Someone hit my car

[blue62]

Ike
That is a little nasty.
Is there paint cracking at the lower right portion of the dent? on a ridge?
If you pull that dent pull just a little then tap your crowns (pressure ridges) down.
Sometimes they don't move by tapping. but tap them anyway.
Then pull a little more and tap the crowns down over and over.
The idea is to release pressure in the area of the damage.
All the pressure is in the crowns(ridges).
You want to watch the crowns (ridges) the most.
You want them to soften and start to flow toward the low area of the dent.
If you pull up to much low metal to fast it will put more pressure on the crowns (ridges).
Then things will get worse.
Softening the crowns and getting them to start flowing towards the center of the lowest area is the
most important concept to understand.
You want to pull in a way that it helps to open up the crowns release the pressure and allow the crowns to drop and flow towards the lows.
Plan every pull to help do that.
Then help the crowns along by tapping.

Warm the area up with a heat gun it will soften the paint and help keep it from cracking.
It will also make the metal move easier. Keep the metal warm while working on it.

[ike84]

Originally Posted by blue62

Ike
That is a little nasty.
Is there paint cracking at the lower right portion of the dent? on a ridge?
If you pull that dent pull just a little then tap your crowns (pressure ridges) down.
Sometimes they don't move by tapping. but tap them anyway.
Then pull a little more and tap the crowns down over and over.
The idea is to release pressure in the area of the damage.
All the pressure is in the crowns(ridges).
You want to watch the crowns (ridges) the most.
You want them to soften and start to flow toward the low area of the dent.
If you pull up to much low metal to fast it will put more pressure on the crowns (ridges).
Then things will get worse.
Softening the crowns and getting them to start flowing towards the center of the lowest area is the
most important concept to understand.
You want to pull in a way that it helps to open up the crowns release the pressure and allow the crowns to drop and flow towards the lows.
Plan every pull to help do that.
Then help the crowns along by tapping.

Warm the area up with a heat gun it will soften the paint and help keep it from cracking.
It will also make the metal move easier. Keep the metal warm while working on it.

Thanks for the advice blue. That was my plan - work my way from the outside in along a circular path, with a masons hammer near by for some gentle persuasion. The part along the window will be the most difficult I think, hopefully I don't break it. It's ok if I do, that gives me a reason to get a new window with the doggy door in it like I've always wanted lol. I'm not going for perfect, just enough to be able to Bondo and then she needs a new paint job.

Ironically enough, the cedar 8x8s that held up the barn which crushed the truck are being repurposed - they will make fine cross members for a flat bed! That way, not only did she survive the beating, but she got something out of it lol.

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[blue62]

Originally Posted by ike84

Thanks for the advice blue. That was my plan - work my way from the outside in along a circular path, with a masons hammer near by for some gentle persuasion. The part along the window will be the most difficult I think, hopefully I don't break it. It's ok if I do, that gives me a reason to get a new window with the doggy door in it like I've always wanted lol. I'm not going for perfect, just enough to be able to Bondo and then she needs a new paint job.

Ironically enough, the cedar 8x8s that held up the barn which crushed the truck are being repurposed - they will make fine cross members for a flat bed! That way, not only did she survive the beating, but she got something out of it lol.

Sent from my SM-G970U1 using Tapatalk

Start at that sharpe "V" closest to the door. then work slowly to the right. That will lift and roll metal towards the door which will unlock that mess in the lower right and move some metal away from the rear window.
Think of how the pleats in an accordion open and close. As the edges of the pleat move out and up the center ridge opens and drops.
With a "V" as sharpe as the one pointing at the door you want to start as close to the "V" as possible with your pull tab and still move metal.
The sharper the "V" or ridge the more tension or pressure locked up in that area.

Your only going to be able to rough it out because you can't get to the back side with anything.
But you may be able to move enough metal to improve the gap at the window and the door if the door gap was affected.
Then you can level it with Bondo as you said.
So it is more important to get the highs down (gently) then it is to get the lows up.

[ike84]

Originally Posted by blue62

Start at that sharpe "V" closest to the door. then work slowly to the right. That will lift and roll metal towards the door which will unlock that mess in the lower right and move some metal away from the rear window.
Think of how the pleats in an accordion open and close. As the edges of the pleat move out and up the center ridge opens and drops.
With a "V" as sharpe as the one pointing at the door you want to start as close to the "V" as possible with your pull tab and still move metal.
The sharper the "V" or ridge the more tension or pressure locked up in that area.

Your only going to be able to rough it out because you can't get to the back side with anything.
But you may be able to move enough metal to improve the gap at the window and the door if the door gap was affected.
Then you can level it with Bondo as you said.
So it is more important to get the highs down (gently) then it is to get the lows up.

Thanks again blue. I got sidetracked by the ignition issue and haven't started it yet but I will post pics on progress when able to do so..

Btw, starter, sorry for hijacking your thread

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[Starter986]

Originally Posted by ike84

Thanks again blue. I got sidetracked by the ignition issue and haven't started it yet but I will post pics on progress when able to do so..

Btw, starter, sorry for hijacking your thread

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All good. And... I hear ya about getting sidetracked, lol. Be sure to post some pictures of your dent repair. I wouldn't touch that with a 10-foot pole. You've balls of steel.

[Starter986]

Wife gets insurance policy documents in the mail... reviews... and tells me, "The credit union doesn't own the Edge anymore, Have the insurance company correct it. It's paid off."

I give the document a quick once-over... see the error... and make a mental note. However, before leaving the document I look into the coverage area and, voila, it appears the Boxster HAS been covered. Comp and collision.

Give my broker a call... Yup. Covered. Also, rental car coverage.

The $1,000 I was prepared to pay out of pocket has been reduced to a $500 deductible ($250 deductible for comprehensive). Insurance agent classified it as collision because, "... moving object on the ground".

Appraiser comes out Tuesday to give it the once over... and the shop will take over from there. For the original $1,000 it just included the quarter repair. I was going to rub off/out the corner of the bumper cover and source a gently used tail light. For $500 I'll jus get everything fixed the right way.

I'm thinking within the next few weeks it'll go into the shop. I'll apprise.

Good morning.

[Seal1968]

That is a good morning.

Glad this will soon be back to "new". While you're in there, see if they can do a paint correction and polish for extra cash. When my Audi was repaired the body shop did this for me for $600, including repainting the trunk lid. Good luck sir!

[Seal1968]

Sorry to hear...the guys at that shop are hacks.

I'd be letting the F-bombs FLY...good on you to be restrained and call your agent.

Geez. Good luck sir.