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Changing oil
Going to try and change my oil. 1st one since I've owned it. Sticker in trunk says says Mobile 1. Any filter recommendations?
2003 with 40k. Canister filter, may change to a screw on in the future unsure. Thanks in advance. |
Just use the factory Mann, HU719/5 x filter. Don't forget to buy crush washers for the oil fill plug.
Nothing special about Mobil 1. Use any Porsche A40 approved 5W-40 synthetic oil. I used Liqui Moly 2332 Leichtlauf last time (German oil for a German car.) The time before I used Motul 8100x-cess (popular on forums.) |
I've had great success with Mann filters and both Liqui Moly and Motul oil. Mobile 1 is great but overrated compared to those mentioned and others.
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The Mann or Hengst filters are fine along with any good brand of oil meeting the A40 requirements. Mobil 1 and Castrol are the easiest to find at your local auto parts and will work fine for a street driven car.
Here is a link to the Porsche A40 approved oils: https://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/923972-new-2015-list-of-porsche-approved-a40-oils-and-a-strange-change.html (Note: after downloading the file, change the file type to .docx to view properly). |
Buy a new canister and filter combination from the dealer, it costs about 25 or $30 which is not much more than what the cost of a filter is at the dealer. The reason you want a new canister is because if there is an oil pressure relief valve in the canister that tends to go bad after many many years. Cheap insurance.
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Thanks for all the great info. The previous owner told me the oil had just been changed but I want to make sure.
I'll probably get that kit online or next time I get near a dealer. Closest dealership is about 70 miles away 😐 |
Use a Wix/Napa Gold 7211 cartridge filter.
Most cartridge filters are made entirely from paper, and the ends can sometimes delaminate/detach (rare) and let oil get through without being filtered. The Wix/Napa one have plastic end caps, which eliminates one more potential issue. They cost the same as other paper filters, about $10. |
The big issue is getting the fill quantity correct .Lots of Posts about overfilling -bad consequences.
The other very important issue is to inspect in the pleats for tell-tale debris |
One minor point, if you purchase one of those plastic Oil drain containers to catch the old oil, make sure you OPEN the vent valve so the oil drains as fast as it exits the vehicle. I ended up with a nice puddle under my car and made a 15min job a 30 minute cleanup effort! Doh!
I hate when I do stupid things like that. |
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Keep in mind also that when it first starts to flow it REALLY splashes. Starting a good while back, I started doing this: I cut a plastic, 1-gal milk jug down, removing the top (handle) and bottom portions, so I basically have a maybe 6" square "cylinder" that I set onto the collection container surface. I'm not 100% accurate every time, but I aim the stream towards the middle of that...it helps a lot with that splashing.
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Or get one of these
the entire area under the cover is a screened opening no splashing https://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-FloTool-11837-Quart-Drain/dp/B00004X13X I put it in a low plastic container just in case of a spill Sterilite - 1655: 28 Quart Storage Box |
I like to use large Puppy Training Pads layed out around my oil container. The soak up any drips or spills. I also drop the filter onto a pad - they can soak up a lot!
Also check oil filter. |
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changing oil before winter storage
I have been convinced that changing oil before winter storage is best.
What about changing oil again in the spring with no startups or miles on the oil.. Does it oxidize just setting in the crankcase? Is this a bad thing?? |
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