Thanks......I went with a URO regulator rather than a Porsche one. It was just so much easier to get; half the price and apparently has an improved ball bearing design over OEM. Just came today and looks to be of decent quality.

I was pretty confident in just ordering the part after pushing on the window from the top down and seeing the glass really move down a fair bit so there is a loss of control in there somewhere.

Not sure of what the procedure is to disable the air bag so hopefully it is in Pelican write up. I would think I can disconnect the battery and be alright, but not entirely sure. Anyway I have the regular interior pry tools found on Amazon...could not find anything that might kinder on the leather door card and will open it up with my head far away from that thing.

I will report back once I have the URO in...and running.

This thread and the links within it provided the information I was missing. The symptoms I was experiencing included:
1. Passenger window did not drop when I pulled the inside or outside handle.
2. The door lock would turn on and off at random while I drove.
3. When I locked the car using the key fob, I would hear a "double beep" but the car would lock.

My research pointed to the microswitch attached to the exterior door handle. I replace that microswitch yesterday. I reset the window by rolling it all the way up and all the way down and holding each position for 10 seconds. This solved the problem with the window failing to drop when I used the outside door handle. (For some reason that I cannot explain, I have not yet tested the inside handle.)

When I locked the car, I heard the "double beep" but it seemed to take longer to sound. I estimate that it required about 20 seconds.

When I was fumbling around inside the door, the window would drop and the car would beep when I touched the door latch mechanism. (The first time this happened was when I connected the cable from the door handle microswitch to the door latcch. Because I couldn't see exactly which part I was touching, I cannot tell what caused the window to drop.

My current thinking is that the microswitch in the door latch and possibly the solder joints in the door latch are the problem. I have the following questions:

1. Does this sound plausible?
2. If I take the assembly out, I'd like to replace the microswitch and reflow the solder in the possibly defective joints. Does this sound like a good tactic?
3. Does anyone know the part number for the door latch microswitch?
4. I cannot replace the microswitch and I need to replace the entire latch mechanism, does anyone know the part number for the passenger-side VW part?

Thanks again for posting this information and thanks in advance for any assistance.

You can purchase the micro switches for the inner and outer door handles but Porsche doesn't sell just the micro switch within the door latch. It does sound like you need a new door latch assembly. I bought genuine Porsche door latches but found this website that talks about combining the boards of your existing door latch with a VW door latch assembly - I personally have not tried this...
https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/tech-tips/porsche-986-996-door-latch-replacement-with-vw-part/151397/page1/

Thanks for the response. I looked at that video earlier and unless I can find a replacement microswitch, it sounds like the VW part is the best option from a cost perspective. The video shows the process and part number for the driver's side mechanism. I have a problem on the passenger side. I've searched a few websites and I am not comfortable that I have identified the proper part for the passenger side. I will keep searching and if I find a part that looks promising I will post it here.

It appears that the part number for the driver's side on the VW is either 3D1837016A or 3D1837016AC

Maybe just start with tearing it down and floating new solder across the joints. I was surprised how flimsy the convertible top microswitch solder joints were when I did that.

Sent from my SM-G970U1 using Tapatalk

I found the VW part for about $32 shipped. The seller accepts returns.

When I receive the part, I will take the door apart and determine whether I can repair the existing mechanism. If I can repair it, I will return the part for a refund.

If I cannot repair the existing mechanism, I will either swap in the replacement mechanism or use it as a source of replacement components.

Of course, there is always the possibility that this is not the correct part and I will be back where I started.

For now, this seems like a low risk/high reward strategy.

Good suggestion. I think that will be the first option I use. If it doesn't work, I will have the replacement part available so that I can move on to other options without the need to disassemble the door panel again.

Seems like the mechanism is put together with Torx screws. I would open that thing and inspect everything.

Your description sounds like the is a bad solder connection or a bad or corroded contact. So i would inspect the wiring, the contacts and the solder points. Of course it can also be a bad micro switch.

If you have Piwis or Durametric you can check the M535 for DTCs so you know exactly what causes the double beep of the alarm horn.

Thank you for the suggestion. I do have a Durametric. I should have thought to use that earlier.

