Coolant level help.
 

I searched but not much success. Got a coolant light flashing so checked the level pretty low, could see the bottom of the tank, cold, mall amount of coolant around cap. Carpet seemed dry but haven't driven for a few days. Popped of the cover and more coolant on underside. Filled with distilled water took 3/4 of a gallon to get into level on tank. Started car light off so alls great. Pulled up the bleeding valve thing and sounded like flushing a mini toilet. Swish gurgle gurgle, level.back like before light on. Removed carpet, small amount of water in front of the tank but no where else.
Opinions? Thanks in advance
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What kind of shape is your cap in? O ring? Cross threaded? Rev -04? The bleeder valve has two o rings that can be replaced. IIRC there have been instances of mini cracks that leak only at operating temps.

It looks OK but ordered a new cap just in case. Is there a problem adding more distilled water until I figure out what I'm dealing with? I'd like to get it to a safe level and let it get to operating temperature.
Then I have to figure out what coolant I need.

In addition to the new cap... check the two O-rings on the bleeder valve.

Good luck! :cheers:

How old is the coolant tank ? They are known to develop cracks and leak .

I don't know how old it is. It looks pretty good so I doubt it's the original one. Ran until temp got up to 180, nothing, no leaks. I know it's too early to tell but I'm wondering if the cap wasn't tight or cross threaded. I'm gonna take it for a limited ride tomorrow and see what happens.
Any recommendations on anti freeze?

Hope it is not flowing into the oil or a cylinder!

The oil looks fine. That was the first thing I checked. 🤞

Been there, done that. Cross threaded and lost a bunch of coolant. Readjusted the cap and never had a problem again. As for the coolant itself, get the real thing from Porsche. Expensive but how often do you buy it?

I've had two caps go bad, and they were both Porsche caps. Let's hope that is the problem!

So twice now my coolant light was flashing. The first time I added a little distilled water. This time I pulled back the carpet and support panel under the tank to find it wet.

So kick me in the nutz..... last year I did the clutch and IMSB. I should have also done the coolant tank as a preventative/because I am there measure. This repair is going to have to wait with the car parked. I simply cannot tackle it until recovering further from this stroke.

It's leaking from the coolant tank. Last year mine did EXACTLY the same....turns out to be tiny "spider" cracks along the bottom where you can't see until the tank is removed. (my tank looked pretty good visually).

The spider cracks EXPAND under pressure once the car's coolant comes up to temperature. I suppose a pressure tester would tell for sure. In my case I removed everything from the trunk (floor carpet, side carpet trim, and trunk floor boards). A small pool of coolant would collect in between the trunks ribs and eventually deposit drops on my garage floor. Then I took a couple of blue paper shop towels, folded them and squeezed them between the trunk floor and the tank's bottom. Then drove the car for about 20-30 minutes so the coolant would get nice and hot and tank pressure would build.......after shut down I checked the paper towels and they were wet from the tank's bottom and spider cracks.

$800 in parts and my "indi" Porsche mechanic's labor took care of it. Last summer was an expensive Boxster summer.....coolant tank replacement = $800 and water pump replacement = $950...........................but it's my fun summer "toy".

Good luck

I'm getting the feeling you're probably right. Was gonna take a drive to check some more today but leaving it till tomorrow.
Didn't feel like dealing with it today 😐