Should I convert my top to manual operation?
 

I've been dealing with an annoyingly intermittent top on my '99 Boxster and it's gotten to the point where I never lower it anymore because I'm afraid it will get stuck down. Or, when I do try it, it often doesn't work to begin with

I've inspected the usual suspects:

Latch microswitch seems ok - windows roll down when I unlatch
Handbrake microswitch seems ok - light illuminates on the dash
I've taken out the relay and banged it on the ground a few times
Fuses seem ok

I press the switch and nothing happens at all.

Kind of annoyed by it, and have seen how simple the top is to operate manually in some videos. My questions are these:

If you've converted to manual, do you have any regrets?
Is it easy to convert it back to automatic operation in the future?

I have done it temporarily on a couple cars. No harm done and it makes the car enjoyable until you have the time and inspiration to fix it correctly.

One of the "push rods" for my top was bent (by a previous owner) and I tried straightening it but it would still pop off the ball pin. So I just removed both push rods. The clamshell is still powered so I don't have to worry about it rattling around. Sounds like your situation is different if you can't get anything to work. No regrets, if someone wants to fiddle with it someday it is reversible.

Just made a first attempt at disconnecting the ball joints. I can feel where the clamshell pushrod connects to the transmission crank arm, but I cannot locate the plastic ball joint (top connection) to remove it. I felt around for like 10 minutes and couldn't locate it. It seems like its accessible when the top is down (per the manual)..unfortunately my top is stuck in the up position. Has anyone figured a way to remove the ball joint without lowering the top?

I think this one is my most popular video:
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/QOLhAR8bLio" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

I removed the bolt that holds the arms onto the transmission after I gave up on the ball.

In another case, I used a long screwdriver to pop the locking clip off of the clamshell. I'll see if I have a pic that shows that.

I had some pics on my computer. This shows the clip that can be removed with a long screwdriver. First pic is looking back, over the engine. second pic is looking forward with the clamshell slightly raised.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1592171671.jpg

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1592171689.jpg

Ha! I already saw your video...I was hoping that I could avoid doing this as it seems like more faffing about than the ball joint. But it appears that Porsche did not design the top to be easily lowered when it's not working! :cheers:

Well this is discouraging. I don't have a 19mm socket, and try as I might I cannot find the ball joint.

What's even more discouraging is that the whole reason I'm trying to operate the top is to get to the engine, so that I can replace the MAF, so that I can smog the car, so I can DRIVE the car.

So because Porsche decided that the only way to access the engine is for a system made of multiple fuses, multiple microswitches that are prone to failure, a complex relay prone to failure, and a complex electric motor drive system with various linkages prone to failure, all to be working 100%, my car is effectively undrivable. There isn't a backup plan. Why did anyone think that was a good idea? Even AUDI convertible tops have mechanical top operation backups. Why Porsche? So do I spend $200 to get a relay on the off chance that it might be the problem? Pay $200 just to access the engine. Unbelievable.

One simple thing to try. Your car is a 1999 and in the 1999 that I used to make that video, the problem ended up being the *second* micro-switch in the top latch. The later models have one switch up there, but I found out that the '99s have two. One drops the windows and the other allows the top to operate. In mine, the plastic that holds the micro switches in place had come a little loose.

With the brake set and top unlatched, try poking a finger in the top latch and pressing/moving it around while holding the top switch to open. It's a long shot, but costs nothing and needs no tools.

No joy. Nothing happens, no light dimming, no clicking, nada.

The top is easy to operate manually. The PO converted it before I bought it but have me all the parts. I recently got the top working again.

I have a 98, so assuming the details are the same. There are two more micro switches in mine. One behind the drivers side (NA spec car) left shoulder. And one that senses of the clamshell is closed. My microswitches at the latch by the windshield was in good shape.

The clamshell microswitch was actually dislodged from the bracket that holds the top drive motor. I reaffixed this switch. That was part of the problem.

The switch over my shoulder was what was preventing the roof from operating properly. Have a posting on here with it. Strange issue. Turns out that all I needed to do was adjust everything properly again. Note that older boxsters have this microswitch. Newer ones have the micro switches built into the top transmission. Also, the older boxster transmission main drive gears are 1/2 moon gear, as opposed to full rounds gear (if that makes sense). It relies on the microswitch measuring the tops location to control the drive properly. If the roof isn't adjusted properly and microswitch does not switch the motor off, then the transmission gear could turn too far and be "out of teeth". Then nothing happens even if you hear the motor turn.

Also, check both your drive cables from the motor to the transmission. Mine were good. Also check the linkages. The ball joint on the end of one of the arms is a weak link. Cheap replacements are available..

