Perfect! Now I know what to start looking for. I really appreciate you taking the time to walk me through this stuff!

Happy to help, but I'm a somewhat informed amateur at best when it comes to this stuff. There are a couple of *somewhat* helpful discussions at DYIMobileAudio.com that I've come across:

This one introduced using the Morel CAW 538s as a replacement speaker:

https://www.diymobileaudio.com/threads/turning-a-boxster-bose-enclosure-into-a-real-sub.135149/

This one discusses other possible aftermarket speakers beyond the Morels:

https://www.diymobileaudio.com/threads/please-help-design-a-sound-system-for-porsche-boxster.156035/

Thanks Spyder Man. I didn't do the math surrounding the Morel replacement, but I can see now that the pair of CAW 538s are sized correctly for the Bose box. They really do sound pretty good. Also, Rod at California Audio Innovations (CAI) has a wealth of knowledge about car audio for Porsche. His website is good, but I spent a bit of time talking to him via phone. He's really helpful.

I spoke with Rod prior to doing my upgrade for the head unit and dash/door speakers. Super helpful. I may have to reach out to him for recommendations for 4 ohm drivers to put in the bose box if the link above from Spyder_man doesn't pan out. As much as I want to go with the tried and true method, I can't see flipping that 1.300 for the 2.300 AND dropping another bunch of money on the Morel 8ohm drivers.

Now that I know what I'm shooting for regarding vented enclosure specs it should narrow the field a bit.

I could sell the 1.300 and the 2.300 is a direct swap, but that will be my last resort. Which usually means... I'll be doing that in a month. :eek:

Happy to help. Perhaps you two can help me. Approximately how many ft of power/ground wire and speaker wire did you end up using with your stereo overhauls?


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That's easy!

Ground wire? about 5'. (4g)
Power wire about 5' (4g)

Speaker wire was 20' for the front. 15' for the rear box.

With the fronts, I ran separate wires to the 3.5" drivers in the dash. Used factory wires for the tweeters and doors. I used factory wires for the tweeters in the Bose box and ran new wire for the drivers in the box. Remember that the drivers in my box are run in mono (one pair of wires).

Perfect! Did you split the 4g wire with distribution blocks or just run separate runs of wire from the battery to each amp?


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Not going to be much help with this question. I had a local installer do the work for me. I just don't have the time to do it, and they have a great reputation for great work.

I did all of the research and told them what I wanted. They delivered quality results. I'm super pleased.

Ahh... Good call out. I did split the 4g with Stinger distribution blocks.

Positive side went from battery to fuse block and then just before the dash grommet I split the positive feed. Same with negative.

I would actually say 8' for both positive and negative wires. Plus you will need 12 or so feet of blue wire for remote turn on.

Great intel. So are you routing two or four 4g wires through the grommet between the battery bay and the trunk where the amps are? Just trying to figure out ideal placement of the components and to spot any constraints.


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Yes. There are two grommets there. Power through one. Signal through the other. The signal wires go through the grommet where the stereo wires already exist. The grommet is/was empty just behind the big amp.

Makes sense. I was wondering how one would keep the audio interference down if there’s only one grommet you work with.


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I'm curious if you can share what material and thickness you used for adapting the OEM amplifier mount to your ACM-1.300.

I used 1/4" black abs from Taps Plastics.

Thanks. I’m looking at doing a similar placement with my amps. With an amp mounted on the front of that bracket there isn’t a lot of clearance left between the front of the amp and the spare. I’ve been debating whether 1/4” ABD/Plexiglas/HDPE would be rigid enough.


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