It is just semantics, but the alternator clutch/pulley did not shear off, it spun off. If it had sheared the shaft, you would have a snapped off alternator shaft. It looks to me like you could just install a new clutch/pulley assembly and it would be OK. The alternator has a one-way clutch on it so it will continue to spin and not throw the belt when you shift. This is kind of unique and not usually seen on other cars. What may have happened is that the clutch seized (they do fail occasionally) and when you shifted the momentum of the alternator unscrewed the pulley from the shaft and the pulley fell away. Normally the one-way clutch would slip in that situation, as it was designed to do. After that, the temperature and pressure in the cooling system got so high that the weakest point failed (that plastic fitting) and the cooling system blew. I don't understand why the cap wouldn't vent though...

That is my theory anyway. I bet if you look where this happened you will find the pulley pretty much intact on the street.

To the Idie
 

I've decided to have the idie take a look at things.
Yes, I could probably do the work and save the labor cost, but what's really important to me is his opinion once the engine runs again and gets up to temp.
I really hope I didn't kill my car.
I'll report back this afternoon.
You guys have been most helpful in gathering the info before deciding what to do.
So it's basically spend the $$, roll them bones, and see what's next....

This was my point -- it did not look like it sheared to me...

My guess is you will be back on the road in no time --

Mike

The waiting is the worst part...
 

I just dropped off the car.
We will see what he says in the next day or two.

This message board and it's members are invaluable.
Thanks to all of you!

You can trust Woody with used parts. He's been a supplier to us and we have always been treated VERY well. Don't get overcharged with "factory" parts....

Agreed
 

No question Woody has been most helpful in helping me figure out what to do.
He is a good man and a valuable resource to all of us.

Looks like I killed it....
 

Got the car back from the mechanic. New alternator pulley and clutch, new belt, fixed hose leak. He told me he brought it up to temperature and it didn't leak or overheat.
He even told me that he drove it. I drove it for maybe an hour and there didn't seem to be any problems. I thought that I had dodged a bullet. The temp gauge never got above 195 the whole time, even when I got home.

Then as soon as I got home and pulled into the garage and stopped the motor, I heard a hissing sound and coolant leaking out onto the floor by the passenger rear wheel. The inside of the trunk was dry, as well.

Not a whole lot of coolant leaked out, but it doesn't look good, does it?
What would the symptoms of a blown head gasket be?
Isn't there a coolant overflow back there? Am I deluding myself thinking that it just may have been spitting out some overflow?
I can't call the mechanic until the morning, but what should I look for in the mean time?

edit: I just looked again, the oil is clean the coolant is pink and there does not appear to be any intermix.
Is it possible it's just burping out air or am I delusional?

there is an overflow tube located by passenger rear wheel. I think that there might be air trapped in the system and it has to be bled. Wait for the experts to chime in. In the meantime do search air trapped and how to use the bleeder valve on top of coolant tank. Again I could be totally wrong but I have been down that road. How much coolant?They say to drive thru a couple heat cycles with valve open. My solution was to back up on ramps and run to purge....worked great. Good Luck and I am sure you will be fine soon!

The Mechanic said he drove it.....strange he didn't hear the hissing and see coolant on the shop floor Something is not right.....How much collant leaked on the floor?

amount of coolant
 

Maybe a 1/2 cup of coolant. Enough to be noticeable. The hissing sound is what caught my attention.
The mechanic is Rob Wessels at Dutch Treat here in LA. He's supposed to be very good and seems like a decent guy, so I don't think that's an issue.

I'm really disappointed and concerned.
I don't know what's going on now.
I'm a recent cancer survivor, I was laid off during treatment and I bought this car as a celebratory gift and project to bring myself (and the car) back to life.
At this point do I sell it as is and get out from under it? Keep a close eye on things, try driving it locally a bit more tomorrow and try to see what's going on?
Would a failing head gasket do this? Did the overheating it kill it and it's dying a slow death? Or is it just in need of more burping?
It ran fine, no loss of power or any issues, didn't budge the temp gauge, just started pissing a bit when I got home.
What do I do?

