Cleaned my radiators over the weekend
 

First time cleaning the radiators since I have owned the car (2017).

Here is what I found:

https://imgur.com/a/uI5G1Iz

This all started because I was driving here in wonderful Utah (about 95F) and hit 236 while driving. Highway temps were around 227, driving through a neighborhood was 236. Turning the AC off/on made no difference in temps. This was during the hot part of the day, but even still I had never seen that temp before.

I have a new water pump as of 2 years ago, and the coolant was replaced with factory Por$$$$che coolant. Expansion tank/coolant system was pressure tested and passed. I also have a 180F tstat.

After cleaning the rads I have driven on the highway (around 70F) averaging 188-195 and around 199-207 while idling in a parking lot/drive through. I hit 211 while idling, but the aux fan kicks on at that temp and brings it down to 205-207ish.

Surprisingly the AC has been working great even before the cleaning, blows nice and cold even in traffic.

I am kicking myself for not taking the extra effort to add mesh under the front grill covers to prevent this in the future. I'll be adding that in the future. Been considering wrapping/repainting the front bumper at some point anyways.

What operating temps do you all run at?

Wow....just about to do this now!

How are you measuring your water/coolant temp? Rolling with Durametric?

I would be interested to see what your temperatures are with meshed inlets vs open for a similar ambient temperature.

I have heard that there is a significant reduced cooling effect. I have been meshed up for years and have never had the opportunity to measure the difference.

Apparently mesh diffuses the cooling flow; I cannot direct you to any data...or proof

"Old wife's tale", the grills the car came with obstruct more than mesh screens do. We have dozens of customers, as well as my personal cars, running high quality mesh screens and none of them have ever shown any signs that the mesh was doing anything other than keeping the crap out of the radiators............................

I monitored temps through my ScanGauge2, so OBD2 temp readings. The temp gauge on the dash is typically 2-5F higher from what I can tell.

Or the two sensors track different points in the coolant system. That's how my Crown Vic is.

I'm doing a long highway drive tonight and tomorrow (2+ hours) so I'm curious to see temps over a longer drive.

And on the mesh, I really can't imagine it makes a difference in airflow at all. My dad added the same mesh on his 996 C2 and has 0 issues.

Eventually I'll go back and add that in. From what JFP mentioned it looks to be the consensus.

EDIT: JFP, where did you source your mesh?

We exclusively use Zunsport, top quality stainless steel welded mesh with an exceptionally durable powder coating, super easy toolless installation. Some of the ones we installed years ago have seen 50 - 100K street miles and still look like the day they were installed Well worth the money.

Update after a 2 hour drive. 85F

Highway was stop and go through the city and the car reached about 220 with the AC on. Never exceeded that. Once I got driving again, car eventually stabilized around 193 while driving at 80MPH.

So it looks like the car still heat soaks when hot, but once I get driving the car cools down consistently. I even hit 185 on some downhill portions.

While driving the car never broke 205. Only in stop and go traffic did it get hotter.

The majority of the drive was under 200 so I'd consider it a victory.

Also thanks for the info JFP. I found a link for those interested.

https://www.zunsport.com/en/porsche-boxster-s-986-outer-grille-set?filter=194

Looks like they install without taking the bumper off, so this is probably what I will go with.

Quick update for anyone curious. I somehow missed that my passenger radiator fan isn't turning on. My drivers side works.

That probably explains why the car still gets hot in traffic. Interesting though its not all the time. Parked in a lot, idling with the top up and AC on while it was 85F and the car cooled down to 193. So the one fan does an ok job.

Time to look into replacing/repairing the fan. Hoping its the resistor fix.

Also looks like the bumper is coming off again anyways, so I'll be adding the mesh.

And because more switches are always fun and I watch my temperature like a hawk anyways I'll add a manual toggle switch for the high fan setting.

My driver side fan failed me at around 120K. I opted to replace both fans... coming from a car with around 65K. I've the OG fan and housing if you need it. Likely you need just the fan... as you've the housing. Let me know and we'll work it out. ;)

:cheers:

I'll keep that in mind Starter986. I don't think I'll need a housing, but if I do I will get with you.

Where did you source your fans out of curiosity?

I went outside today to set up the manual fan high power override switch, both to have the option to cool the car and to test if the high setting works on the passenger side.

As I understand it, turning the AC on runs the low setting on the fan. And commonly the low setting will stop working when the resistor pack dies.

So I am hoping it's just my resistor that died.

Of course when I went outside to start this, I realized I had left my headlights on and killed the battery. First time in 6 years of ownership doing that. So the battery is now removed and charging on my trickle charger.

I don't recall... but it was an outfit that sells, in addition to other sports cars, used Porsche parts. The fans I purchased came from a newer Boxster/Cayman with !64K miles on them.

I had considered the resisitor as well then deciding to go with the lower mileage entire unit.

You can poke around some parts sites as well... best wishes.

Appreciate the info. I'll start my searches with used fan assemblies and go from there.

Last update to wrap up this saga for now.

I installed a manual fan switch, some pics below.

https://imgur.com/a/UKIQW4d

I definitely bought mini ATC fuse pin adapters instead of standard ATC, but I bent them and made it work. I secured them to the relay with a ziptie and used a connector. I can take better pics of the relay if anyone is interested.

Other than that, there is a pic of the switch location, ground location and wires coming from the relays.

The results were better than I expected. It's been 95+ here and I can keep the car under 200 easy with the high fans on.

They are most effective at slower speeds but they definitely make a difference at highway speed as well. I can keep the car around 190-195 on the highway at the hottest time of day. In the evening when it cools down I run about 185-188.

I would highly recommend running the manual fan control for anyone in a hotter climate.

I just ran my own ground and interrupted it with a high current switch. The smaller switch is for my USB charging ports that are connected direct to the battery with a fuse so I can run them when the car is off.