Engine tap at start up with oil light.
 

I searched the forum but couldn't find this topic. My wife and I stopped for dinner tonight after an hour's drive and when we returned to the car I had a concerning event happen.

I started my 04 S and had a loud tapping sound occur with the oil light illuminated. I turned off the engine immediately and then turned on the ignition to look at the oil level. (It was full.) I restarted the engine and it sounded normal. I drove home (2 miles) and the car performed normally with no tapping or warning lights.

I just changed the plugs 90 miles ago and the old plugs looked normal. The Boxster has 33,700 miles on it.

Any insight into this would be appreciated. Thanks.

I was about to post the same question when I searched and saw this. I have 2002 Boxster S w/ 72 K. This happened last year, then some months ago. I stopped the car, Checked for an oil leak, checked the oil level and everything was good. Restarted and the car was fine. Happened again about 2 months later and went away after restart. A few nights ago it happened again but this time happened again within a few hours.

The Air/oil separator was changed about 4 years ago. Anyone have any idea what I need to look for? My next option would be to wait until it happens again and put the car in service mode and put a scanner on the car to see if anything comes up.

I can't believe no one replied to the first post in 2019. Forget the scanner, what is it going to tell you? Get a mechanics stethoscope and locate the noise. If you are lucky, it might be an exhaust leak.

Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk

Scope isn't going to tell you anything.

What oil are you putting in, how often are you changing it, what was the weather like outside? Ever replace the cam actuator pads?

What does the tapping sound like?

I've seen bad starters click like this. If that's the case the oil light will go on when this happens as the sensors expect to see pressure as the starter cranks but if there is no crank then there is no pressure.

Sent from my SM-G970U1 using Tapatalk

Mobil 1 10w-40 SYN, change every 5K or at start of fall, spring and summer weather only, I haven't changed those and I doubt the previous owner did as the car had 50K when I acquired it. If it needs to be done hopefully I can do it myself.

It's not a loud tapping but definitely there and oil light goes on. I haven't kept the car running long enough to determine if the tapping accelerates when I depress the gas pedal.

Thanks. STL-986 agrees.

Long before I would get out the stethoscope, I would be reaching for my oil pressure test kit that uses a tested mechanical gauge to tell me what the oil pressure is doing when the noise occurs.

It could be something as simple as the $20 oil pump piston and spring update kit that Porsche released some years back to address low oil pressure at idle on these cars; or it could be something more complicated that requires further investigation before the noise becomes constant..........

Thanks. I'll pick up a test kit. Looks like they can be had for under $50. Do you recommend any particular brand? I'm sure there are plenty of vids on YouTube on how to test and where to connect.

There are a ton of kits out there, I personally like the OTC kit which I have had for years.

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....AC_SL1015_.jpg

Thanks for searching before posting. You could have some clogged Lifters.

Thanks. As always, your counsel is appreciated.

Thanks. Would you know if there's an oil additive that might alleviate the condition?

I'll let JFP chime in with some insight, he always has good thoughts. But would look into what he does mention about the oil pump.

Your last oil change, how much did you put in? seeing any oil leaks on the engine itself underneath?

My first thought is a lifter issue. Depends on the noise cause it could also be the cam pads/chains, but that is usually persistent not just on startup. I would put something in like seafoam right before your next oil change. Such as drive it for 20-40 miles with seafoam and then change your oil & filter. Let the oil drain for an hour and then fill. If it helps then maybe do it 1 more time.

If you are using a quality full synthetic oil, with high ZDDP and Moly additive content, nothing else is needed.

He needs to know the oiling system is functioning properly before looking elsewhere. It can be a lifter issue, these cars are prone to having lifter problems, but as for using the additive you mention, I am not even going to go there.................

Thanks. I saw that OTC on Amazon for about $67. I'll pick it up as it looks like I can use it on my other cars as well. This is connected to the oil pressure sensor under the hood, correct?

