Clutch replacement invoice - does it show IMS/RMS done?
 

Hello everyone,

I'm trying to find the IMS/RMS on this invoice on a 2002 Boxster S. I was told by the seller that it was done at the same time as the clutch. Well, the invoice for the clutch is attached but I don't see the IMS/RMS as a line item. Can you help me out?

Thanks!

You already know the answer.

997-101-212-01 looks to be the RMS.

996-105-024-01 comes up as the IMS flange. From the looks of the part on the Pelican website, it appears to be a flange associated with a single-row bearing.

I don't see anything that indicates that they replaced the IMS bearing though...

I actually don't but thanks for helping.

Thank you! Maybe they inspected the IMS and it looked good?

It’s not done. Probably wasn’t necessary. They don’t all break. When I had mine done at around 60k miles, my mechanic said that the old one was in great shape. Maybe I blew a couple of grand for nothing? Toss the dice.

No, they just resealed it.

RMS yes.

IMSB no.

The car had 112k miles on it.... well outside the failure window. Don't sweat it!

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I would have thought the same. Is there a mileage point where there is some level of agreement that failure is unlikely?

I'm not an expert; very new to these cars as well. However I read all over the internet that 60k miles is the magic number.
Point of fact: there are many anecdotal instances of people who changed their IMS as a precautionary measure, only to have the replacement fail shortly thereafter.

If you ask me, based on what passes for research at my house, I'd say you're safer with an unfailed original IMS at 112k miles, than you are with a recently - replaced IMS (depending on which replacement is installed, of course).

I'm in a similar position myself, with a few extra miles. I've decided that even when I do the clutch this winter, I'll probably leave the IMS well - enough alone.

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Except at some point the grease wears away in the bearing, and then what? I had my IMSB replaced at 147K, and took a good look at the bearing. The grease seals were intact, but the grease was nearly gone, leaving virtually no lubrication for the bearing.

If you are in there, you may as well replace a known failure point.

I'm really glad I replaced mine!

There is no such thing as a "failure window" to be outside of, ANY IMS can and do fail, regardless of mileage or design.

of course that's true. but there's also a preponderance of evidence to indicate that <i>most</i> fail in the mileage range discussed. A commensurate statistic exists to suggest that the likelihood of failure outside of that "window" is reduced dramatically.

JFP, you are absolutely the expert to my novice-ness (I made that word up, haha), and I would immediately bow to your superior knowledge in any arena regarding this car. I'm simply doing the math.
Many or most of us getting into the 986 NOW (when the car is 15 to 20 years old), have entered the 986 world because it's CHEAP FUN. Anything we do to start ruining the CHEAP part, also detracts from the FUN part.
ANY / EVERY used car is a gamble... I'd suggest that the number & likelihood of things that can and do go catastrophically-wrong with a used car, make the frequency of IMS-failure <i>relatively</i> insignificant.

Happy days. I just passed 100k miles.
My 2002 single row IMSB has made it
Finally a good nights sleep
Oh dang, there are 20 something more things that can take out my ride
Let the sleepless nights continue.
Oh by the way, there is no such thing as a running, derivable Porsche that is a cheap ride
BUT that is what we sign up for when we buy one

Thank you all for the help. It's disappointing it wasn't done at the time of the new clutch but it is what it is.

When I bought my 2000 S at 103,000 the previous owner had just done a clutch and replaced the seals but didn't replace the IMS since it was a dual row and the shop said it looked good. As soon as I bought the car, and before I even picked it up, I had the shop do the LN dual row ceramic retrofit and it was around $1300, so not too bad. The parts cost is the same either way, it is just the labor or dropping the transmission that is duplicated when doing the IMS separately from a clutch job. If you do replace it, you'll know that the old was in still good condition, and that it wasn't failing when the previous owner replaced it and then dumped the car.

Or do you know that it looks good and feels good but that it has all those miles of wear on it and is liable to wobble a fractional bit that you can't feel and thus, in some indeterminate number of miles, wear will catch up with it. Or have you looked at what is lubricating it and determined that 100% of its original lubrication is still there?

Are there 28 or so other failure causes? And is preventative maintenance always a crap shoot?

But if I'm close enough that I'm looking at the bearing, I'm replacing it. Although I didn't for both my single row and double row. But I was never into the junction between the trans and the engine.

Why not call the shop, reference the work number order, and ask?

JFP in PA while they had the flange off would they pop off the bearing seal, knowing the method of failure.