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Engine rebuild input
I picked up a 2002 S with a bad engine a few years ago. My intention was to get it running then decide if I wished to keep it, and sell my 99, or just sell. I got another engine which was DOA. The seller gave me another which I installed....and lasted a mile and is still in the car. I have been accumulating parts to do a rebuild--IMS Solution, updated oil pump parts, rings and all the consumables. Yes, I'm aware re-ringing is unlikely to end well, but just to have it running as I complete another engine with the Nickies upgrade is a consideration. I do have three blocks to work with! Thanks for your suggestions.
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Although I've rebuilt a number of engines, JFP in PA divested me of any notion of rebuilding a 986 engine, a task that requires specialized equipment I don't have and don't want to purchase. Instead, I would find a nice low-mileage engine on eBay for $2500-$3000. It would be less expensive, far easier, and much faster to swap engines than rebuild one. I'm slow. It would take me the better part of a week to drop the old engine and probably another week to stick the new one in. Before I installed the new powerplant, I'd make sure the clutch was good and replace the IMS bearing if needed. But a rebuild would probably take me three months, even it I had all the tools and resources needed at my disposal. Moral: Every 986 owner should pick up a spare engine from eBay, just for the peace of mind it would provide.
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Thanks for the input!
I've been acquiring the tools for some time, and I'm retired so have plenty of time to do the work. As I mentioned, I've gone the replacement engine route, and that is why I have three sets of components to choose from now! That is why I am trying to decide between going all-out and just getting the Nickies or re-ringing what I have ready to reassemble. Thanks again. |
IMHO, re-ringing one of these engines is a short term solution as the cylinder bores get oval shaped, and would be just a short matter of time before the engine starts burning oil again
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For engines, I prefer to buy whole cars that were running when they ran into something. Too many 'used-good' engines that I've heard of turn out to be junk.
If I was going to rebuild, I'd use the shop manual as a guide as well as other peoples helpful posts and videos including:
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I agree on the used engines! As I mentioned, I got two--both bad. And agree on the rings, too.
The LN DVD is on my shelf (and now if I could just find the companion book after a move.) Thanks, everyone. |
Oh for the days when a Model-A engine swap could be done with simple tools at the junkyard. Buddy replaced his engine for $25 which tells you how old I am. Drove it for several years afterwards.
Take a look at the engine and see how much in the way of wiring and hoses are outside the block and heads. Even assuming you had a perfect base (rebuilt block and a rebuilt set of heads), just removing all that stuff and reinstalling it is going to give you a diagnostic headache. Old wires and hoses and fused connectors. Clamps galore. There is a reason completely rebuilt and reinstalled engines with improved parts cost double what the car is worth. But don't improve the value of the car as much except perhaps to the owner. |
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I had a Model A. What a POS--glad I unloaded it. Simple but annoying. Well, I've had the engine(s) in and out of that Boxster at least three times, so I'm pretty used to the routine (especially the e-brake cable!) |
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