HELP Needed...Clutch Slave Cylinder or Pressure Plate?
 

Hello guys,

I've done some research on my issue but I thought I could get some help from those in the know.

Let me give a little history on the car. I had a new Sachs kit installed when I was having my engine rebuilt. The prior clutch kit before the new one installed was in the car for 10 years and was told the clutch had 50% left (so I think I know how to drive a manual). I decided to install a new one since I was getting an IMS upgrade. Fast forward 3 years and 35,000 miles later I'm having some issues.

First thing I notice a couple of months ago was there a squeaking/whirring sound coming form the slave cylinder area and brake fluid was down a tad bit from the MAX in the reservoir. I top it off but the sound did not go away but eventually increase in sound and the brake fluid level went down slightly again.

Next, maybe a week ago, I notice a little stiffness in getting into gear. Decided this weekend I would take a look underneath but did not make it. Car now will not go into gear when car is ON but will shift perfectly fine when car is off.

Last night I check the shift cables and everything was working ok. Is it possible that it could be the slave cylinder? Again, I did hear a loud sound coming from the area when I depress the clutch pedal. Or does it sound like a pressure plate issue? I thought I should change the slave cylinder before it has to be "opened up" to see whats going on. Please share your thoughts on the situation. Thanks!

Dan

Losing fluid, if it is not elsewhere, would be the slave cylinder. The pressure plate has nothing to do with that. If the slave is leaking and there is air in the system likely it can't get enough movement on the throwout bearing to release the clutch, which would explain the shifting problem. The loud noise is something else... perhaps the fluid has dripped onto the throwout bearing and done something bad to it, not sure what.

Understood and thanks for the reply.

I'm puzzled because it shifts fine with the engine off. Could this still be slave cylinder issue with car shifting when turned off? Thanks.

Why don't you bleed it again, following the repair shop instructions?

...Pressurize the system, keeping the pedal pushed to the floor (broom stick..), then open the bleeder on the slave for 20 seconds (..!!) yes, that's what the shop manual says.

The only associated cost would be two litters of brake fluid (as 20 seconds feels like an eternity), but may solve your problem.
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I actually thought of that before it stop going into gear. I think I'm going to replace the slave cylinder and bleed the system. I will definitely follow up the thread with this issue. Thanks guys.

I cut an 11mm box-end wrench in two to bleed the slave. Use a pressure bleeder and pass a long tube through the wrench to the bleeder nipple. Use an old 4 litre washer fluid bottle as a catch can.

Spot on NewArt. That's exactly how I've done in the past. I haven't received the new slave but I will report back when I finish the job. Thanks!

Am I the only one with a 9mm slave bleed nipple? :)

Why and in what way did you cut it in two? Just curious.

I think he may have cut it in two because it such a tight fit..Easy to maneuver? That's what I remember when bleeding the slave. 😁

That's how I do it too, except this last time I got all fancy and bought a stubby, ratcheting box-end wrench. Ooohhhh..... I'll never go back. Hahaha

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You actually found a stubby, ratcheting box-end wrench? :cool:

Snap On makes them

https://public.snapon.com/R_RRD/Obje...BOERMSF712.jpg

yup. they ain't cheap.... but I find I'm becoming a bit of a "tool snob", haha.

I've got a set of the stubbies...Very handy! Mine are not Snap On...not in my zip code!

Snap On's are nice because you can reverse them without taking them off the fitting; very handy when bleeding brakes or clutches.

Update:

I installed the slave cylinder (The nut that attaches the hydraulic line is 12 mm. This is frustrating in such a tight spot). Tuff install but can be done. Leverage is minimal. I felt like a weakling after getting the slave lined up and bolted down. Key (for me) is to put white lithium grease all over the bellows as well as the tip and mental/ physical strength :-)

Initially gears 2-6 went into gear very roughly then wouldn't engage thereafter. Again, the gears shifted fine with the car off. Obviously I'm not happy with the results. Anything else I can do or check before the clutch has to be inspected?? If anyone has any insight on what is occurring since the new slave cylinder didn't fix the problem it would be highly appreciated. Thanks.

Nice, I've never seen those. When I had to remove the supercharger from my Jag I bought every 10mm wrench Snap-On made.

Whew... ain't cheap is right:

https://shop.snapon.com/product/BOERMSF712

I guess the thread was taken over by tools.

Not sure on the bleeding process, but would it be worth going through again? Not familiar with the clutch system, could it be the master cylinder (if there is one)? The car does shift when not on, but are you sure it's fully going into gear? Yes, the shifter may be going full range, but if the cable slipped, it may not be going fully into gear. Could this contribute?