CV boot oozing
 

Well I just discovered black grease sprayed over the inside of the passenger rear wheel. The outer boot is not cracked, but it looks like the grease is oozing out between the outside boot and the big diameter. I can move the boot pretty easily and so it looks like the steel clamp is not tight enough. After looking at it again, it appears as if this axle has been replaced by the previous owner with an aftermarket non Porsche unit since the outer boot looks larger.

It looks exactly like this OP Parts unit that another site sells.
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1494200516.jpg

So..... should I:

Pull the axle, refill with grease and replace the clamp?
Or buy a new aftermarket axle since the escaping grease may have compromised the CV joint?
Or buy a used LA dismantler axle and rebuild with CV joint and boots?

if you're not getting any signs of a problem you could either pull the boot back and put some more grease in, the replace the clamp, or, if there's not a huge amount of grease been thrown out, just replace the clamp.

If you pull the boot off, you need to clean it the CV really well and then repack and new boot and clamps. If all the grease was gone, you should probably replace the axle

Mine was just replaced with a FEQ one which costs under $150. Many of the non factory ones don't fit well and some are too big to fit in the hub.
My indy mechanic who also tracks his Boxster has been very happy with the FEQ quality an uses them himself

Also note, some axles are hollow at the hub end and will squirt some greese out when new

CV Boot leak
 

Thanks NewArt.

Upon further investigation, I found that this is a common occurrence for tracked cars.

There is an article here on how to re-pack and re-clamp a boot.
Leaking CV Boots - Repack and Clamp - Articles

Should be able to do this without removing the axle ( I hope:eek:)

Very cool link, I have been spitting out some grease through the hollow end of the axles, this looks like an easier way to add some grease rather than pulling the axle and doing it that way (my boots are in good shape still)

The hollow end is how they pack the CVs when they manufacture the axels

Funny that you post about this ..... because I notice the same grease spitting on my 2002 base and I just replaced the clamps yesterday. I used the same clamps as the one in the article. I simply removed the old clamps and replaced. The lost of grease is not important enough for repacking in my case.

Well today the decision was made for me:eek:

On my way to work, the CV joint started making that dreaded clumping noise, faint at first, then louder, and I knew exactly what it was, so I turned around and drove back home, hoping I would make it, using the surface streets. I made it back and drove the Bimmer to work.

I ordered the FEQ axle with 2 day shipping. I can not get myself to pay $900 for an OEM one. I already got the old axle out and it was a pretty simple task. The hardest part was getting a big enough breaker bar and pipe extension to break loose the axle nut:eek: Upon inspection, the grease was completely liquefied in the outer CV joint. I'm really surprised at how much heat even the rear brakes generate to get that grease liquid like that. The inner one was OK, but it looks like those stamped sheet metal caps don't seal it well, so it probably could leak out there too if it gets hot enough. One thing I noticed was that the axle transmission flange bolts were not tight and I didn't have to break them loose. Source of vibration?

My thought is to replace the grease with the Redline CV-2 high performance grease. I'll see if the boot clamps are standard size. Is the Redline CV-2 available in stores?

Did this a couple of years ago
 

I broke a breaker bar on one of those axel nuts.....the other side my Craftsman Battery Powered 115 ft lb impact driver spun it right off....try that

Probably worth while to retorque the transmission flange bolts occasionally.

How I removed my axle nuts is with a very stout 3/4 breaker bar from HF, and then I used my floor jack on the end of the handle to lift it up and provide the loosening power.

For the transmission flange bolts, when I had the axle off I rolled up a piece of a blue paper shop towel and shot some brake cleaner on it, and then threaded it through the bolt holes and twisted it around to make sure that there was no grease in there. Then I used thread insensitive Loctite on the bolts and torqued them up, so far they have been holding good.

IIRC, the axle nuts should be replaced and are torqued to 350 ftlbs

The problem with removing the boots to 'upgrade' the grease is the clamps. The surfaces need to be completely clear of any grease or they will slide off in use.You won't notice and .. a big mess.
The best clamps are Oetiker but they need a special tool to tighten correctly.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W1qTw8OmbMA
There ar alternative clamps. Pelican sell the clamps and tool. I bought a special tool that is tighted with a ratchet because of access issues with the axle fitted to the car.On the bench it is easy.

You can also screw band clamps. Provably not the best for long term, but certainly for a quick repair. I have seen some use them long term, makes it easier to repack

Yes, but only the "Norma" type that don't chew into the rubber.
I agree, they are easier and more readily available but there must be a reason they were not used initially? Risk of the screw hed catching on something?

I'm going to say it's because of efficiency at the factory in assembling the CV joints. It's much easier to use one of their small clamps with the right tool. I've used the radiator hose clamps on CV boots and they work perfectly.

By "radiator clamps" - you mean worm-drive, not Mubea(Constant tension spring) type(which is what Porsche us for radiator hose clamps ? I ask because the Constant tension clamps also need a speial tool to compress.