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Old 10-22-2019, 12:08 PM   #1
1998 Boxster Silver/Red
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: 92262
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Alternator rebuild...

The noise I thought emanating from the idler and tensioner pulleys bearings (I serviced)... is the alternator.

Just returned from the local alternator rebuild shop... and 15 seconds into the diagnosis... front bearings. The 1.5 mile drive over I thought the thing was going to seize on me it was so noisy... especially with the front engine cover off. Likewise back. The car won't be moving until repair is completed.

$189 all Bosch parts... 1 day turnaround. That said...

Next project.

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Old 10-22-2019, 12:25 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Starter986 View Post
The noise I thought emanating from the idler and tensioner pulleys bearings (I serviced)... is the alternator.

Just returned from the local alternator rebuild shop... and 15 seconds into the diagnosis... front bearings. The 1.5 mile drive over I thought the thing was going to seize on me it was so noisy... especially with the front engine cover off. Likewise back. The car won't be moving until repair is completed.

$189 all Bosch parts... 1 day turnaround. That said...

Next project.
That's not a bad price. Rock auto has Reman Bosch units for $220, after core return.
Will they also do the brushes?
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Old 10-22-2019, 01:02 PM   #3
1998 Boxster Silver/Red
 
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Originally Posted by piper6909 View Post
That's not a bad price. Rock auto has Reman Bosch units for $220, after core return.
Will they also do the brushes?
That's what I learned about reman vs. rebuild. Reman is the way to go... for that is new everything. Rebuild is the replacement of errant parts. The $189 is rebuild.

I can have my car down for however long... so I'd mail them the core. Postage $9. Out the door... a "new" alternator... $230.

Thanks, Pal. Certainly worth the extra $40. Dam n.

You'd go the reman route?

Edit: I'm going remn - Rock Auto. Thatks, Pipe!
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Old 10-22-2019, 01:16 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by Starter986 View Post
That's what I learned about reman vs. rebuild. Reman is the way to go... for that is new everything. Rebuild is the replacement of errant parts. The $189 is rebuild.

I can have my car down for however long... so I'd mail them the core. Postage $9. Out the door... a "new" alternator... $230.

Thanks, Pal. Certainly worth the extra $40. Dam n.

You'd go the reman route?
I guess the only other wear items after the bearings are the brushes. If they won't replace the brushes, I'd probably go the reman route with a 24 month warranty. But I'm also all for keeping business local, so I'd go talk to them and see what they can do.
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Old 10-22-2019, 02:30 PM   #5
1998 Boxster Silver/Red
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by piper6909 View Post
I guess the only other wear items after the bearings are the brushes. If they won't replace the brushes, I'd probably go the reman route with a 24 month warranty. But I'm also all for keeping business local, so I'd go talk to them and see what they can do.
Thanks!

I'll phone them and ask about all the bearings, brushes, voltage regulator, and their warranty.

Appreciate the advice.

Edit: $189 includes new bearings, brushes, and voltage regulator... Bosch parts. If the wound wire needs replacing... that's included. 2 year warranty. Looks like I'll be keeping it local.

Thanks, again, for the heads-up on Rock Auto.
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Old 10-25-2019, 11:31 AM   #6
1998 Boxster Silver/Red
 
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I'd appreciate a recommendation...

Should I stick with the rebuild (above described)? Or, should I consider this remanufactured unit:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Reman-PORSCHE-BOSCH-120A-Alternator-built-by-an-Independent-U-S-A-Rebuilder/163670226753?hash=item261b817741:g:d80AAOSw-xVaPnBZ

FWIW... the options sticker under my hood identifies my alternator as a 1.7KW model. The part number is 996.603.012.01

Is that going to make a difference to the rebuilder... that's it's 1.7KW?

Does that part # align with an alternator for a manual transmission only?

Does the number 0 124 515 015 above the 996.603.012.01 matter? I ran both numbers and they both point to this unit.

I'm also wondering if maybe already the alternator has been replaced given the "manual tranmission" language.

Finally, my existing alternator doesn't have that flush "cap" at the end of the pulley.

Thank you for your help, guidance, and recommendation.

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Old 10-30-2019, 06:10 AM   #7
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I'm no expert but, 1.7Kw works out to about 140 amps. That seems like a lot for a boxster. I would have expected more like 100 amps. Next it is very important if you have a manual transmission that you have an alternator pulley that acts like a ratchet so when the engine is abruptly slowed down by a downshift that the alternator can continue to rotate briefly rather than put stress on the armature shaft. You can identify the pulley by it having a dust cover on the front.
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Old 10-30-2019, 06:19 AM   #8
1998 Boxster Silver/Red
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by obthomas View Post
I'm no expert but, 1.7Kw works out to about 140 amps. That seems like a lot for a boxster. I would have expected more like 100 amps. Next it is very important if you have a manual transmission that you have an alternator pulley that acts like a ratchet so when the engine is abruptly slowed down by a downshift that the alternator can continue to rotate briefly rather than put stress on the armature shaft. You can identify the pulley by it having a dust cover on the front.
Hi OB,

I made a mistake. The 1.7KW is for the starter. I erred thinking it was the alternator... and the rebuilder suggested I had the KW associated with the alternator. He was correct.

This morning I retrieve the alternator, and Friday (when it warms outside) I'll reinstalll it.

My alternator doesn't have that dust cover and, when it was being noisy, would whir respective to the downshift. For a spell I was hoping it wasn't the transmission... and it isn't.

Cheers!

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