It's way harder to explain than it actually is. I just started taking stuff apart and figuring it out. Seeing I was in manual anyways, I didn't see the risks.

PM me if you want more details.

Can you be more specific about the "over the shoulder" switch? Any pictures? I can't find anything about it.

i converted to manual last year and never looked back. I can drop the top in 5 seconds. NOTE: the clamshell "bounces" sometimes over bumps which is annoying and jarring. I am considering some soft rubber back there to soften the noise, but would like to hear some suggestions from others.

for those that removed everything from the mechanism, did you take any actions to keep the clamshell from lifting?

I keep seeing this video on youtube:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5dsoV3tNz_M

It's a 987, yes, but it seems to solve the clamshell issue. The cars are very very similar, I wonder if this could work for a 986?

I'm going to buy a 19mm socket today and go to town on those transmission bolts.

here's a translated page (original is in Japanese) on the instructions from that video: https://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&tab=TT&sl=auto&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F% 2Fmonoblogue.nikomat.org%2Farticle%2F184996223.htm l

On my 986, I don’t need to open the trunk, I grab the front of the clamshell and lift. So much easier then parking brake, waiting, etc. etc.


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I rebuilt and lubricated mine over the winter. It works better than ever probably like when new. It was not that complicated or expensive. If you were going to buy another boxster what would you rather have the factory functional push button top. Or some 50 year old British sports car version

I converted to manual operation 2 weeks ago. The top on my 2000 S was stuck in the closed/up position. I used a 19mm socket and separated the bracket from the transmission on both sides. It wasn't easy. Opening and closing the top is easy in the manual mode. I have a top dash light that is staying on. My next project is to jump out the light. As for now, I am enjoying driving with the top down. What I do in the future remains undecided. Not sure that I wish to spend the money to replace a transmission and bent push rod.

Video here. About 1/2 way thru your get an idea of where the switch is.
https://youtu.be/57yfndEJDsY

The switch is accessible by removing the interior piece just behind the door. The switch has a "leaver" and rides the top frame as it moves. Good picture of it here.
http://986forum.com/forums/boxster-general-discussions/53156-convertible-top-install-problems-help.html

If you have a later model Boxster, you don't have this switch. This is for older model boxsters. Not certain of what year they made the switch.

Oh, I understand this. However, my annoyance with the electric top overrides my concern for selling to the next guy. Thankfully, the modification seems totally reversible.

Just to update this, I ended up taking the car to my indie to diagnose the top. He was as stumped as I was and everything seemed to be working. A new relay didn't even fix the problem. He ended up taking it to another shop who discovered it was a fault in the alarm control module. They were able to reflash it or something and now the top works as expected. Bizarre.

Follow up #2. Oops! Top stopped working again. This time stuck down. And the Porsche continues to be the least reliable vehicle I've ever owned (Shocking when that list include a rotary-powered Mazda 15 years older with twice as many miles, a Merkur XR4ti, and a handful of 90s Fords).

I've gotten as far as dropping the windshield header microswitch assembly, but I cannot for the life of me disconnect the switch itself from its wiring. The connector does not seem to budge. Has anyone encountered this? Help?

Another update:

So I managed to get the microswitch assembly out and tested the continuity of the two switches in there. The first-detent switch didn't seem to be working. I noticed the soldered contacts were pretty corroded so I scraped them off a bit. Got it to the point where it was registering on my multi-meter when the first switch was activated. Put the switch back in the car and....surprise! The top began to function. I have a new switch on the way, so I'll probably keep it as a spare until this one starts acting up again.

FINAL UPDATE I SWEAR.

Old switch worked...then didn't work, then worked again. Ugh. Thankfully, the new switch arrived early so I installed it and, fingers crossed, things seem to be working just fine.

For posterity:

If you are experiencing top failure to open or failure to close and when you pull open your top latch and the following is true:
-Windows go down normally
-E brake light is illuminated on the dash
-All fuses are in good condition
-Top relay is known to be in functioning order

It could very well be the microswitch in the windshield header that has failed even if your windows go down when you unlatch the top! I got off on the wrong track because I assumed that if the windows dropped, the latch microswitch must be OK. Remember that there are TWO microswitches in the header latch - one to drop the windows, and the other to send signal to the control unit that the top is unlatched/ready to retract. In my case, it is evident that the second microswitch or one of the soldered connections in the assembly failed.

Thank you for letting us know what ended up being your problem. I hate when people start a thread and don't let people know what ended up being the problem.
On that note, I converted to a manual top and love it. There's an in dept thread about converting to manual somewhere in this forum. You can probably find it easily through the search function