Rear right strut mount
 

Hi.
If I remove the three nuts that hold the strut from the top, will I be able to lower the strut enough to tighten the nut on the top of the strut and next a Allen wrench on top to keep the bolt from spinning? If I have to go the whole route of removing strut from car, I will send out. Not doing that again in my work space. Thanks.

Sorry i haven't looked into the space in there rear but you can't use a strut top socket?

Not sure, I just don't feel like going to the bother of taking apart just to find out I can't do whAt I want to do.

It wont drop far enough unless you loosen the camber eccentric also (mark it so if it moves too much you can set it back where it started)

Ok thanks. I had it apart recently so it shouldn't be too bad.

Dwbox, what makes you think it is loose?

I think you would have an easier time tightening it with the assembly in the car, with the car on the ground and the spring compressed by the weight. Put the convertible top in Service position (or maybe just partway down, it has been awhile) and you should have access to the strut top. With an alien wrench and a box wrench, do your tightening. Maybe 7mm and 22mm although those are wild guesses.

I took a few pics from the disassembled car I have in the garage.
I checked through my collection of Allen wrenches and didn't see anything that would be likely to clear (strut is fully bolted in).
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1511673034.jpg

Just a thought and NOT a recommendation... If I really wanted to access the strut without pulling anything off the bottom, I'd drill through the bottom of the clamshell pan and plug it after I was done. Maybe a slight risk of water penetration, but I don't think it's damaging to the structure.
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1511673488.jpg

I see now, loosening/removing those 3 nuts would probably drop the strut enough to get an allen wrench in there...

I was thinking of when I had my ksports which were flush with the body.

you might be able to counter hold the strut shaft underneath with a strap wrench or a rubber strip or something that wouldn't mar the surface?

Thanks for the replies. I have a small noise in the rear right quarter when the car moves. I jacked up and shook everything around. The only noise I got was when I put a 2x4 under wheel and I bounced up and down. It might also just be the sealing ring. It wasn't in the best of shape when I put the car strut back in the last time. I remember thinking I should replace. My gut is the mount is good. The car only has 53k on it and doesn't appear to have had a rough life. Now the eccentric bolt is on the track arm right? That shouldn't be so bad to loosen. I will mark and loosen. Any suggestion on how to torque? Can I put the torque on the Allen wrench and just a wrench on the nut. Hold the Allen in place and turn the nut with the wrench? Would it still click?

Yes, that's how I do it. Use a box end wrench to hold the nut and a hex head socket that attaches to your torque wrench.

There are some sockets with an open side that can be used on the nut combined with an allen key but most of us DIY's don't own such a socket.

The info you need for the eccentric bolts is in this post including torques:
http://986forum.com/forums/diy-project-guides/63154-replacing-rear-suspension-bracket.html

Without removing the strut, I don't think you are going to be able to do a proper torque. Probably the best you can do is estimate. Here's what my old shop manual has for strut torques:

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1511705808.jpg

Thanks for the post. So am I loosing 2 eccentric bolts? One on control arm, one on tracking arm?

There are 2 eccentric bolts on the back, one on the toe arm, and one on the lower control arm (coffin arm), that is the one to loosen to lower the strut. However, since you are just dropping it about 2 inches, I bet it it will all drop that much just from the weight of the wheel hanging. If not, then go under and loosen it.

I did all 4 of my struts with no torque wrench, just box wrench and Allen socket on a 3/8 breaker bar and just made it nice and tight. It was with with the springs compressed. With the wheel hanging you will be working against the spring, if you can fit a spring compressor in the wheel well and compress the spring you will have an easier time tightening.

You can also get the space you need by removing the bolt that attaches the 'coffin arm' to the subframe without messing the excentric bolt ot the ball joints..