Ignition Lock Replacement 2000 Boxster S
 

The Ignition key won’t turn in the lock, unless it is jiggled vertically very slightly. Can I still buy a new lock cylinder?

You can, but I would first replace the electrical switch module at the end of the mechanical lock cylinder. I did exactly that and it solved a similar problem for me. A malfunctioning electrical switch can cause a number of odd problems, including the one you described. If you DIY, be prepared to lie on your back in the footwell and fight off claustrophobia. A telescoping mirror wouldn't be a bad idea to help you locate the two setscrews that hold the switch in place. The setscrews are frozen in place with Loctite and are sometimes difficult to break loose. A small, L-shaped flat-blade screwdriver is indispensable for dealing with them. Aftermarket replacement electrical switches are available from Amazon for fifteen bucks; OEM switches cost considerably more. The mechanical lock cylinder assembly, which also incorporates the steering wheel lock, costs an arm and a leg. But ninety-nine times out of a hundred the problem lies with the electrical switch module.

FYI..... a number of videos on You Tube of the different procedures to replace that switch, view them all because some are better than others....but viewing them all is a good idea.

In general, there seems to be two methods in the videos. One, is to do all the work from UNDER the dash while the second method is to work from both UNDER and from the TOP by also removing a side vent. In both cases it's the tiny set screws with loctite that cause the most difficulty in the process.

One other note: from reading it appears that the switch may be difficult to find and purchase as a Porsche part. There are threads here that say the part is also identical to the one available through Audi. (That's the one i bought as a "spare" if and when it needs to be changed at some future point)

Good luck....i understand its a pain in the butt job. Most say, stop every once in awhile, take a break with a drink, then contort yourself again and finish....then visit a chiropractor....lol

I tried both methods. In retrospect, I would forego removing the side vent. It didn't provide much more access to or view of the switch, and wrestling the vent out and back into place added to the PITA quotient of the project. I ended up doing it all under the dash with the help of a telescoping mirror, a small L-shaped flat-blade screwdriver, and plenty of swearing.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
I would also support that. However, it is a question of body shape...

Thank you. When/if that time comes for me... it'll be from under. I have all the tools. :)

Just a thought..... Since loosening those tiny set screws with Loctite seems to be universally a PITA, I'm wondering if there's anything one could apply to them that would "dissolve" or break down the Loctite? Obviously "heat" can't be used in that location and it would have to be something that could penetrate and seep into the tiny threads.

Maybe nothing other than force will work.... but just a thought.

Assuming (and I think it’s a safe assumption) that Loctite is actually what’s used in this application, Henkel notes that heat - 250C/550F - is the only means, beyond brute force, to break the bond it creates.

Well...IF "heat" is the only way to "release the bond" of a Loctite type product, that's a non-starter. The space is way too confining to apply heat.

I don't remember the screws being secured with "Loctite", instead the access to the screws was sealed with sealing wax, which was easy to break away.

I doubt it was "sealing wax". It might look like that but I guarantee car makers don't use "sealing wax".....lol

They often secure/mark screws with this "stuff", kind of sealing lacquer.

It was a couple of years ago - but I removed the entire assembly from the car (electrical switch module and mechanical lock cylinder). It was more work but not difficult and made it easy to replace the electrical switch module.

Removing the lock cylinder requires far more disassembly than just replacing the electrical switch, because the mechanical cylinder assembly interfaces with the steering column. I felt it was too invasive, since the problem was only the switch. On the other hand, I removed the side vent, hoping (in vain) to get better access, so I have no claim on consistency.

If the residue of red stuff on the set screws was not Loctite (available in red, blue; and green), whatever it was seemed to lock them just as securely as Loctite.

I’ve done this 3 times. Not really that bad and I’m 54. Just have to slide in right. A short screw driver helps. Easier than removing front wheel liners.

I've done both, and difficulty- and PITA-wise I gotta give the nod to replacing the ignition switch. I have a set of the shortest screwdrivers in creation, but there's no room to turn the screw on the passenger side if you get the screwdriver seated. A small, L-shaped flat-blade screwdriver did the trick. Second choice: a screwdriver bit, turned with a small ratchet or wrench.

I really didn’t find to bad, definitely under an hour. It’s all about position.

I hate you (no offense). All seriousness aside, most folks who've done it report experiences similar to mine. Perhaps you've sold your soul to the Dark One? In which case, that's cheating.

Most things take me forever and I usually break something. I have to really force myself to do stuff because things always happen. Just last week I pulled off front bumper to clean radiators. I put back together and now frunk won’t open. 986/996 switch repair is the gift life gave me. 😀. Fortunately, I shine every 10 years or so.

I have been putting this job off. Thanks for giving me hope that it won't be too bad!