Burping a cooling system

[s2per]

I’ve also posted this on Pelican Boxster forum but I’d like to get some additional input.
I just replaced the water pump and t-stat on our ‘06 Boxster Tip. I followed the instructions from Wayne’s book and various other recommendations for filling the system. I was to borrow a vacuum aided filler and it seemed to work well. There appears to be only one 986-style bleeder valve on my car in the trunk.

However, after 6 attempts to get air out of the system, here’s what I have:
No leaks
Heater blows hot air.
The left hose going to the radiators gets hot.
The right hose from the rads and the New 160 degree thermostat are cold.
Fans never turn on.
Tank In trunk remains full.

I have a suggestion from a mechanic friend to put a pressure tester on the tank cap, pressurize and then open the bleeder. But I’m beginning to think I may have to access the radiators and manually get the air out.

I’m open to suggestions!

[Quadcammer]

lift ass end of car as high as your jackstands will allow. Open the bleeder and coolant cap.

Run the car, revving occasionally, holding at 3k rpm for a while, repeat a few times.

If you still aren't getting consistent coolant flow, you may have another issue.

[Gilles]

PS, perhaps you want to leave the heater valve open as well..

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by s2per

I’ve also posted this on Pelican Boxster forum but I’d like to get some additional input.
I just replaced the water pump and t-stat on our ‘06 Boxster Tip. I followed the instructions from Wayne’s book and various other recommendations for filling the system. I was to borrow a vacuum aided filler and it seemed to work well. There appears to be only one 986-style bleeder valve on my car in the trunk.

However, after 6 attempts to get air out of the system, here’s what I have:
No leaks
Heater blows hot air.
The left hose going to the radiators gets hot.
The right hose from the rads and the New 160 degree thermostat are cold.
Fans never turn on.
Tank In trunk remains full.

I have a suggestion from a mechanic friend to put a pressure tester on the tank cap, pressurize and then open the bleeder. But I’m beginning to think I may have to access the radiators and manually get the air out.

I’m open to suggestions!

It sounds to me like the system is fine. What makes you think it needs to be burped? Is the car overheating? I have NEVER had to "burp" one of these cars after it was refilled under vacuum...………...

[rexcramer]

+1 for the vacuum method. I can't imagine doing it any other way. I nailed it the first time I used it.

[piper6909]

I didn't use vacuum when I changed my WP & T-Stat. I filled it like any other car, but then I used the same method Quadcammer suggested. I had no issues, maybe I just got lucky.

[Starter986]

Originally Posted by piper6909

I didn't use vacuum when I changed my WP & T-Stat. I filled it like any other car, but then I used the same method Quadcammer suggested. I had no issues, maybe I just got lucky.

Likewise. I concluded by driving down a very steep grade behind my home. No problems since.

[mikesz]

i filled my system while rearend was jacked up. then opened up burp valve an drove around my neighborhood
bought the vacuum thingy and thought it to be a pita and sold it. i know the **************** i am going to get but that is what i did and only my opinion based on my experience. i have a 99

[paulofto]

I refilled my system while the car was perfectly level. Used a vacuum draw system that worked flawlessly. I didn't have to raise the rear end or drive down a steep hill or rev the engine. Done right the vacuum draw system works like a charm The only issue is you need a compressor to run the unit. I borrowed my bro-in-laws. Easy peasy.

[Starter986]

Originally Posted by paulofto

I refilled my system while the car was perfectly level. Used a vacuum draw system that worked flawlessly. I didn't have to raise the rear end or drive down a steep hill or rev the engine. Done right the vacuum draw system works like a charm The only issue is you need a compressor to run the unit. I borrowed my bro-in-laws. Easy peasy.

Yeah. Having a compressor would be nice. Space-challenged here.

The expense of the compressor... the vacuum... the nukmber of times I'm going to use it... didn't make $en$e for me. Jack up the back... open the vent... rev it up... lower it... drive around normally for a day or so... close vent... repeat in a few years.

No issues.

Snorefest on this end.

[Gilles]

Originally Posted by rexcramer

+1 for the vacuum method. I can't imagine doing it any other way. I nailed it the first time I used it.

Rexcramer, which vacuum pump did you buy? I am planning on installing the 'third center radiator' but don't have a vacuum pump, thanks!

[piper6909]

Originally Posted by Gilles

Rexcramer, which vacuum pump did you buy? I am planning on installing the 'third center radiator' but don't have a vacuum pump, thanks!

No need for a vacuum pump. Just do what Starter986 said and jack up the back.

Also follow the revving procedure in this article:
https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/29-WATER-Flush/29-WATER-Flush.htm

[Gilles]

Originally Posted by piper6909

No need for a vacuum pump. Just do what Starter986 said and jack up the back.

Thanks Piper,
I used this method on my 987 when installed the center radiator and again after replacing the water pump, but the 981 has also a heat exchanger on the PDK gearbox and I wanted to ensure that no air pockets are left on the system ...Perhaps is an excuse to get a new tool? :-)

[piper6909]

Originally Posted by Gilles

Thanks Piper,
I used this method on my 987 when installed the center radiator and again after replacing the water pump, but the 981 has also a heat exchanger on the PDK gearbox and I wanted to ensure that no air pockets are left on the system ...Perhaps is an excuse to get a new tool? :-)

I get that! I often look for excuses when I want a new gadget. In that case, get the pump and enjoy!

[rexcramer]

Uview Airlift Model #550000. The link is a YT video; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FQnfUe6P5VI It really is that fast and simple. I had two Boxsters at the time and figured the time savings was worth the cost. Still feel that way. This tool and a Motive power brake bleeder are essential tools, as far as I am concerned. Can't imagine doing either of those projects without both tools.

I don't see them on Pelican's site. Amazon has them listed for +/-$120.

Edit, a good air compressor is required to pull a sufficient vacuum.

[Qingdao]

I just run it around the block with a jug of coolant in the trunk. Cap slightly unscrewed, and wait for the burp. Took about 3 miles last time. *

That vac tool looks neat though.


* put all new hoses on when we first got the car... then my wife broke her radiator... then the overflow jug cracked. So I've done it three times. Well, that was the last car.

[JayG]

Originally Posted by Starter986

Yeah. Having a compressor would be nice. Space-challenged here.

The expense of the compressor... the vacuum... the nukmber of times I'm going to use it... didn't make $en$e for me. Jack up the back... open the vent... rev it up... lower it... drive around normally for a day or so... close vent... repeat in a few years.

No issues.

Snorefest on this end.

Harbor freight has small compressors that cost under $40 that work fine and don't take up much space

[Gilles]

For the time you took to show me how does the Airlift works, I will be getting the Uview Airlift 55000 to properly purge my car after installing the center radiator.

Also for the time being, I will pass on the Lift Bars as my car is too low to use them.

It is nice put a face on a name of people that we had been interacting with for a few years and finally getting the opportunity to met them in person, thanks again for the time and kindness!

Regards,
Gilles

[rexcramer]

You are welcome sir. I enjoyed the chat. Safe travels.