If the S is what you really want, don’t buy a base. The base model is a great car, but that’s not the point.

I bought my 550 SE in the dead of winter and had to park it at a neighbor’s house for three days because I couldn’t get it up our ice covered road on its summer tires. It was worth the trouble because I finally found and bought the car I wanted. I did have to buy it in the winter b/c I was sure it was not going to be on the market long (bought directly from a fellow enthusiast, great condition, decent price ($15,500), maintance docs, LN IMSB, etc).

Regarding the car in your OP, I’d pass. Too many red flags for me with a price that’s too high IMHO.

Buy the beater and make do until the right S comes along. It’ll happen when you’re least expecting it. Besides, the hunt and anticipation of making ‘the find’ is a big part of owning a car like this.

You can do better. It will take time and effort. That said, a couple of $K in the purchase price will be forgotten when maintainkng 15-20 year old cars with close to 100K on their odometers...think IMS, clutch, flywheel, brakes, rotors, suspension components, etc.

I don't think getting $600 off changes anything. I would be happy he turned it down (which sounds foolish to me) and move on. There are lots of Boxsters out there but it takes time to find one that has been looked after with no stories.

Thanks for the additional strengthening comments :)

Meanwhile, what is it with people who advertise cars on Craigslist?
I've been trying to contact 3 sellers for the last 2 days about local cars I'm interested in.

One answered my first call, said he was driving and would call me back later. He never did, and since then has not answered any of my calls or texts (a very nice looking 2 owner 2000 323 Ci manual).
Another didn't answer the phone, responded to my text after a day saying yes the car is for sale, but never responded on my follow up questions or request to come see the car (a 2004 Mini Cooper).
And a third didn't answer the phone or respond to my voicemail and text at all (2006 Mini Cooper)

Are there better places to look for cheap cars than Craigslist?

Never been a big CL fan...too many odd balls that just seem not really interested; sometimes I think they post out of boredom or are just phishing. I've found most of my cars on Autotrader (yes, I know), but it seems that cars listed there are by motivated sellers....maybe it's because it actually takes a bit of effort to post something for sale...lol. My 3 cars were all found on AT, and with the exception of my Boxster, all were out of state...but even my Box was 200 mi away.

Seek and you shall find. ;)

I guess it all depends. I posted two car ads on the Raleigh CL and both cars were gone inside of 4 hours. They were fairly priced, accurately described, and not even pictures. One Boxster, one Acura. Sold a set of 20 year old speakers in 3 days. All at 95% of asking price.

Are there fake ads on CL, sure. But there are good buys too.

I sell 95% of my Wheeler Dealer cars on CL. Lately been finding my WD cars there too. You just have to wade thru the riff-raff. Some sellers just aren't too accommodating. Either move on or keep trying (or both).

Bouncing this thread up again as I am looking now at a 2002 S with similar miles to the previous one, asking price $9800, IMS bearing has been changed recently. Couple of minor collisions that needed repair at the extremities. Having a PPI done locally to the seller tomorrow.

Looking at the car fax report, back in 2005 there is a note that the gearbox was removed and reinstalled.
Any idea why this might have been done? (Since then the car was kept by one owner for 8 years, and then the seller for another 2)

Thanks,
Jeremy

PS. Both this one and the previous one I had looked at had been brought as graduation gifts for daughters.
First time that someone told me a Boxster is a girl's car I laughed it off, but now I have 2 data points proving it.
Can anyone explain to me how a car like a manual Boxster S becomes a car for rich young graduates? (I'm new to America...)

If it's a standard could have been a clutch. I'm not even going to start the discussion of how that might have happened... :rolleyes:

Hmmmm.... PPI garage just called.
One of the finds is that the left transmission mount has been welded up at some point.
I'm guessing the forum's advice here is Big Red Light even before hearing the rest?

Additional Big Red Lights:
Last oil change was at a "While U Wait" type shop.
CEL light on for secondary air and O2 sensor (will wait for the written PPI report to get the codes. Not sure there's any point in paying for full diagnosis).
Sun visors/Hood struts/middle brake light all need to be replaced.
Front brake rotors need replaced (weren't changed with the pads).
Misaligned front bumper (minor accident repair), probably not OEM.

I think I will keep looking...

Big. Red. Light. ;)

It would appear that during your search, you have done due diligence. At this point my suggestion is to perhaps (pardon my bluntness) tighten your screening process...I'm not sure exactly what else to look for, but really scrutinize both the car and the seller....I hate to see you spending time and money on PPIs that you could be applying to your car budget. Don't get me wrong, a PPI is important, but it should be the last step in the purchase process.

Perhaps a screening tool would be to propose to a future seller that you want a PPI done and that you would like them to pay for it, but you will reimburse them for the cost so long as no major defects are found. If I were selling my car (and knowing the history of my car), I wouldn't have any problem with a buyer making that suggestion. In the inverse, if the seller knows of an issue, they wouldn't even consider it.

Another thought is to start looking at (warning..."D" word) dealers...they would either have done the PPI, or would be willing to as part of the sale.

In any event, best of luck....and don't stop looking.

Thanks. The fact that IMS and top were both recently replaced is what drew me to this car, and although there was not much more detailed history, I still went ahead.
Lesson learned.

I like the idea on the PPI cost. I'll try that if appropriate.

About dealers - all the (non Porsche) dealer ads I called (around 4-5) had absolutely no documentation of the car's history and had no idea if IMS had been changed, yet their asking prices were those of a car with full history.

I am in no hurry to buy - I picked up a winter beater last week - A high mileage, single owner, full service history 2007 Mazda6 V6 Manual for $2000.

Can't imagine why a trans mount would be welded, except for maybe some sort of accident/impact? Odd.

And... Good call.