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-   -   Convertible top relay (http://986forum.com/forums/boxster-general-discussions/79319-convertible-top-relay.html)

mtb50 01-09-2021 09:18 AM

Convertible top relay
 
Is there a way of testing a convertible top relay? I really don't want to be out the money for one if mine is good. Thanks

dghii 01-09-2021 09:51 AM

Maybe find another Box owner in your area and do a quick swap. Remember that earlier cars 97-99) had a different relay than newer 986's.

mtb50 01-09-2021 10:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dghii (Post 628857)
Maybe find another Box owner in your area and do a quick swap. Remember that earlier cars 97-99) had a different relay than newer 986's.

I failed to mention I have a 2000 model. I'm new here and don't know of anyone that has one. Thanks for the info

Homeoboxter 01-09-2021 10:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mtb50 (Post 628858)
I failed to mention I have a 2000 model. I'm new here and don't know of anyone that has one. Thanks for the info

What makes you think it may be faulty?

mtb50 01-09-2021 02:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Homeoboxter (Post 628859)
What makes you think it may be faulty?

First off window fuses are good. There's no hot pin at the window switch plug and wiring diagram shows hot wire going through fuse then to relay. Windows do nothing.

blue62 01-09-2021 02:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mtb50 (Post 628856)
Is there a way of testing a convertible top relay? I really don't want to be out the money for one if mine is good. Thanks

A typical automotive relay costs around $8.00 to $12.00
Not what I would call expensive in today's world.
If your still concerned about cost. look at all your relays in the car.
See if you can find one that is the same as the convertible top relay.
switch places with them and see if the other relay makes the top work.
If you cannot find another relay of the same type on the car, then Google
Testing automotive relays. You will find many many articles on testing relays.

mtb50 01-09-2021 05:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blue62 (Post 628870)
A typical automotive relay costs around $8.00 to $12.00
Not what I would call expensive in today's world.
If your still concerned about cost. look at all your relays in the car.
See if you can find one that is the same as the convertible top relay.
switch places with them and see if the other relay makes the top work.
If you cannot find another relay of the same type on the car, then Google
Testing automotive relays. You will find many many articles on testing relays.

OK thanks for the advice.

Homeoboxter 01-09-2021 06:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blue62 (Post 628870)
A typical automotive relay costs around $8.00 to $12.00
Not what I would call expensive in today's world.

It`s a double relay, I don`t think you can find a generic automotive relay that will be the same. A typical issue is related to the parking brake warning light switch, if that does not work, it will not tell the relay that the parking brake is on, and the top won`t work. Is the parking brake warning light on on the dashboard when you operate the parking brake?

mtb50 01-10-2021 05:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Homeoboxter (Post 628885)
It`s a double relay, I don`t think you can find a generic automotive relay that will be the same. A typical issue is related to the parking brake warning light switch, if that does not work, it will not tell the relay that the parking brake is on, and the top won`t work. Is the parking brake warning light on on the dashboard when you operate the parking brake?

Parking brake switch is ok because the top will go and down. This is good to mention this for those out there having problems with the top. Thanks

paulofto 01-10-2021 06:36 AM

The top relay is indeed not a typical relay. There is quite a complex circuit board in there that does a lot of figuring to operate the top based on a bunch of inputs. A new replacement will set you back a couple of hundred bucks but I obtained a used one from ‘itsnotanova’ to do the hack that allows you to operate while moving and not engaging the parking brake. He charged me $35.00 which was a bargain as far as I’m concerned. I got it because I wanted to keep my original relay unmodified so I could put it back should I want to return the car to stock.

PS I see you are in Texas. So is ‘itsnotanova’ Reach out to him and see if he has any more relays from the multitude of Boxster he has dismantled. I would let you try my spare but I’m about 1,400 miles and another country away from you.

blue62 01-10-2021 06:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Homeoboxter (Post 628885)
It`s a double relay, I don`t think you can find a generic automotive relay that will be the same. A typical issue is related to the parking brake warning light switch, if that does not work, it will not tell the relay that the parking brake is on, and the top won`t work. Is the parking brake warning light on on the dashboard when you operate the parking brake?

