Electrical Woes
 

I'm having electrical issues with my 2000 Boxster S.

My windows drop when the doors are opened, but they do not respond to the window controls. They do not come down when the Convertible top handle is pulled.

The doors do not lock or unlock with the console button or the remote. I can only lock the driver door.

The defrost button does not respond.

I replaced the C3 and D1 fuses even though they looked and tested good.

I'm getting 13 volts (when the car is on) at the C3 and D1 positions.
I pulled the console and tested voltage to the switches and couldn't find any voltage between any two of the many wires going to each switch.

I replaced the module under the driver seat with a new one from Suncoast Porsche and had my local dealer reprogram the new one from the old one's data. The only difference is that my convertible top started working soon after that.

I read in other postings about SPDT relays that are just above the fuses, but I can't find any information about which relay would be affecting these components.

Any ideas on next steps?

There is one component that all of your issues have in common: the immobilizer.
If you're positive that it is not damaged, and you had water damage in the previous unit, I would suspect that the car side immobilizer connectors have some corrosion.

When my ignition switch was crapping out, there were all kinds of random electrical gremlins that would come and go by the hour; radio, windows, top, locks, a/c.

If that's the case, I think VW make the same switch for much less money.

Same here for ignition switch. One car had the interior lights staying on all the time. Another car, the AC and the radio would not work sometimes after starting the car, other times they were fine.

Given your history with your immobilizer, it certainly cannot be dismissed and may well be the reason your experiencing your issues. If you haven't changed your ignition switch, its a $15 part that seems like a PIA to replace (the first time) but really isn't too bad after all.

I had my ignition switch fail as well. What clinched the diagnosis was that everything (notably the AC, but other electrics as well) would work properly if instead of letting the switch spring back to its running position on its own I manually tweaked it and found a position where everything worked again. Not a hard job, but a pain in the butt as access is tight. Search the forum for tips and techniques if it is the switch