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Old 06-22-2020, 12:15 PM   #1
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Thanks everyone for the help it looks as if my very cheap (£14) code reader isn't going to be any use on this. The temp is about right for my car (runs hot in traffic or if not on open road) but I have not noticed the side engine cooling fan starting up for ages.

Strange thing is the car is running exactly as it always has and I got it home after only 4 miles (to test it and warm it up) thinking it is going right.

A contact of mine (ex Porsche engine builder) in UK suggested that there are other green rubber items it may be; such as spark plug tube seals or 2 sump round cavity things and these can get broken up?
One of mine did have a leak and 2 tubes came out on the coils doing a spark plug change recently.
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Old 06-22-2020, 12:38 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by Homeoboxter View Post
Agreed. In most European cars fan switch turns on at 92 C and off at 82 C, so at idle or in heavy traffic coolant temperature varies between these two values.

Foxwell looks like a good deal. What`s the advantage of Durametric over this? I`ll need to buy one soon too.
I own both.
Personally I don't see that Durametric has an advantage over the Foxwell.
The Foxwell will do everything that the Durametric enthusiast model will do.
My Foxwell was around $175.00 shipped.
I think Durametric is around $350.00 for the enthusiast model and around $750.00 for the professional model.

Durametric: you need a laptop
It is Porsche specific=it only reads Porsche
The enthusiast model is limited to use on Three vin numbers
some info is a little difficult to follow such as the way RPM ranges are laid out for fuel trims

Foxwell:
Standard scanner= no laptop needed
it comes loaded with what ever manufacture specific program you choose
You can add additional manufactures for around $60.00 per manufacture.
Your not limited to how many different Vins you connect to.
You can do the normal scans, live data, freeze frame, graphs etc. on any OBDII compliant system.
You only need manufacture specific programs to access manufacture specific codes or functions.

Screen layouts are of course different between the two.
Durametric is typical computer layout with various folders
Foxwell is typical OBDII scanner layout.
I think Foxwell is a very good buy for the money

Last edited by blue62; 06-22-2020 at 02:19 PM.
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Old 06-22-2020, 03:23 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by blue62 View Post
I own both.
Personally I don't see that Durametric has an advantage over the Foxwell.
The Foxwell will do everything that the Durametric enthusiast model will do.
My Foxwell was around $175.00 shipped.
I think Durametric is around $350.00 for the enthusiast model and around $750.00 for the professional model.

Durametric: you need a laptop
It is Porsche specific=it only reads Porsche
The enthusiast model is limited to use on Three vin numbers
some info is a little difficult to follow such as the way RPM ranges are laid out for fuel trims

Foxwell:
Standard scanner= no laptop needed
it comes loaded with what ever manufacture specific program you choose
You can add additional manufactures for around $60.00 per manufacture.
Your not limited to how many different Vins you connect to.
You can do the normal scans, live data, freeze frame, graphs etc. on any OBDII compliant system.
You only need manufacture specific programs to access manufacture specific codes or functions.

Screen layouts are of course different between the two.
Durametric is typical computer layout with various folders
Foxwell is typical OBDII scanner layout.
I think Foxwell is a very good buy for the money
Thanks for the useful info . I think I`m gonna get one.
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Old 06-23-2020, 01:46 AM   #4
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That is interesting because it does mean you can have green bits in the filter and still everything still works - although it seems your green bits are sealant used in the engine rebuild.

What I find annoying is that with these cases (where an engine may be very close to the point of imploding) there is no engine warning light or codes coming up to indicate this. I guess it is just the same as in a car that has a timing belt failure.

I looked at the tensioner cylinder design and it basically just actuates slightly (in and out) in a barrel with seals designed to stop engine oil getting in (presumably) and is activated by the electrical solenoid to make a mechanical movement to tension or release tension. IMO even with the seals broken it probably would still operate (and like the dreaded IMS bearing, when the seals fail be lubricated by oil not grease)? If the solenoid goes then it wont work and you'd get a code fault? But if the seals break down the engine has no idea and the tensioner barrel, being metal can just continue to function and the system doesn't detect any malfunction (because it opens and closes but is more lubricated or the tolerance is such that the external engine oil has no effect. Is the varioCam tensioner a sealed unit or does it take oil from the engine? Guess the seals are there to maintain the internal pressure of the tensioner and without them the power of the pressure is reduced or limited? So many questions...

The fact that Porsche changed the system on the 2002 facelift version to use the VW Audi one is indicative they decide the new one was better or cheaper.
Also, I wonder whether the varioCam units are the same design on the earlier 911 engines and have they ever failed?

Hartech, (engine builders in UK) said when I spoke to them that the real issue was getting an engine failure by the particles blocking the oil pump feed and that an engine flush or sump removal may be a good idea.
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Old 06-23-2020, 02:08 AM   #5
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I’ve been following this thread and good I also have Foxwell NT520 but never really use all the features except when I have to fix my ABS. But was able to help friends with their check engine and obdii functions for smog purposes.

