Sounds a little low to me but isn't the pressure switch set at 7 psi?
If it were me, I would try a heavier oil, Mobil 1 5W50 or 15W50. 5W50 is Porsche approved in our cars. You'll most likely get a couple (2-3 psi) more at hot idle. How about the oil filter? What is your setup? Stock or aftermarket?

Walmart has Mobil 1 15W50 on special for $27 for 5 quarts.

I have no idea what the sending unit is set at . Its one for a 996 has the warning light and pressure gauge. The electric gauge is not connected yet . For an air cleaner I'm using a cold air kit, Borla exhaust.Thank you all, you guys have been a great help . I have had the car for a little over a year so I think my biggest problem is I probably used oil that is to light from the start . I had no idea what was used in the car. Started with 0w-40...then 5w-40....Now was thinking 15w-50......What would you all think about a 60 weight oil ..?

I think that if you need anything more than a quality 5W-40, something is wrong with your engine.

JFP, are you refering to exesive bearing clearance or a worn oil pump?

It could be either. What is lacking here is proper "hands on" system diagnostics. If the OP has not done the oil pump piston and spring update, which was introduced specifically to address this issue, he needs to do so. If that doesn't raise the oil pressure, he needs to pull the oil pump cassette and examine the gears for pitting or excessive wear. If there is nothing wrong in the pump, the engine has become "loose", and is leaking the oil pressure internally, which requires a rebuild/replacement. But the ONLY way to know what is going on is to start looking........

I am sorry for hijacking this tread, but does the piston and spring update applies to the 3.4 987 as well..? Thanks!

You would have to check that with a good part department; at some point, the retrofit parts became the parts in the car from the factory, but that would require checking the VIN number to be sure.

Thank you JFP!

I will ask Luke at Sunset

JFP Can the oil pump be removed with the motor in the car ? I did do the oil pump bypass with updated spring and plunger .Thanks for your help sir..!

Yes, and as the cassette shares the metal gasket with the water pump, it is a good time to replace the water pump and the oil pump drive shaft which is an investment cast piece of crap that is known to snap. LN has a chrome moly replacement for about $20.

About to replace the valve/spring on mine. After installing is it recommended to "prime" the engine before starting to build oil pressure? Or is it ok to start immediately after install?

Gents,

Is there torque value reference anywhere for the oil pump pressure relief spring and piston retaining plug.....it much like a drain plug with a crush ring.

I am just changing the 986 stocker to the updated spring (996) and piston (997)...yes late to the party.

I can post an image if the item the part(s) I am referring to are not clear.

Yep the bolt/cap should be torqued to 18ft/lbs (or 25Nm)

okay thanks very much....I found a Rennlist post with a value much higher....probably mapped from the stock oil pan drain which is 37 FTBS - 50 Nm. I have not had the stock pan and plug for many years and this seems high to me.

Where the heck is this documented..

When I installed my oil pressure gauge I did some research on what the oil pressure should be, the discussion is posted in this thread.
http://986forum.com/forums/performance-technical-chat/81566-what-oil-pressure-supposed.html
Supposedly the pressure light comes on at 7 psi so you should be OK at 10 psi.

I just completed this modification and tested it. I would highly recommend after testing oil pressure light "out times" and looking at the old piston definately looks like it had been catching/rubbing on the top/leading edge of the piston. A truely awful design.

My research indicated that 50 Nm was the correct torque value.

With the car level alot of oil will drain out so don't walk away and do something else like I did.....So in having to reset the oil level I discovered that one bar above minimum on the dash gauge gives a midlevel reading on the dip stick. This was completely cold and drained as one can be. It looks like the shops I have used in the past have been overfilling the oil.

Edit: It looks like I have used that one bar with some garden driving. Will have to reset again..may try two bars above min. What does this lower level philosophy do yo this ims bearing if anything

Hats off to those able to do this in the car. Maybe a lift gives better perspective. It is tight up in there. Next time I have the firewall cover off I will look at ....but wow!