My replacement door latch assembly won't arrive until Tuesday or Wednesday. In the interim, I am continuing to study the replacement procedure and I found this video of a 996 owner with a similar problem: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JGbdWAljIJM

I hope that I can fix my problem for less money. Right now, I've spent about $7 or an 8mm triple square socket, $32 for the VW door latch assembly and $31 for the door-handle microswitch. (I'm wondering whether I wasted money on the microswitch.)

I haven't had time to work on my Boxster and don't expect to have time until next week. I was able to confirm that the window drops when I use both the inside and outside handle. I used a multimeter to check continuity in the door handle microswitch and it looks like it failed. (I'm not absolutely sure because the probe on my multimeter may be too thick to go far enough into the connector on the microswitch to make contact.)

I think the most likely scenario is that both the door microswitch and the door latch mechanism had faults. My VW door latch mechanism arrived in the mail and when I can set aside two or three hours I will check the system with my durametric. I will then most likely need to disassemble the door again and determine whether to replace or repair the door latch.

Fingers crossed. ;)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cNlw5TzKwvo

At about the 18-minute mark of the video, the technician arrives at the same conclusion as 78F350 regarding the need to modify (what I assume is) the VW part to avoid interference with the inner door structure of the Boxster.

I have some observations and questions based on my experience attempting to diagnose and repair my problems. My original problem was actually two problems. The first problem was that the window on the passenger side would not drop when I opened the door from the inside or the outside. The second problem is that the alarm beeps twice about 20 seconds after I lock the car and the red light on the dashboard would illuminate at random times. I noticed the two problems at about the same time and I thought they were caused by the same fault. Now I think that the timing was a coincidence and that I have two separate faults. I base this conclusion on the fact that replacing the door handle microswitch solved the problem with the window drop.

I originally thought that the passenger door lock mechanism was causing the problem with the alarm. I jumped to this conclusion because I pressed against the wiring for the door module when I replaced the door-handle microswitch and it caused the window to drop and the alarm to beep.
Now I am not certain. I scanned the alarm system with my Durametric and the system does not show any fault codes.

Undeterred, I decided to replace the door latch assembly with a VW part. (See post #25.) This did not work at all. I think the electronic components in the VW part are different from those in the Porsche part even though the mechanical part is almost identical. (I note that Pelican sells an URO assembly that does not work on cars with the alarm system, and that may be the issue since my car has the alarm system. https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/8N1837016C.htm?pn=8N1-837-016-C-M253&bt=Y&fs=0&SVSVSI=1044

I did disassemble my lock module and checked for loose solder joints. Although the solder seemed in good condition, I resoldered the connections. I also replaced the microswitch on my original door latch with the microswitch from the VW part. After reinstalling the latch, everything works, but I'm still experiencing the double beep about 20 seconds after locking the door.

I am now expanding my search for the problem. Possibilities include the sensors on:

1. Both doors
2. Both trunks
3. The fuel filler door
4. The center console lid
5. The top latch

I suspect the problem could also be caused by the switch on the dash or the immobilizer itself.

If anyone has suggestions for further trouble shooting, please feel free to post them.

Thanks,

http://986forum.com/forums/boxster-general-discussions/12094-horn-beeps-twice.html

This thread suggests that the problem may be caused by a wiring issue in the top latch.

I went down the same path - got everything working and still had the double beep (and the alarm would go off for no reason every once in a while). I replaced the ignition switch and the double beep went away and no faulty alarm every since. May want to replace it and cross it off the list. The Audi part is cheap - so why not?

Thanks for the suggestion. The fact that I don’t have any fault codes stored in the alarm system supports replacing the ignition switch as my next move. It is not my favorite job. (I replaced the switch a few years ago.). But, I am familiar with the procedure.

I replaced the ignition switch. As elav said, the part is relatively inexpensive. I have replaced it before and I must be learning from my experience. The job required about 30 minutes.

Unfortunately, I am still hearing two beeps about 15-20 seconds after I lock the door. My next step will be to check the top latch and see whether any of the wires have pulled loose. I will also scan the system again with my Durametric to see whether there are any codes.

On the plus side, the window on the passenger door drops when I pull the handle.

Yes, start checking all of the switches. If memory serves you need to check the front and rear trunks, gas flap door, radio, 2 micro switches for the convertible top, center console, door latch mechanisms and the micro switches for the inner and outer door handles. I think those are all of them - but going from memory.