I ordered the parts from Pelican today and a flex 10mm socket, which seems to be the trick for those pesky water pump bolts.

I did clean out the radiators today.
They look like that had never been done, or at least not in a long, long time.
But, the driver side air dam disintegrated when I unbolted it - cracked down the middle.
Not completely in half, so I should be able to salvage it for a little while as I proceed along to see what's going on. The plastic mush have been so dry and brittle from all those miles a few inches off the road in the hot dry air that it just gave way.

Pretty minor, all things considered.

One question, depending on what I find with the water pump (shot bearing is what I'm thinking) do I want to flush the car with a garden hose and tap water or fill it with distilled water completely, run it, drain it, and then put in the 50/50 mix?

I'm holding good thoughts on this working out.

Perhaps, I missed it by not reading every post.

I would think a mechanic could pressure test the cooling system and narrow down the source of the leak. With such information in hand, one could decide what things to do 1st, 2nd, etc.

Some of you may be sick of reading this, but here goes.

I pulled out the water pump and thermostat today.
Tested the thermostat in a pot of boiling water and it opened, so I know that works.

The water pump did have a blade or two that appeared to have had some of the blade sanded down a bit. Nothing too major, but when I compared it to the new pump and used a magnifier, it really looks like it to me.

I'm going to flush the car a few times tomorrow and see what happens.
I'm really not quite sure how anything will be any different as the thermostat is good, the pump bearing spins fine and other than a barely noticeable amount of impeller being sanded off, nothing's changed.

Will a new pump and thermostat, coolant overflow cap, flush, fill, and I also cleaned out a small village of hobbits worth of crap out of the radiators (which I'm sure was blocking some air flow) make any difference or do I have bigger problems?

The coolant had no oil in it and was pink and the oil was dark, but did not have coolant in it when I changed it a few days ago.

I'm keeping my fingers crossed that the coolant overflow will stop.

I will know more tomorrow and thanks for the help and encouragement.

I now know how to do a thermostat and water pump!

Absolutely not my friend, you got it all wrong! Anything car related is good to go here. I'm enjoying reading your updates in fact. Sure it will be 10x more exiting to read when you'll finally fixed it tough :D

Don't give up is all I can propose! Also proposing a pressure test on the system to ensure it is water tight. Slight drop of pressure in that thing and the heat is going to take over and will eventually manage to piss out all of that pink stuff (entirely, if not careful refilling regularly lolll). Got to be sealed correctly.

Just do it!

Rob,
Just take your time and ensure that the system is properly bleed…
Good luck

Well, this can't be good.
I buttoned everything up and started to fill the coolant tank with distilled water.

As soon as I started the engine, water started flowing out of the overflow hose.
That's the ONLY place that I can see water coming from.
I got on my knees with the rear in the air and looked with a flashlight.

As the engine got warmer, it started to flow more.
I shut it down. I didn't even try to get it up to temperature.
As it was running, I could hear a sucking sound coming from the overflow hole in the tank. I put my finger in the hole and felt suction.

This may be a dumb question, but if the tank can't hold pressure, would it dump into the overflow tube or is the cooling system itself under too much pressure and dumps out coolant as soon as the engine is on?

I don't think it's burping, because it's a steady flow. Not a once in a while thing.
Can the bleeder valve be bad? Would that cause these symptoms?

So the tank may be the problem.
What would cause the overflow to just keep gushing on the other side of the firewall?
Does this mean that the tank is unable to hold pressure and it's bad?
The mechanic told me that the cap vents steam into the overflow hose in case of high pressure.
I have water flowing out of the overflow hose.
What else goes into that overflow hose?
I have yet to find a decent picture that explains the connections on the inside of the firewall and where each hose comes from and goes to.

A pressure test, I know. I don't have one.

The one in there is "The German" one from Pelican and is still under warranty.
I think I was charged about $600 to have it put in.

