water pump replacement
 

Does anyone know how hard it is to replace the water pump and thermostate or what the dealer charges to have it done approximate

Pelican Parts has some great how-to articles. Here's one on the water pump and t-stat.

https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/34-WATER-Thermostat_and_Pump/34-WATER-Thermostat_and_Pump.htm

There are plenty of great threads with great tips on here as well, just do a search.

Many on this forum know how hard this job is.
It's a messy job as you have to deal with the coolant. It's not as frustrating as replacing the coolant expansion tank as most bolts on the WP are accessible. A couple are challenging. Then you have to replace lost coolant and make sure system is purged of air. I found this a good time to flush and replace my coolant.

It isn't even close to impossible, no special tools are needed. Like lots of things on the Boxster engine it's a little tight and you need to access from under neath and through the panel behind the seats. We don't have a gauge of your abilities or limberness, tho. Things that might be easy for most of us might be difficult for you.

I wouldn't have it done at the dealer, they charge inflated parts and labor prices. An independent European repair garage would be appropriate. Go with their parts recommendation, you really do want pump with a fiber impeller, eventual failure won't grind up the front of the aluminum engine. OEM is expensive, but the best.

If you're a newbie or inexperienced diy mechanic, I'd do it myself. You never learn if you don't try new things. The one time I tried to rebuild an old Toyota automatic transmission, I found out that I shouldn't do automatics--ended up converting the car to a 5 speed from a wrecked one.:dance:

Good Luck.

On my own I replaced the WP. The coolant... that's the biggest drag as it can get messy.

I did my motor mount at the same time... and it made replacing the water pump a breeze, figuratively speaking. Yes, there is a WP bolt or two that can be challenging but, with the motor mount at the same time... hardly as chalennging, and a breeze.

:cheers:

On many instructions it is adviced to take two WP bolts off from inside the cabin. I did this on my first WP change - a real pain in the ...
Second time a round I unbolted and rebolted all WP bolts from undernath the car and it was waaaay easier.
My car is 2001 Boxer Base with manual transmission (probably does not make a difference between 986's).
Also not very messy since I was able to use a lift in my friends shop and was able to stand under the car :rolleyes:

what is approximate cost to have dealer or independent shop do the wp rough idea jimbo

I just had a new water pump installed by my "indi" shop (in the Chicago suburbs) on my 1998 Boxster (w/85,000 original miles). The total came to $1,100 for parts, labor, coolant etc. Since the car has been virtually trouble free for the 20 years I've owned it I consider it just normal ownership costs. YES, of course I could have saved money by doing it myself but that's just not my thing and I have no way to work from under the car. The original WP lasted 20 years so I'm hoping to get another 20 from this new pump....lol.

It's true about doing the motor mount at the same time. Makes access much easier.
Also, IIRC, some of the bolts holding the WP in place are different in length—make sure you keep straight in your head (I believe I actually made a little diagram) which ones go where.

Seems to be a big difference of opinion on this. I got probably 10-12 years out of mine. (I'm assuming that the one I removed was original—the car only had 19k miles when I got it.) OTOH, Jake Raby (the "Engine Surgeon" who used to post here regularly, a pretty knowledgeable guy when it comes to the M96) advised changing them out every 3 years.

Simple job: not worth paying someone to do. The burping is the hardest part.

No big deal. Pierburg water pump. Do the low temp stat while you’re in there. An Airlift tool makes coolant refill a breeze.

An Airlift tool is worth every penny. It is fast, easy and works as perfect as the YT videos show.

Replacing the WP is a little bit PITA, but very doable DIY. Just plan on replacing the unicorn sperm they call Porsche coolant when you do it.

As newart mentioned, put in a low temp thermostat "while you are in there" also consider replacing the motor mount as well. Lots of threads on this

You can get a pierburg (OEM quality) at a reasonable cost. When I did mine a few years back, IIRC it was around $350 for the WP, low temp thermostat and the Porsche brand coolant. I got it all from ware house 33 auto dot com (remove spaces ) and put rennlist in the promo field for an extra 10% off

As crazy as this sounds check Amazon. If your not using OEM.Because the early 2.5 are a dying breed and there`s lots of rebuilts sitting on shelves that need to be moved.Worth the look.

Where would one look for a 2.5L that has been rebuilt?

Wps are either OEM or remanufactured.Before I bought I checked with my indie.I bought a pump on Amazon Prime for $98. CND.Regular price $249. It was from a company in New Jersey.Came with the complete gasket.No core return.