I added 9.25 QTS MB 1 10w 40 Syn adding 9 then checking the levels I add the other quarter. The attached pic shows the spots I see underneath. I assumed it was old oil on the engine block with A/C condensation but I could be wrong. I've only seen a full oil drop once this year and the rest of the time this. The paper was new about 45 days ago.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1627493733.jpg

Yes, you remove the oil pressure sending unit and connect it there. The OTC unit comes with a complete set of adaptors to fit just about anything, and plan on using the lower pressure gauge.

Took the car out yesterday and got the tapping sound with the Battery light on this time. Shut the car off and restarted and no tapping or battery light. After an hour, i ran it down a nice long straightaway with no cops, the rear spoiler light came on but no tapping. Pulled over but the spoiler was down and light still on. I manually raised the spoiler and one side went up while the other side was stuck and I heard the familiar tapping.The spoiler retracted ok and the light went off after restart. I'm glad the sound wasn't coming from the engine but now I need to troubleshoot the light issue and probably lubricate the spoiler mechanism to see if it corrects the uneven extraction.

does anyone feel the spoiler makes a difference? I thought they were more for front engine mounted cars where the back end was light. I would think with a mid engine vehicle it would not be as useful.

oh it is useful. You wont notice much at 70 but you will at 110. they aren't just for front engine cars, they are to push the rear end down, regardless of weight at the front.

Spoiler:
Spoils the air.
The air coming over the car creates a little lift at the rear..
Makes the back end light at speed.
So "Spoil the air" to eliminate the lift.
They do not create down force.
You need a wing for down force.

If you're lucky the spoiler mechanism will just need cleaning and relubricating. If you're not, the gears will be stripped and the mechanism will need to be replaced. A couple of years ago I had a similar issue and took mine apart, cleaned it all up and relubricated the gears and cables and put it all back together. It's still working perfectly.

The mechanism comes out easily and comes apart easily. There is a central pinion gear attached to the motor and two rack gears attached to cables that run through tubes to raise and lower the spoiler. Take a picture of where the gears are positioned before you take it all apart, the spoiler should have been either fully up or fully down and it has to be reassembled in the same position it was in before disassembly. The cables inside the tubes are probably gunked up with years of road grime, they will need to be cleaned and regreased. The cable ends are spring loaded which need to be compressed and put into slots at the end of the rack gears. These ends are held in place by the mechanism case when it is all assembled. It's a bit of a trick to get everything together and have it stay in place while you reassemble the case. If you have a large flat surface to work on, and something stable to push against when getting the spring loaded cable ends back into the rack gears, that will be very helpful. I used the base of my vise bolted to the workbench top for this. The ends of the cables also have sharp metal pieces. Wear heavy leather work gloves during this part and avoid cutting your fingers like I did before I put the gloves on.

Hope you find this helpful, good luck!

Yes, thanks very much for the great info PaulE! Since the car has a blank history, it's probably needing a good lube as you stated. In South Plainfield NJ today, probably in your neck of the woods.

Thanks for explaining the difference. Good to know.

Yes, since the top speed I've ever driven it is 85-90 on a straight road, I probably wouldn't have noticed a difference. The car had no maintenance records when I acquired it as it was an insurance salvage that was totaled from a rear end collision. Because of the spotty history, I'm reluctant to really put a strain on the engine for fear of damage. It's strictly a spring, summer, fall car for me.

Not too far, I'm in Northeast NJ! Good luck with the spoiler mechanism, let us know how it turns out!

Yes, very helpful. What do you recoomend for the lubrication? WD-40, silicon spray, caliper grease? The Boxster service manual doesn't mention any lube recommendations in their breakdown instructions.

just regular bearing grease is fine or silicon. Doubt there would be any recommendations by porsche.

I used wheel bearing grease on the cables that run through the tubes. For the gears, there was plenty of white grease still in there, I just made sure it was on the gears and free of dirt. Since Porsche only sells the whole spoiler lift mechanism as one part, not the gears inside or anything else, I doubt they specify a grease for it.