How much brake fluid do I need for flushing?
 

Hey guys! I'm planning on bleeding my brakes and clutch in a couple of weekends. I have a motive power bleeder on the way ($41 on Amazon - great deal) and a bleeder bottle.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but as far as I understand it the process goes:
1. Jack up car
2. Remove wheels
3. Open brake fluid reservoir cap
4. Attach power bleeder to reservoir and pump to 22 psi
5. Bleed passenger rear, driver rear, passenger front, and then driver front brakes
6. Bleed clutch

My questions are:
1. How much brake fluid do I need? It's my understanding that if the power bleeder runs dry I'll have to start all over again, so if I have too little, I'm screwed. Would 1L be enough, or should I get 2 and put them both in to be safe?
2. Is ATE Dot 4 (Part #: 000-043-203-66-M4) the correct brake fluid for the car?
3. Any other helpful tips/tricks that could help me? This is my first time attempting the job.

Thank you!

Start by lowing the power bleeder pressure to 12-15 PSIG, and you need one liter.

I always have 2 quarts/liters ready for flushing and 1 for regular bleeding. Otherwise you are right on. Finding the clutch bleed valve and getting a wrench on it is hard the first time.

If you have ABS and PSM you want to get both of them to engage after you have flushed, just to make sure that you get fresh fluid into them. The "proper" way to do it is to open them up using the Porsche diagnostics before flushing.

I would also recommend getting all of the old fluid out of the reservoir with a turkey baster or something. No sense pushing a lot of old fluid through the system.

The bleed valve on the driver side of the transmission and most accessible through the wheel well, right? What would be best - a stubby wrench or a longer one?

Also, I do not have PSM (I have no PSM off button so I'm assuming this means I don't) but I do have ABS - do I still need to do the Porsche diagnostic step?

bleed or flush? bleeding just pushes out old fluid near the calipers; flushing changes it all out.

know your torque for the bleed valves - easily stripped.
have a flare wrench to open and bleed.
have a tall socket for torquing after.
start from furthest (rear right) and finish closest (front left).

if just a bleed, you may not need to put any fluid in the bleeder - just use it to pressurize the reservoir. even with a flush, if you keep an eye on the reservoir and don't run it dry - makes clean-up easier.

I believe it is 8-10 ft.lb (or 96-120 in/lb) - I do mine at 9 ft/lb (108 in/pd).

I got that from thread on rennlist - does anyone know if this is the correct/official torque for these?

Yes, it is way up on the transmission housing. I used a small closed end wrench and got it on by feel and then put the drain tube on without removing the wrench.

No need to open the ABS with the diagnostics. Just do a couple of hard brakes that engage the ABS after you have flushed everything.

You only need to activate the PSM/ABS during a bleed/flush if you have gotten air into the system, otherwise it is unnecessary.