Noob here!!! 2001 Box....new to me...lots of questions

[tonythetiger]

Originally Posted by particlewave

Incorrect. Voltage tells you absolutely nothing.



You need to set it amps and measure the current drain. Report results.

Yes...but we forgive.

Check the link I sent earlier, it’s a free education. I started life as an electronic technician, built audio circuits and all sorts of gadgets as a kid too.
I found it logical and easy, but it’s a skill. Anybody can learn because it’s simple math.

Enjoy


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[particlewave]

Originally Posted by blue62

Particlewave,
Thank you very much for correcting me.
Electrics is probably my weakest ability went it comes to automotive.
oh wait, maybe be it's driving

Sorry if I sounded blunt. I was in a hurry and just now went back and read it.
I didn't mean it that way...just trying to convey the information.

[blue62]

Originally Posted by particlewave

Sorry if I sounded blunt. I was in a hurry and just now went back and read it.
I didn't mean it that way...just trying to convey the information.

The way you responded was fine. I didn't see anything wrong in it.
your input makes me look at and correct my methods of trouble shooting.
I can't see anything but positive in that.

[Box7774]

You guys are great....certainly all above my skill level but I am trying to make you proud. The multi meter is my weakest skill.....its all I can do to set it on volts...select 20.....red on pos...black on neg....and take a reading. When somebody tells me to ohm out something I immediately want to take a nap....does not compute.

Soooooooooooo I know i said I was gunna perform all tests......and was gunna make you proud but this is what i did tonight.

I finally found a fricking mini light bulb that would work for my tail light side marker....that was 3 days of my life i will never get back. I believe it was a





2528....so glad to see that sucker all lit up. I am now a 986 taillight expert...I can get those fixtures out of there with pit crew speed.

Then I went to work on my 3rd brake light....the previous owner had really worked this thing over. It was loose....not mounted because the body grommets were missing ...most of the brittle plastic clips were broken and two bulbs were out. I got it out...replaced the bulbs and have it back in better then before but wont be happy until it is bone stock perfect......so off to ebay or the for sale section here for a 3rd brake light and some body grommets. At least it works and will get me through local inspection which I need to do very soon.

Lastly I attacked the battery.....I took a quick reading and it was 12.3 ....I decided to remove it completely so I could clean contacts and grounds. The battery is fairly new....April of 2017....but you never know what shock or drain a battery has had. I figure I will take it to Batteries Plus and have them hook it up to their load machine.....and see what CCA it produces...etc Either way I like to start my used cars off with new batteries so I have a good base line. Now if I hook up a new battery and it drains to 12.3.....thats how a dummy like me knows there is an issue! As mentioned before the negative battery cable where it attaches to a body frame stud looks rusted....I also notice the shrink tubing is loose so moisture or salt air could have corroded wires under it. I will thoroughly clean this connection and inspect the condition of the wires then install new shrink tubing and some dielectric grease just to make u guys proud.

Pics tell the story better then I do....so enjoy the pics....batt terminals not bad.....but neg batt stud....not good.

Thanks guys

wooops I guess i left the curser in the middle of the page so thats where the pics will end up

[blue62]

I just repeated my version of a parasitic draw test on my 2000S Boxster and my 1960 Austin Healey.
Not what I expected from the Boxster it showed near battery voltage with everything off. if I turned anything on very little change in voltage maybe a 10th of a volt. near same results with amperage setting on the Multi meter.

The Austin Healey was more of what I expected.
No voltage or amperage draw with everything off.
if I turned on the lights or heater fan to simulate draw well of course I got a reading.

The fact that the Boxster is always drawing current for the computer or what ever makes my method invalid for the Boxster.

But it would work for the Austin Healey because when you turn the key and lights off no power goes to anything.

I apologize for any confusion to the original poster of the thread.!!!

A big thank you to Particlewave you caused me to double check my methods and correct them. Always good to learn new things

[particlewave]

Another thing to remember with the Boxster is that if you want an accurate "off" reading, you must wait until the "consumer shut off" circuit shuts down. That can take 10-15 minutes (I don't remember exactly how long).

