Wiring gurus - diagnosing rear trunk latch inop

[Doug427]

Warning, this is about my 2005 987 Boxster S, which I assume like most of the car is wired very similarly to my 2002 986 Boxster S. The rear trunk lid switch does nothing. No click, no noise - it's dead. My wiring skills leave a lot to be desired, so hopefully one or more of you guys can lead me down the path I need to travel in diagnosing the issue.

I think the switch that controls the front/rear truck latch release has power, as the front trunk opens just fine. Is that a correct assumption?

Assuming it is, then I would think that either the switch for the rear trunk is bad, the wiring to the rear trunk latch is bad (unlikely), or the rear trunk latch itself is bad.

Assuming all that is correct (maybe it's not) then my plan would be to remove the plug from the bottom of the switch in the drivers door sill, and jump the plug to simulate the switch completing the circuit. If the rear trunk pops open, then the switch is bad. If the trunk doesn't pop open, then check the plug for the trunk latch t look for power there. If it has power then it's the latch mechanism. If no power then it's the wiring. Does all that make sense?

If so here's the big question - wire colors at the switch plug in the drivers sill. Can anyone tell me what color wires control what, and what colors I need to jump in the plug to simulate the switch closing to actuate the rear trunk latch? I know it's a 987 question, but you guys have so much knowledge and experience here, I'm hoping someone knows. I'm guessing that it's the same as the 986, because as I get more time with the car I am very surprised at how many of the systems are identical between the 986 and 987.

I have 987 wiring diagrams but they're for a Cayman - no trunk latch that I can see on the diagram.

Thanks guys.

[seningen]

If you can pull the switch and have a multi meter, you can see which combination of pins shorts when the switch closes and is open otherwise.
If that works, then the switch is good. You can then probe the pins, should have 12v on one of them. If there’s no 12v, I’d check your fuses.
Idk if the switch controls latch directly or if there is a relay in the path.

[Doug427]

Originally Posted by seningen

If you can pull the switch and have a multi meter, you can see which combination of pins shorts when the switch closes and is open otherwise.
If that works, then the switch is good. You can then probe the pins, should have 12v on one of them. If there’s no 12v, I’d check your fuses.
Idk if the switch controls latch directly or if there is a relay in the path.

There's 6 or 8 wires at the switch, if I remember correctly. Does anyone know or have an accurate diagram of what color wire does what?