I would maybe ck my oil presure b4 i pull the engine,that way you would have a better idea on how your bearing's are holding up along with a oil analyst. Have Fun ! Frank

yeah they work .. but the old ones took a fair bit of force to pop off.. the beige ones just kind of sit there .. i even thought i had wrong ones but nope, they depend on tensioner to hold them in place. I don't know if anyone else noticed this.

yes your tool will do exactly the same thing. I goggled it after i posted and saw what it was, so good to go.
The Porsche service manual only states to reaplce bolt#2 with microencapsulated bolt, i just used thread sealer and have zero leaks.

i would consider the cam pads and actuators a 3 wrenches out of 10 for an experienced DIY guy. not hard just takes time.

When you get into crank bearings .. that for me shoots to an 8.5 out of 10 as now you are splitting the case and dealing with that crank box, which personally i found a friggen nightmare compared to the Mezger engines i have done.

i would suggest not splitting the case unless you plan to be off the road for quite some time.

just my 2c , no problem if others think different.

figured id add a video of the current situation. The chain is audibly heard upon acceleration with the misfires happening only in bank 2. Oddly enough no codes for cam deviation although dropping the engine seems to be the best bet for this issue and potentially any in the future

https://youtube.com/shorts/iTu4ZqKmRhs?feature=share


these are currently the codes ive been getting:
STORED:
P0300 - Random/Multiple Misfires detected
P0306 - Misfire Cyl 6
P0304 - Misfire Cyl 4
P0305 - Misfire Cyl 5

PENDING:
P1319 - Misfire Emission Related
P1318 - Misfire Cyl 6 Emission
P1316 - Misfire Cyl 4 Emission
P1317 - Misfire Cyl 5 Emission

P1524 - Camshaft Adjustment Bank 2

Just rechecked my 99–they are left-hand threads.

P1524 is essentially a cam deviation code.

Update: Time has come for me to start buying everything ill need. so far i have what ive put below. If there is anything else i might be missing feel free to correct me again. As of right now I would rather not replace the tensioners although given the high mileage its at, im guessing itd better to buy new ones as opposed to just putting new orings on em. the tension on em would probably be slightly shot being a 190k mile vehicle

Assembly grease
Cam cover sealant
Cam caps
2x Timing chains cam to cam
2x Timing chain rails
Porsche Tool #9632
Timing kit w/ cam locking / brace
2x variable timing adjuster seals
oil pump seals
Left and Right Tensioners
oil
oil filter

question too, would i need 4 replacement green cam caps ? and regarding Porsche Tool #9632, i decided im going to make it myself per a youtube video recommendation from another thread. though some have said the 99 boxster is a left while other sources online say right. so thatll be interesting to figure out.

another question regarding these guides. I know the new ones are the beige and the old ones were a dark brown / reddish colour. im hoping to get some insight as to which ones i SHOULD get. both Pelican and Parts Geek, the sites i use for genuine parts, both have beige as genuine although there has been some back and forth whether the beige is the best pick or not.
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1749001347.jpg

in regards to this, wouldnt they just be to 2 seals associated ? or are there literal part replacements because i know the sites that sell OE seals have 2 per tensioner, thatd save me $200+ on just new tensioners if im just replacing those

just keep in mind genuine is a crafty brand name for a company providing reproduction parts . as you are buying a "genuine" part. This is why i don't use that term , you can buy:

OE: original equipment with Porsche stamp that your car originally came with.
OEM: Original equipment manufacturer. the same supplier that supplied your original parts may or may not match OE quality standards.
Aftermarket: all other companies that provide substitute parts. ( "genuine" in this case )

to do again I would get the OE parts for this job as it is so critical.

you would have to research as i have never done it .. the whole tensioner from Porsche is in the thousands I think.,

6 caps total , 3 per side.

those are more expensive than the ones supplied by Porsche. Did you ask your local dealer ??

https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/99610525301.htm?pn=996-105-253-01-M100&SVSVSI=785&DID=363

always be aware of what you are buying:

https://www.made-in-china.com/products-search/hot-china-products/Genuine_Parts.html

thank you very much for the detailed responses. shortly after my previous replies i placed an order from pelican with OE replacements including the guides. i figured if the brown/red ones whatever colour they are, lasted me this long, id do it again. I do just have one more question regarding those rebuild kits, did they involve more than just the 2 seals needed to be replaced on the tensioners themselves or were they just those 2 that can be bought off Pelican ? thank you for the assistance again

as i said i haven't done it , but there is a user on here that has and bought the kits .. hartywags or something like that is his user name, he is pretty active on here so if you can find him PM him. I think he was going to try and start a business rebuilding them so he would know.

oh can you let me know if your new guides snap in when the time comes ? my old ones i used channel locks to pry off, my new ones just kind of sat there and kept falling off until i put the chain and tensioner on.

noted on the rebuild kit aspect and regarding the snapping portion yes i will. I plan on maybe starting a new thread with detailed pictures and responses with my personal process just because i know people like to leave out certain information and even the replacement parts required/ tips. i'll definitely leave a good chunk of that to the pads too

finally got day 1 started with engine dropping in the garage to do pads and chains. the bottom is oddly easier to handle rather than the top which is next to tackle. given the lack of space id say its definitely interesting. anyone have any tips ?

im debating on keeping the intake manifold on just for the sake of keeping everything in 1 piece as much as I can but that may bring some clearance issues when the time comes to drop it. disconnecting the AC im sure will be an interesting part to tackle considering i dont have an AC machine to drain it
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1763308104.jpg

You don't need to disconnect the AC lines. If you follow the Pelican DIY, just remove and set the compressor inside the cabin, behind the driver's seat.

Remove the rear crashbar and the heat shields to give you as much room as possible to pull the engine out.

Maybe review this before going further. It has some helpful info you may have missed.
https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/15-ENGINE-Engine_Drop/15-ENGINE-Engine_Drop.htm

I subscribed because I will do this job as well, but will not drop the engine. I found something that should find your interest. When removing the shafts there is a chance that a tapped could drop.This is copied from the WSM:

Concern:

Magnetization of the hydraulic valve tappets (lifters) can result in failure.

Information:

Magnetized tools or magnets must NOT be used during removal and installation of the valve tappets. This applies to all valve tappets that are to be reused

The magnetic properties of a magnetized tool or magnet, if used during engine repairs, can cause the valve tappets to fail. For example, the ball of the check valve inside the valve tappet may become magnetized and stick.

When performing engine repairs, only use a suitable non-magnetic tool such as a rubber suction cup (e.g. valve lapping tool) to remove and install the valve tappets.


Another important resource

Addition:
From June 1999, modification of the tensioning element (VarioCam). The tensioning screw was changed to a left-hand thread. This can be identified by the index (57) in the area of the slide rail.
It was used from engine number 65X19696 onwards.

Where can this be sourced?

I don't know that it will help you, but I was just on the phone with :Pelican parts about this yesterday. I got the rebuild gasket kit and it looks like the o-rings come with it. They confirmed their presence in the kit.