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Old 02-25-2007, 10:23 AM   #1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RandallNeighbour
Hydraulics? I may be totally off on this, but I don't think there's any hydraulic parts in the top mechanism. Get a second opinion before you shell out $800 to that mechanic and ask him to show you exactly what's broken before he replaces it.
I don't remember if that's exactly what he called it... it's been about 2 months since then. The two controls that handle the movement on either side, something about a ball bearing had come out, or worn down and caused it to malfunction.

I trust these guys 100% (they solely work on higher end vehicles, and I know them personally) so I never question their work. They will definitely show me what all needs fixing before I okay it. I just wanted them to do a quick diagnostic on it and give me a rough estimate of cost before I stored it.

I'm not worried in the least
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Old 02-25-2007, 10:36 AM   #2
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It sure is nice to have a mechanic you trust! I just get the chills when I think about repairing a non-engine issue for $800! It's like the tops on our cars are another engine altogether when it comes to repairs and worries.

Just to increase anyone's knowledge base reading this thread, there's a central motor in the back, just ahead of your third brake light. It twists two cables left and right that go to the sides of the top just above the exterior vents (driver's side intake and passenger side fan grills, but on the inside of the top area). These cables go into a transmission on both sides that both raises and lowers the top and moves the clamshell up and out of the way. It's really ingenious.

The loud POP could easily be that twisting cable coming out of the motor or one side of the transmission. The key is not to do a lot more damage by continuing to press the button after you hear a loud noise like this.

Or, the pop could be a part near the transmission with a ball joint on the end of it that is known to break due to it being made out of plastic and usually under a lot of stress.

Or, a third possibility is that the transmission fell apart inside and needs replacing.

Replacing the parts isn't that hard from the repair manual. The hardest part (which requires some saavy or experience) is timing the top again so the left and right go up and down at the same time and there's no twisting of the top or clamshell.

I sure wish our cars had simple top components or they were designed in such a way as to be far more reliable over the course of a boxster's useful lifetime.

Last edited by RandallNeighbour; 02-25-2007 at 10:39 AM.
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Old 02-25-2007, 10:56 AM   #3
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Man... I think when I get my top replaced, I might get the cables and have the shop replace the cables while they're in there! Might be a good idea to prevent breakage and costly repairs!
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Old 02-25-2007, 11:11 AM   #4
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If the cables are the newer ones with a diamond pattern embedded in the plastic sheath surrounding the cable (which is reinforcement) you're probably good for a long time cable-wise.

Heat issues stretched the first batch on 97-99 models. The cable inside is made of steel and doesn't stretch, but the outer sheath did and that caused it to stretch and disengage from the motor or transmission and caused all sorts of $$$$ problems.

Not a bad idea to have them inspected though... they're not expensive, but if they are removed, re-timing the top may cost you some extra money.
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Old 02-25-2007, 12:32 PM   #5
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Where could I check the cables? If I have the 'good' ones, then I'll forego new ones. I have to get into the engine soon to remove and check/clean my MAF, so I'll be putting the top in service mode anyway.
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