my Boxster is haunted
 

So I park my Boxster in the rain and several hours pass and all of a sudden the top decides to open.

I disconnect the the arms to put it manual mode, but the motor won't shut off. I remove the fuse and all is well.
Except, the backup lights won't turn off, the spoiler keeps raising, both windows lower two inches if I hit a bump and then go back up, and the alarm goes off if I remove the key.
Any thoughts?

It's only funny when it's not your car. And I don't want to jinx myself lol!

Pretty much any time I've had "gremlins" like that (and after checking obvious things like fuses, connections, etc.), it might end up being the ignition switch. If your key is easy to put in and take out, then I'd probably look elsewhere, but that's where my head went first based on what you described.

Water on the floor behind and under the driver's seat.
Sounds crazy.... but check it out. Tell us what you find.


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"... all of a sudden the top decides to open."

That begs the question:

How in the hell does the top, usually latched tightly shut, suddenly decide to open?

WTF am I missing here? It doesn't meet the acid test.

OP, you've some explaining to do.

I hope I don't come out smelling like an idiot.

I'm waiting. :rolleyes:

I’m with @Maytag. Wet Immobilizer perhaps

Starter’s got a good point though…

I misspoke, more accurately, the top tried to open. The clam shell was half open and a passing neighbor thought it looked odd and raised the alarm.
As a consequence the top linkage is a mess, and I have a hole in the rubber pan surrounding the drain caused by the link that came off the ball joint.
Full marks to the wet floor diagnosis, The immobilizer is toast.
All of which leads me to two questions.
What are the pros and cons to removing the top linkage and using manual mode?
What should i use to patch the membrane.
I really appreciate the input ! Thank you all

I've never tried to reduce the top to manual operation, so I can't really help you there.

As far as patching up the membrane goes: this is the only thing keeping water from killing another immobilizer, so I would consider replacing it, even with used from a junk yard.

If that's just not in the cards, I'd look at sheet metal tape (not fabric duct tape, but rather the aluminized duct tape). It's durable and seems to stick to ANYTHING.

But surely replacement is a better idea.

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When I got my 2000s the previous owner had removed the rods to the top but left the ones to the clamshell.

Clamshell works as it should, just have to pause when it’s at full open to either manually open (or close) the top. Then proceed with automatic clamshell closure.

Works just fine that way.

This is what I did also. I can put it down while seated but have to get out to put it up. Likely someone with stronger arms could put it up while seated.
To fixed the pan (I think it is styrofoam not rubber) I used GOOP to glue a piece of flexible plastic over the tears... it is still OK 4 years later.

For the pan, flashing tape would probably be ideal, wide, sticky, and designed for the purpose.

Aw yeah! Bingo! Hadn't thought of that, but that's perfect.

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hi everybody
Great suggestions ! I was thinking of just connecting the clam shell , now I'll try it for sure !
Replacing the membrane is a possibility, I think I'll try Goop first,
Or, flashing tape, which I'm assuming is for roof flashing ?
Thanks again

Locate and properly clean your drain tubes. There's a few of them. The entire back window area is intended to drain to specific places that have drain tubes. These tubes can clog easily as they're tiny.

As a note this should be regular maintenance.

Until then don't park in the rain. You'll eventually fry the immobilizer that costs big bucks. And that's not why we drive these Porsche's.

Thx Dog's
Drain holes are are the agenda. There is a snake which is made to clean out trombones. I have one on order and will post an update on how it works.
Anyway to waterproof the immobilizer? Or add drain holes in the floor pan?
Thanks

@boxsterboxster yes, builder flashing tape. It's mostly marketed for windows and doors I think, it's basically really sticky, very thick and wide tape. Here is an example

thanks for the clarification. The trombone snake is perfect for Porsche drains.
It's basically a miniature plumbing snake.
thanks again

I used silicone caulk in the tears of my drain pans.

Some sell those aluminum sealed boxes for the computer under the seat and they are expensive, a friend of mine used a good quality tupperware box with lid and carefully cut the slots and holes needed for the cables and sealed with silicon, it seems to work.
I don't have the problem with water anymore since I have the 911 style hardtop conversion and that eliminates water issues (still need the drain pans to be in good shape with this hardtop)

I’d like to see pictures of your 911-style hardtop conversion

I would just like to add: There are also drains in the cowling that have to be kept free flowing.

i wound up filling the hole with goop, letting it dry fully, and covering with the flashing tape
it turns out the thing under the drivers seat is the rear control module. i ordered a new one and the waterproof box, we'll see

I just read a post here or on Rennlist that said the company that does immobilizer work sells a box that seals watertight. Hope that helps. I need to look into that too. Worst design feature.

I will tackle that when it is warmer. I already sourced grommets for Mercedes that have a great design, water can flow immideatly outside with no need of accumulation. The need a hole of exactly 19mm diameter which I will perform with a crown drill. Corrosion protection of course.

It will secure the home of M534 against malicious events, of course, this does not obviate the need for regular drainage checks...

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02/plg1735398908.jpg

Btw, the cheapest way to source them is directly from a Mercedes dealer, the number is all you need

I used this in mine. It's a Porsche 911 headlight bucket drain tube.
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1735415576.jpg

Part number 911.631.259

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1735415785.jpg

I used a butyl-based sealant to protect the bare edge after drilling.

Interesting, I also thought about that, you can place the control on its head(s) and gain extra space (to water)

In my rallycross Boxster, its flopping around between the seat and the door standing on it's side. ...and there's holes in the floor too. There are no side windows and the drainage around the engine has been removed. I intend to do better, but since Woody built it about five years ago it has been fine.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02/12341735511933.jpg