Don't be a penny wise and a pound foolish when it comes to your WP

Lots of threads about water pumps do a search and read them

YMMV

The WP isn’t particularly bad to change. The upper t-stat housing bolts will create a few sentence enhancers. You WILL spill coolant, you WILL wear some coolant at some point as well. As others have said, purging the system of air as defined in the manual is the biggest PITA of the whole job... doing a WP is good pre-Zen work for when you have to do the alternator...

I had my alternator rebuilt a couple months ago. Removing it was a piece of cake. reinstalling it presented a challenge. The water pump I replaced myself and found it more time consuming that the alternator (jacking the car... replacing the MM at the same time).

I'd rather change out the water pump. ;)

I found all bolts on WP and t-stat surprisingly easy to access, even with the motor mount in place. The worst part of the job was definitely the mouthful and eyeful of coolant!

I have done it twice.

First time I used Pedros method removed front engine mount and replaced it along with the thermostat. If you go that route the bolts are 10mm and easy to get to but you have to get car up so you can get under it for the motor mount.

Second time I just replaced the water pump. There is NO WAY you can do this without a 10mm flex head NOT AN ADAPTER for the 10mm socket.

I got a 5 gal bin from Walmart and drained the fluid into it and took it to the landfill. Replaced it with premixed prestone for our cars, opened the burp valve and drove around my neighborhood. Had the vacuum thing thought it was more work than it was worth. Probably useful at a garage where completing the job quickly is important but I didn't find it necessary.

I also added an S center cooler, my car is a 99.

Not true- the flex adapter works fine.

This worked for me:

Craftsman 3/8 drive with a 8MM deep-well socket to break loose and tighten the bolt. It fit perfectly.
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1579787385.jpg


Then I switched to a regular 8MM socket, a swivel adapter and an extension (not pictured) to wind out the bolt.
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1579787474.jpg

Replace the bolts when you replace the WP. When I replaced mine several years ago, I torqued the head off one of the bolts at 7.5 FTLB!. Fortunately, there was enough sticking out of the block to easily remove it. I replaced the bolts with grade 8 capheads. I posted a thread on this.

YMMV

Now you know why anti seize exists, we use it on every pump bolt on every pump replacement.

So I'll be updating my water pump in the near future. I've had the car 1.5 years and been working my way around the car and replacing items for preventative maintenance. Water pump still working well, temps are normal and no noises, but going to replace as it is 61K miles now an not sure if original or not.
My question is, while I am in there going to replace belt (of course) and thinking of adding Underdrive pulley. An 'internet genius' on another forum mentioned going with the 996 GT3 / Turbo Water pump as its pulley diameter would be a better match for the underdrive accessory and thus keep water pump turning at faster speeds.
What say you? Is this necessary - It was the first time I have ever seen this mentioned. I live in S FLorida and fans are kicking on frequently, but never had any overheating issues and car has ran well for the 5 thousand miles or so I've had it.
I'm thinking I should just stick with the standard 986 Boxster water pump (composite vanes) and not worry about it.
Thoughts?

you can push the water to fast.
When that happens the coolant is not in the radiator long enough for sufficient heat dissipation.
Sounds crazy I know.
Many times standard=OEM parts are best.

I have done my water pump twice. First time I replaced the thermostat, coolant and front motor mount. Second time I added a center S radiator. I have a 99. It depends on how handy you are. Also, I burp the system and have done it twice always works fine. Bought one of those gadgets that works off the compressor. Personally didnt like it and sold it. Burp process works fine for me and easy to do. If you replace the motor mount getting to the water pump is much easier but you need to support the engine and get under the car to remove it and have new motormount pressed in. If you dont do motor mount you will need a 10 mm swivel head which will JUST fit in to remove the bottom bolt. Not impossible. Its nothing compared to retrofitting the power brake booster with the sealed bellows. I think that was the most awful job I have done to my care since owning it.

to quote "new art," "No big deal. Pierburg water pump. Do the low temp stat while you’re in there. An Airlift tool makes coolant refill a breeze"

Note: It doesnt have to be an airlift, I bought a high quality clone (OEM tools 24444) for around 80 bucks (do not get the really cheap ones on amazon/ebay) because my indy shop that lends me such stuff broke their airlift. I let them use mine now and they love it.
the other advice from the forum on reaching bolts, etc is spot on. This is a straightforward job. Check/replace your pulleys, replacing the belt and of course flush your coolant. (this is really easy with the tool )

Worst job for me was the foam cleanup in cabin blower and plenum; took the seats out and spent the better part of 2 days fixing it and buttoning everything up. Granted, it was a couple of 95 degree days that made it much worse, but I was frustrated as I recall.
My buddy wants to do it and I said wait until November. Never again. [emoji3]


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