Like the previous members said, why is it with smog related issue, cars will trigger a check engine even with just small issue, but any deviation from variocam or tensioner that can cause engine failure/catastrophe will not give any check engine. Smog requirements is more priority but engine failure is not, from car manufacturing design?

Last edited by ndfrigi; 06-23-2020 at 09:34 AM.
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Old 06-23-2020, 09:18 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by DaveBBOXSTER View Post
That is interesting because it does mean you can have green bits in the filter and still everything still works - although it seems your green bits are sealant used in the engine rebuild.

What I find annoying is that with these cases (where an engine may be very close to the point of imploding) there is no engine warning light or codes coming up to indicate this. I guess it is just the same as in a car that has a timing belt failure.

I looked at the tensioner cylinder design and it basically just actuates slightly (in and out) in a barrel with seals designed to stop engine oil getting in (presumably) and is activated by the electrical solenoid to make a mechanical movement to tension or release tension. IMO even with the seals broken it probably would still operate (and like the dreaded IMS bearing, when the seals fail be lubricated by oil not grease)? If the solenoid goes then it wont work and you'd get a code fault? But if the seals break down the engine has no idea and the tensioner barrel, being metal can just continue to function and the system doesn't detect any malfunction (because it opens and closes but is more lubricated or the tolerance is such that the external engine oil has no effect. Is the varioCam tensioner a sealed unit or does it take oil from the engine? Guess the seals are there to maintain the internal pressure of the tensioner and without them the power of the pressure is reduced or limited? So many questions...

The fact that Porsche changed the system on the 2002 facelift version to use the VW Audi one is indicative they decide the new one was better or cheaper.
Also, I wonder whether the varioCam units are the same design on the earlier 911 engines and have they ever failed?

Hartech, (engine builders in UK) said when I spoke to them that the real issue was getting an engine failure by the particles blocking the oil pump feed and that an engine flush or sump removal may be a good idea.
You may wanna reread my comment #11. The actuator is operated by oil pressure, not by the solenoid, the solenoid operates a valve only that channels oil flow to the piston that advances the timing of the intake camshaft. If the solenoid is faulty, probably the ECU will see that and may trigger the check engine light. I`m just guessing here. If the actuator is not working because it can`t hold the pressure, then you won`t have cam advancement, but your engine is not in danger, not like when timing gets messed up. Just it won`t perform as it should at a certain rpm range. The seals are there to hold the pressure, not for stopping engine oil getting into the actuator. I agree, pulling the sump is probably a good idea to clean the rest of the debris off the oil pickup strainer.
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Old 06-24-2020, 01:11 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by Homeoboxter View Post
You may wanna reread my comment #11. The actuator is operated by oil pressure, not by the solenoid, the solenoid operates a valve only that channels oil flow to the piston that advances the timing of the intake camshaft. If the solenoid is faulty, probably the ECU will see that and may trigger the check engine light. I`m just guessing here. If the actuator is not working because it can`t hold the pressure, then you won`t have cam advancement, but your engine is not in danger, not like when timing gets messed up. Just it won`t perform as it should at a certain rpm range. The seals are there to hold the pressure, not for stopping engine oil getting into the actuator. I agree, pulling the sump is probably a good idea to clean the rest of the debris off the oil pickup strainer.
Yes, Thanks - I did read the point about the actuators working on oil pressure not sure if the unit is sealed or taking engine oil to operated I guess it is? I took the car out yesterday for a 20 mile test run and it ran impressively; quick revs response and power and just seemed about right (according to my previous experience of how it drives) I was cautious at first as I don't want to ruin my engine but overall it was good. I saw an ad for the full kit of new timing chains, cylinders and tensioners online for $3,500 that is a very expensive set of parts to replace!
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Old 06-24-2020, 02:42 AM   #8
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Found this link with drawings of the entire Porsche variocam system and how it works;

https://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/557016-how-variocam-and-variocamplus-works-a-primer.html
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Old 06-24-2020, 10:30 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by DaveBBOXSTER View Post
Found this link with drawings of the entire Porsche variocam system and how it works;

https://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/557016-how-variocam-and-variocamplus-works-a-primer.html
Pretty cool, haven`t seen this yet, thanks!
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Old 06-24-2020, 01:26 PM   #10
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Found this link with drawings of the entire Porsche variocam system and how it works;

https://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/557016-how-variocam-and-variocamplus-works-a-primer.html
Just looked at the link and it got me thinking. EDIT: Knowing that the two cam actuators are different, is it possible that only one has a tendency to fail? Or this failure is rather model dependent?

I looked through a couple of threads on this matter and they were all about 2.7 engines.

I split one actuator from bank 4-6 (2.5 base), and it`s clearly different from the one pictured on the previous page in this thread (2.7). If you go back in the thread you can see both side by side. Mine had no problem with the large green O-ring, does not even have it. So is it because it`s model specific (2.5 vs 2.7) or because the one that usually fails correspond to bank 1-3? Can anyone confirm either this or the other possibility?

Last edited by Homeoboxter; 06-25-2020 at 08:05 AM.
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