Thanks for schooling me on the relay.
Guess I should have looked one up first.
They sure want stupid money for that convertible top relay.
I wonder if that relay is common to other makes for a cheaper price??

paulofto 01-10-2021 06:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blue62 (Post 628904)
I wonder if that relay is common to other makes for a cheaper price??

It seems unlikely. It has a part number starting with 986 which means it isn’t even shared with the 996 and I can’t think of any other car that has the same kind of top set up that the Boxster has. Then again, I don’t know all the other soft tops that are out there.

blue62 01-10-2021 07:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by paulofto (Post 628905)
It seems unlikely. It has a part number starting with 986 which means it isn’t even shared with the 996 and I can’t think of any other car that has the same kind of top set up that the Boxster has. Then again, I don’t know all the other soft tops that are out there.

A friend of mine has a Audi Quattro some parts like a few micro switches some door lock part and other odds and ends are also common to my 986. I think there are also a few things on my 986 that are also common to VW. Seems that a switch or relay common to just one make and model would not be a very cost effective way to build a car.
But stranger things happen in this world:D

Zzorro 01-10-2021 08:33 AM

I bought one from a member on here a while back to troubleshoot some convertable top issues I was having. Turns out my relay was working fine. So now I have a spare I guess.

My convertable top issues are related to a damaged (got wet) CLU which I have yet to completely fix. But the CLU gives permissive to the various functions in the car. Presumably some of those are for the top as well.

Aaron did an excellent video on this issue. His videos are great.

https://youtu.be/xntJKWZpFac

On this video he shows a 3 page diagnosis page. I just screen clipped and printed it and followed that to confirm my issues are CLU related.

Good luck!

mtb50 01-10-2021 05:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by paulofto (Post 628903)
The top relay is indeed not a typical relay. There is quite a complex circuit board in there that does a lot of figuring to operate the top based on a bunch of inputs. A new replacement will set you back a couple of hundred bucks but I obtained a used one from ‘itsnotanova’ to do the hack that allows you to operate while moving and not engaging the parking brake. He charged me $35.00 which was a bargain as far as I’m concerned. I got it because I wanted to keep my original relay unmodified so I could put it back should I want to return the car to stock.

PS I see you are in Texas. So is ‘itsnotanova’ Reach out to him and see if he has any more relays from the multitude of Boxster he has dismantled. I would let you try my spare but I’m about 1,400 miles and another country away from you.

I really appreciate the offer but I'll come up with one some way.

mtb50 01-10-2021 05:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zzorro (Post 628914)
I bought one from a member on here a while back to troubleshoot some convertable top issues I was having. Turns out my relay was working fine. So now I have a spare I guess.

My convertable top issues are related to a damaged (got wet) CLU which I have yet to completely fix. But the CLU gives permissive to the various functions in the car. Presumably some of those are for the top as well.

Aaron did an excellent video on this issue. His videos are great.

https://youtu.be/xntJKWZpFac

On this video he shows a 3 page diagnosis page. I just screen clipped and printed it and followed that to confirm my issues are CLU related.

Good luck!

I would offer to buy your spare but I need one from 2000 to 2004

particlewave 01-10-2021 07:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mtb50 (Post 628868)
First off window fuses are good. There's no hot pin at the window switch plug and wiring diagram shows hot wire going through fuse then to relay. Windows do nothing.

Someone sent you on a wild goose chase.

I’ve been watching your posts. If you want to fix your window problem, start at the immobilizer. Best of luck. :)

mtb50 01-11-2021 10:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by particlewave (Post 628927)
Someone sent you on a wild goose chase.