Watch your oil and coolant for intermixing and watch for excessive coolant and oil usage. If everything seems normal over the next few weeks, you're probably in the clear. You seem very quick to want to label the motor as being blown. Don't throw in the towel just yet. While driving a car with blinking lights for 20-30 minutes is very very bad, you more than likely dodged a bullet. I'm guessing you still have air in the system. Find the steepest hill you can find, park your car nose down and open the bleed valve.

Have you contacted the mechanic about your problem? If it were me I would take the car back to him and let him check out the problem. Remember he said it didn't overheat or leak......

I'm with the possible air still in the system camp. However is the coolant expansion tank cap the one that was on during the overheating event? If so it could be weak, I'd replace.

Not giving up just yet....
 

Yes, that is the original cap that was on during the meltdown. I removed all of the carpet from the trunk before I took the car in to the mechanic. I had the tank replaced by him about a month ago. I left the carpet out. When it was spewing yesterday the trunk was dry. I wondered if the meltdown had cracked the bottle or not. If the cap were the culprit, wouldn't the trunk have coolant in it?
Yesterday the coolant was definitely coming from above the passenger rear wheel somewhere. I just looked again after letting the car cool overnight and very little coolant came out. The level in the bottle is a bit low, but not drained or even well below the min mark. I started the car briefly and it started right up and seemed ok.
I know that the mechanic's shop is in a very flat area and I drove it up hills yesterday, which is where I live. He gets in shortly, I'm going to call him. The biggest thing is of course it's a 3 day weekend, he's closed Monday and so is Pelican (local to me)

I'm a recent cancer survivor, I was laid off during treatment and I bought this car as a celebratory gift and project to bring myself (and the car) back to life.
At this point do I sell it as is and get out from under it? Keep a close eye on things, try driving it locally a bit more tomorrow and try to see what's going on?

Hey I'm also a cancer survivor and bought this car after 3 years of being free from that disease. The thing is do like itsnotanova said and give that a try before giving up I also had my share of problems with mine. Don't forget you didn't give up on life so don't give up on the car.

Thanks Frank!
 

Good encouragement!
Thank you.

If the cap leaks the coolant collects and runs down the overflow tube behind the pass tire, as you reported seeing, you may also see condensation on the trunk lid above the tank. When the tank leaks coolant collects in the trunk.

Thanks.
Ordering a new cap then.

Well It's cheap so yeah, but I'm only giving thought to things to check. The purge valve can also leak in this same area and was also exposed to the meltdown and could now be compromised. You will want to remove that plastic cover over the expansion tank and attempt to identify the leak point. As an FYI the cap is very easy to cross thread.

It's back to the mechanic this morning. I'll keep you posted.

It just keeps getting better.....I brought it in to him leaking coolant from the overflow. He suggested that it might be the cap. We changed the cap and I drove home. It's still not circulating properly and sending the heated coolant out the overflow. He now says that something in the circulation system was cooked by the overheating. The water pump, the thermostat, where the impeller blades connect to the pump shaft may have melted, radiator, broken impeller pieces blocking coolant channels, etc. etc.
I'm really at a loss here now.
The temperature gauge does not register overheating, but it's obviously leaking and something is wrong.
I'm trying to get back on my feet from surviving cancer, unemployed, and no more money to put into this car right now (or at all?)
At what point do I walk away or keep dumping money into it?
The engine seems to run fine and after letting it cool off for about an hour I can see that the coolant tank is only about 1/3 full (of course 3/3 full would be way too much. Point is a fair amount of coolant came back out the overflow and something is wrong.
Should I cancel the insurance, keep it garaged, and slowly save up and fix the cheapest thing first (thermostat?) or is there just going to be so much collateral damage from the meltdown that I walk away and sell it as a roller?
Another mechanic I just talked to told me to have the test done for hydrocarbons in the coolant. If there are, he said to walk away. He also said that the coolant is circulating, since the gauge is not showing abnormal readings or overheating and that it could still be more air in the system.
Please offer advice. I'm desperate.