The real existential dilemma is it's a salvage title Boxster with 145k on it.
How much more $$ do I put in at this point?
If I can drive it to the junk man, I'll get $1400. If they come get it $900.
If I replace the tank, will it last or does it have "hot spots" that are going to crack on me and is the $$ better spent on more reliable car for now?

Ugh.

https://www.amazon.com/Stant-12270-Cooling-System-Pressure/dp/B0002SRGWU/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1505006467&sr= 1-1&keywords=Stant+12270+30+Pound+Cooling+System

Buy it, use it then sell it on ebay. Pressurizing your system will tell you in minutes where the problem lies.

Ignore the obvious advice and keep posting otherwise.

Thanks. A number of people have suggested this.

But.....This morning on a stone cold car, I went to pour in some distilled water and it immediately comes out the overflow hose above the right rear tire.

Does this mean the tank is bad?
When the previous tank went bad, the trunk was flooded with coolant.
Most of what I read on these boards says that is the symptom of a bad tank.
But my trunk is dry.
Can they crack or split on the inside of the firewall or in the drain flow path?

I can get a pressure tester from Autozone as a loaner, but it's a $250 deposit and a 2 hour bus ride (No second car)
Or I can buy one as suggested, but is it necessary at this point?

The more I can learn here the better before I do anything else.

I'm a recovering cancer patient, getting low on $$ and need help.

Thank you.

Perhaps there are other 986 enthusiasts in the LA area who can loan Rob an extra set of eyes and hands on this? I'm surprised that hasn't happened yet.

I think I finally found the culprit!
After a few times of trying to flush and bleed with just distilled water, I saw flow from under the bleeder valve! I guess it wasn't a big enough leak to be visible until I ran it for a few cycles.

Now I do have a few questions on replacing the valve.

Is it a good idea to put silicone or any kind of sealant on the threads of the screws?

Can anyone report success stories on replacing just the valve? The mechanic says he doesn't replace only the valves as he's had too many problems with them.

I see that they need to be handled with kid gloves or it's new tank time.

I'm really hoping that this solves the problem.

Thanks for the help.

Congrats! I think you can get it done without too much trouble now...

Check out Jon Slocum's post about a coolant leak. Near the bottom of post #63.
http://986forum.com/forums/boxster-general-discussions/59015-1st-boxster-7th-porsche-we-now-have-4-family-4.html
I also remember it being discussed (with parts) in another thread... maybe JFP in PA detailed it.

Thanks!
We will know in a few days.

Try replacing the O-rings first- it worked for me! I was able to source them at a local hydraulics repair shop. No need to seal the screws with anything - just don't over tighten them. Good luck!

Be very carefull with the screws. They go into plastic and strip very easily. I didnt use any to of antiseize or watever. The best advice I got was on here....rotate screws counter clockwise until it clicks into original bore then tighten down only to snug. The O- rings do the sealing. Cross your tightening pattern to insure even seating. Disclaimer I am a cook not a mechanic. Good Luck. Still had to bleed air after completion

Thanks, I just got the valve today and am going to install it in the morning.
Does anyone know if it needs to be installed with the bail in the "open" position?
I saw that mentioned in this thread, but nowhere else
https://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?app=forums&module=forums&controller=topi c&id=14754
I also saw that using some silicone grease or even dish soap on the o rings is a good idea. Any comments on that?
The biggest thing it looks like to me is to go very easy on the screws and to twist them backwards until I feel the pop of the threads and then tighten them down.
Thanks and I'll let you know what happens.

Replaced the bleeder valve today, filled it with distilled water, burped it, and drove it like I stole it for a bit.

No leaks, no temperature issues.

I may have dodged a bullet here.

Thanks for the help and encouragement.

I'm new to the world of Pcars.

I think the problem is solved.

Tomorrow I'll pour in the unicorn tears.

I LOVE my Boxster.

Great to hear! Enjoy. It feels better when you fix it yourself.

Outstanding :cheers:

Yes indeed..!

There are many knowledgeable and supporting people here, Congratulations!

Congratulations. Drive it like you work on it.