I’ve been watching your posts. If you want to fix your window problem, start at the immobilizer. Best of luck. :)

Ok so what do I need to check on the immobillizer? Here is were I'm at . There are 3 pins in the middle of the switch. A BRN/GRN/BLK wire coming from the top relay should be hot and it's not. I've gone to the middle pin with a hot wire and the windows go up and down. The top relay does power the top but not the windows I'd appreciate any help

Zzorro 01-11-2021 01:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mtb50 (Post 628944)
Ok so what do I need to check on the immobillizer? Here is were I'm at . There are 3 pins in the middle of the switch. A BRN/GRN/BLK wire coming from the top relay should be hot and it's not. I've gone to the middle pin with a hot wire and the windows go up and down. The top relay does power the top but not the windows I'd appreciate any help

CLU = Central locking unit = Immobilizer. To troubleshoot the convertable top electronics have a look at that YouTube video I sent. That diagnostic sheet he references is a full diagnosis.

78F350 01-11-2021 02:34 PM

That same connection that goes to the top relay from the switch also connects to the CLU connector 1, pin 18. You can check it for continuity and/or +12v. Once you have done that advance to the next question.

The top relay diagram:
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1610407672.jpg

Where it goes on the top relay plug:
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...007e6fb5_c.jpg

To the CLU...
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...d8075aae_c.jpg

what it look like on the CLU plug:
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...998f7265_c.jpg

mtb50 01-11-2021 02:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zzorro (Post 628954)
CLU = Central locking unit = Immobilizer. To troubleshoot the convertable top electronics have a look at that YouTube video I sent. That diagnostic sheet he references is a full diagnosis.

That was a good video only problem is that my 2000 top relay is different than the 1998 that he showed but I appreciate it.

mtb50 01-11-2021 02:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 78F350 (Post 628964)
That same connection that goes to the top relay from the switch also connects to the CLU connector 1, pin 18. You can check it for continuity and/or +12v. Once you have done that advance to the next question.

The top relay diagram:
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1610407672.jpg

Where it goes on the top relay plug:
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...007e6fb5_c.jpg

To the CLU...
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...d8075aae_c.jpg

what it look like on the CLU plug:
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...998f7265_c.jpg

I had the seat out today and the fuse is ok. tomorrow I'll do what you showed here and get back to you. Thanks

78F350 01-11-2021 02:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mtb50 (Post 628966)
I had the seat out today and the fuse is ok. tomorrow I'll do what you showed here and get back to you. Thanks

NOTE: If you turn the key to the on position with the seat wire harness disconnected, it will cause the airbag caution light to come on and it will need to be reset with a capable diagnostic tool/scanner.

mtb50 01-11-2021 03:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mtb50 (Post 628966)
I had the seat out today and the fuse is ok. tomorrow I'll do what you showed here and get back to you. Thanks

As you have pointed to me the relay plug 11 is not hot no 12v. Only one I found hot was 23 witch I thank would explain the power top to work. I'll check the clu 18 when i have more time. Thanks for your time.

78F350 01-11-2021 04:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mtb50 (Post 628971)
... I'll check the clu 18 when i have more time. Thanks for your time.

As pictured with the blue connector, you can check continuity, but the +12v will be on the module pin, not the connector.

I would test continuity from the window switch to the CLU connector (18).
If that is good and the car runs (if it runs the CLU is powered and at least partially functioning), then the problem is internal in the CLU.

Often the CLUs are damaged by water intrusion. It may be visible, or it may not be. Mild corrosion can often be cleaned to restore function. You can find lots of past discussion of the issues. Most of those posts will call it the immobilizer rather than CLU.

Here's an example of how I'd search: https://duckduckgo.com/?t=ffab&q=site%3A986forum.com+immobilizer+wet&ia=w eb

mtb50 01-11-2021 04:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 78F350 (Post 628973)
As pictured with the blue connector, you can check continuity, but the +12v will be on the module pin, not the connector.

I would test continuity from the window switch to the CLU connector (18).
If that is good and the car runs (if it runs the CLU is powered and at least partially functioning), then the problem is internal in the CLU.