Every time you open a door or reconnect the battery (even through the meter) that time resets. So, hook up your meter, wait 15 minutes, then check.

[blue62]

Box7744,
Yup cleaning up that ground connection will be a good thing.
Good thinking on the battery load test idea. Best way to see if it is good or bad.

[blue62]

Originally Posted by particlewave

Another thing to remember with the Boxster is that if you want an accurate "off" reading, you must wait until the "consumer shut off" circuit shuts down. That can take 10-15 minutes (I don't remember exactly how long).

Every time you open a door or reconnect the battery (even through the meter) that time resets. So, hook up your meter, wait 15 minutes, then check.

Yup they started screwing cars up after about 1960. LOL

[Box7774]

Thanks all.......I will report back...
I almost did the unthinkable and shut the front hood with no battery in the car.....I yelled out ohhhhhh shytttttttttttt!!!!! Then I realized you have to do the double push on a 986....saved the day....now hood is open with big sign on it.

[Box7774]

Took the battery to auto zone....Its a brand new store in my neighborhood so everything is clean and perfect.....to include the shiny new battery testing machine....that thing must cost $1000 dollars. The kid didnt give me much info other then it was at 12.55 volts on his machine......12.47 on my multi meter.....I even changed the battery on my meter but no change. I guess I will go with what the $1000 dollar machine said. He said the battery was good. So tonight I cleaned up the negative body post..removed the shrink tubing and inspected.....found zero issues with cable wires....cleaned up a bit added some dielectric grease and shrunk a new boot on. Im not really believing this post was my issue...but gotta start somewhere and it did need to be cleaned up.

I bought a 3rd brake light for $30
OEM starter for $65 had 70k miles on it......
Both from ebay last night.....let the spending begin!!!!!

See the before after on the body post....I will be crackin into that engine bay tomorrow...I cant wait to see it....yet with 158k I am very apprehensive...really dont want the spending to keep going and going and going.

[tonythetiger]

Originally Posted by Box7774

Thanks all.......I will report back...

I almost did the unthinkable and shut the front hood with no battery in the car.....I yelled out ohhhhhh shytttttttttttt!!!!! Then I realized you have to do the double push on a 986....saved the day....now hood is open with big sign on it.

Also, careful that you push on the edge for the second click. If you push higher up on hood, you will dent the car. Jiffy lube did it to one of mine during the 22 point check for fluids, etc.
dentless repair kinda fixed it, but...


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[Box7774]

Thanks for the tip Tony......

Ok I am reporting on my progress for anyone that is still with me......I had the battery removed and it was at 12.55v according to the guy at Auto Zone. I decided to hook it to my modern computer style battery charger for a few hours to really jazz it up. It charged quickly and with a surface charge was showing 12.7 or 12.8 when I reinstalled it. My terminals are spotless now and so is the ground post. After a short drive last night...and a short drive today the battery is reading in the 12.5 range. It will be interesting to see if it sinks back down to 12.3.
I did the alternator test tonight and with the engine running was reading 14.1 and 14.2 .....it held on very well even with a load.

Will keep an eye one it. New starter will arrive in a couple of days and I will finally be forced to find the engine. Once the engine has been excavated I will look carefully for wiring issues and ground issues.

[blue62]

Originally Posted by Box7774

Thanks for the tip Tony......

Ok I am reporting on my progress for anyone that is still with me......I had the battery removed and it was at 12.55v according to the guy at Auto Zone. I decided to hook it to my modern computer style battery charger for a few hours to really jazz it up. It charged quickly and with a surface charge was showing 12.7 or 12.8 when I reinstalled it. My terminals are spotless now and so is the ground post. After a short drive last night...and a short drive today the battery is reading in the 12.5 range. It will be interesting to see if it sinks back down to 12.3.
I did the alternator test tonight and with the engine running was reading 14.1 and 14.2 .....it held on very well even with a load.

