DMF and pressure plate detective work required. A defect in the DMF or pressure plate will chew through even the best friction plate and possibly destroy #6 bearing. Best to avoid that ?
Did you use new bolts for the flywheel ? They are another well documented vulnerability.There is an update to the torque spec for the 8 DMF to crankshaft strectch-bolts - 19 ft lbs +120 degrees (not 90! ). If some fool reused the old bolts or substituted generic bolts, that be an issue.

I have 36 track days running 50 tread wear tires and my clutch is still working fine. Now, it is a Sachs sport clutch that is used for Spec racing, but no one would ever claim that I baby it. Seems to me that something must be wrong. I'd check and inspect everything before putting another clutch in.