Often the CLUs are damaged by water intrusion. It may be visible, or it may not be. Mild corrosion can often be cleaned to restore function. You can find lots of past discussion of the issues. Most of those posts will call it the immobilizer rather than CLU.

Here's an example of how I'd search: https://duckduckgo.com/?t=ffab&q=site%3A986forum.com+immobilizer+wet&ia=w eb

I'll test continuity tomorrow. I'm not clear on what module pin will be 12v

mtb50 01-12-2021 06:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 78F350 (Post 628973)
As pictured with the blue connector, you can check continuity, but the +12v will be on the module pin, not the connector.

I would test continuity from the window switch to the CLU connector (18).
If that is good and the car runs (if it runs the CLU is powered and at least partially functioning), then the problem is internal in the CLU.

Often the CLUs are damaged by water intrusion. It may be visible, or it may not be. Mild corrosion can often be cleaned to restore function. You can find lots of past discussion of the issues. Most of those posts will call it the immobilizer rather than CLU.

Here's an example of how I'd search: https://duckduckgo.com/?t=ffab&q=site%3A986forum.com+immobilizer+wet&ia=w eb

The continuity is good from window switch to CLU connector 18. Car starts and runs OK. I'm not showing 12 v at pin 11 on relay.

78F350 01-12-2021 07:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mtb50 (Post 628994)
The continuity is good from window switch to CLU connector 18. Car starts and runs OK. I'm not showing 12 v at pin 11 on relay.

That isolates the problem to within the CLU module.
I'll grab a picture of the CLU from somewhere and post more... Then I'm doing a timing belt and water pump replacement on my Toyota Sequoia for the rest of the day and not playing with Boxsters.

78F350 01-12-2021 08:29 AM

Here's a badly corroded CLU. This one is not repairable, but yours is in much better shape if the car still runs. It is easy to remove and open up to see the circuit board. There are two forum members that professionally repair these things ECU Doctors and Qmulus.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...3bfc1a7f_c.jpg

You may be able to get yours working by cleaning corrosion, or it may need to be repaired/replaced. I suspect that you have a stuck relay on your circuit board. It's possible that you can free it up by gently tapping on the little black cubed shaped things (TYCO) on the circuit board. My preferred tool for tapping on relays is the handle of a #2 Phillips screwdriver. YMMV and if a relay is stuck now it will probably stick again.

That's all I've got for today, but the rest of the forum is standing by to assist. Good luck.

mtb50 01-12-2021 09:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by particlewave (Post 628927)
Someone sent you on a wild goose chase.

I’ve been watching your posts. If you want to fix your window problem, start at the immobilizer. Best of luck. :)

Your were definitely right about starting at the CLU. 78F350 has been a lot of help as well I've cleaned the board with alcohol and will see what happens Thanks

986 Boxster 01-12-2021 11:28 AM

Guy`s I don`t want to sidetrack this thread, but I`m looking for a used convertible top relay that works on a 2001 Boxster to modify so it works as smart top relay. If you have one sitting around that you don`t need and want to sell it, let me know the price. Sorry for side tracking the thread :o
I have an ad on the classifieds section that you can respond to if you have one for sale or know someone that has one for sale, thank you.

mtb50 01-13-2021 02:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 78F350 (Post 628999)
Here's a badly corroded CLU. This one is not repairable, but yours is in much better shape if the car still runs. It is easy to remove and open up to see the circuit board. There are two forum members that professionally repair these things ECU Doctors and Qmulus.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...3bfc1a7f_c.jpg

You may be able to get yours working by cleaning corrosion, or it may need to be repaired/replaced. I suspect that you have a stuck relay on your circuit board. It's possible that you can free it up by gently tapping on the little black cubed shaped things (TYCO) on the circuit board. My preferred tool for tapping on relays is the handle of a #2 Phillips screwdriver. YMMV and if a relay is stuck now it will probably stick again.

That's all I've got for today, but the rest of the forum is standing by to assist. Good luck.

I'm new to this forum and not having any luck on getting in touch with ECU doctors or QMULUS. I reallly would appreciate it.


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