Will keep an eye one it. New starter will arrive in a couple of days and I will finally be forced to find the engine. Once the engine has been excavated I will look carefully for wiring issues and ground issues.

your voltages look right to me for the test you have done.

[Box7774]

Ya.....good to see the alternator is doing its thing.....we shall see in the next few days if the ole gal is still draining the battery.

Hey...question for you.....where is the door switch that actuates the door light?

Thanks

[blue62]

Originally Posted by Box7774

Ya.....good to see the alternator is doing its thing.....we shall see in the next few days if the ole gal is still draining the battery.

Hey...question for you.....where is the door switch that actuates the door light?

Thanks

No idea I have never had a problem with door lights.
Perhaps Particlewave or another member who knows will jump in with the answer

[particlewave]

The door and dome lights are controlled by the immobilizer. The immobilizer gets the door open signal from a switch inside the door latch mechanism.

[Box7774]

Thanks PW........Have been checking my volts like a crazy man.......they are creeping downward. 12.47 now. I still have several days before my starter arrives and when I will get into the engine so I was thinking about trying a new battery. Its only 120 bucks and it would help me determine parasitic drain. So I was reading several posts and many mentioned a Walmart battery. When I looked up the Walmart battery for my car a H8 size came up. Now this made me go back to my pictures of the current battery in the car which is a H6. So I looked at more web sites and I am seeing anywhere from H6 ....to H7. Keep in mind I cannot talk intelligently about battery group sizes...CCA...or otherwise. I just pick up what the chart says and install it.

So what do u guys recommend on the cheap....and what size H6 H7...H8

Current battery says MTP-48/H6-1
CCA 730
CA910
RC115
AH70
Its an Interstate Battery.

Novus plastic polish arrived today
New used 3rd brake light arrived today

[blue62]

Originally Posted by Box7774

Thanks PW........Have been checking my volts like a crazy man.......they are creeping downward. 12.47 now. I still have several days before my starter arrives and when I will get into the engine so I was thinking about trying a new battery. Its only 120 bucks and it would help me determine parasitic drain. So I was reading several posts and many mentioned a Walmart battery. When I looked up the Walmart battery for my car a H8 size came up. Now this made me go back to my pictures of the current battery in the car which is a H6. So I looked at more web sites and I am seeing anywhere from H6 ....to H7. Keep in mind I cannot talk intelligently about battery group sizes...CCA...or otherwise. I just pick up what the chart says and install it.

So what do u guys recommend on the cheap....and what size H6 H7...H8

Current battery says MTP-48/H6-1
CCA 730
CA910
RC115
AH70
Its an Interstate Battery.

Novus plastic polish arrived today
New used 3rd brake light arrived today

I just tested my battery it is at 12.40 volts I have not started it for about a week.
There is always a little drain on the battery in a modern day car so at 12.47 I think you may be ok. give it a few more days of sitting (if you can stand it) and see where your at.

[Troy.Boxster]

Here is something else you can do that might help with the parasitic battery drain. I've not had a problem with my battery running down since making this change to the radio. It's worth a shot at least.

Parasitic battery drain - SOLVED!

Good luck!

-Troy

[Box7774]

Thanks guys.....yep I admit it. This battery drain is driving me nuts!! Buying a car with 158k miles on it I guess I should expect it has been fiddled and tinkered on by one too many DIYers....including me.

Previous owner replaced the radio with a cheap modern job. He did a half ass install too.....only hooked up the back two speakers and no radio antenna. I assume he did this for a couple of reasons. I can charge my phone from the radio usb port and its a bluetooth radio for hands free calling and or phone to radio music.
I will probably remove it and improve on the install. I will have to see if the new radio has an LED flasher or not. One thing for certain is that my OEM radio was monitored by the alarm system.......Im just wondering if the alarm system is running down my battery hunting for the signal for my radio? How do I tell the car its cool....and to relax?

12.4 on your batt huh........makes me feel a little better....misery loves company.