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Damn mice.... Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk |
If you go back to my first post to you.....
a possibility of a common ground issue was mentioned.. These cars have different 14 ground points... I see you got it fired up by running a jumper ground to the MAF. I think the MAF grounds via the ECU but I am not positive. The MAF is also two sensors in one..... One measures air temp. the other measure air mass. I do not know if they both ground via a common ground or not. A wiring diagram would show you. If the MAF does ground via the ECU you have and ECU ground issue. If you have a ground point issue chances are your going to have further issues with the car. You need to go through your ground points and the ECU ground point to avoid that possibility. |
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So your bandaid fix makes more sense at this point. If there are circuits that get their ground via the ECU then the ECU has to be grounded to the chassis in some way. ECU ground issues are not that uncommon. If you go to youtube and look up scannerdanner he has some video's on diagnosing the issue. He is a very good source of diagnostic information. |
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I am unsure why the Durametric shows Hot film type MAF data when hooked up to our cars.
Our cars use A Hot wire type MAF. not Hot film type So 0v on the Hot film data "may be" what you want to see. Just depends on how the Duramatic software is set up I have always disregarded the hot film data and just looked at the other MAF data. If your getting air temp. data and Mass Air flow data then both parts of the MAF are working. |
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One note about the wire, I initially tried grounding the wire to one of the ground points on the front of the engine block, however, I noticed it wouldn’t run smooth on that ground, and there were stored codes still. I changed the ground point to the chassis. There’s a bolt hole in the body right near the MAF so I grounded it there using a bolt. Reset everything and calibrated throttle and it started up and ran flawlessly. I don’t know if I’ll end up with this car, I sure love it to death. Considering it’s got 140k miles I might just leave the bandaid fix until it blows, or maybe it’ll go for another 50k miles who knows. Either way, I’m glad I could sort the issue in time, and can drop it off and enjoy my trip. A lot of blood sweat and money in this thing. :cheers: |
Pictures of car pre accident
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1680134266.jpg
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1680134317.jpg surely not everyones cup of tea, but man was I proud. full colored ppf wrap done myself. only had it for a month before the car got hit. Do you guys think it's worth trying to keep? so many new parts all new suspension, lots of engine work, relatively new clutch, 987 custom seats full power and heated, cruise control and Bose sound with upgraded amp and speakers, new transmission, big sway bars, borla exhaust. I just wouldn't be able to replace it for whatever insurance would pay I'm sure. or I could save my pennies for a 996..... |
Only you know how much money and effort has been put on this car, I don't know the extent of the damage but perhaps is best to let the insurance company write off the car, and then buy it back from them..
With the money left, you can start saving for a 987BS, after driving the 986 you would not like the 996.. yes it's bigger but that's it.. |
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Dude, I remember your car now... You posted pics after the wrap and a bunch of ****************************s gave you **************** about the matte black, right?
I think it's a sweet car myself. Not factory, but very sharp and very unique. That's what custom stuff is all about! I would take the insurance money, patch her up (you're clearly skilled), and see how much longer she will go. Yes, things will continue to break. Id be curious about a compression test - 140k miles is a lot for any gasser. Blue is right about the ecu grounding comments - the ecu itself is grounded but it monitors the voltage on the ground to serve as a reference for the grounds that feed into it. That way, sensitive electronics (maf sensors included) that have small variations in their signal voltages due to electrical fluctuations can be "sorted out" by the ecu. It's kind of like running a ****************ty pic through a filter. However, for the maf sensor, it really doesn't matter too much. In open loop fueling the dme ignores the maf altogether, and in closed loop fueling the narrowband o2 sensors trump the maf input. Sure, the maf readings do matter, but only so that the ecu can ballpark the conditions onto the fueling maps. If it's completely out of whack then it will cause issues, and that is why you saw trouble when you were grounded to the block - there is way too much electrical interference there. But grounding to the chassis is more than likely good enough for just driving and enjoying the car. Never forget... The enemy of good is better ;) Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk |
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I did a compression test like two years ago and if I remember correctly it was 160-165 psi all the way around with the throttle plate closed which from whatever I was reading at the time looked good. |
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