Bolt for wish bone breaking loose
 

I'm having issue trying to tighten the inboard rear wish bone bolt. It keeps breaking loose during test drive. The suspension was loaded when tightening the bolt.

Thoughts?

Tried using Loctite?

Should I use blue or red?

Also do you go with OEM wish bone or there are similar part will do. I don't see TRW available anymore.

Is 987 or 997 part interchangeable with 986?

I guess first question, is the bolt you are referring to the one with the eccentric head and washer used to adjust camber, and is it intact? The bosses the eccentric heads butt against intact? Or has someone replaced with a plain bolt and washer?

The bolt and the washer is intact. Actually the washer and bolt is stucked. I cannot remove the bolt as it is stuck to the bushing sleeve. Need to bring to the shop.

My apologies for the late reply. First question, did you torque the bolt to 74 lb/ft with the suspension loaded? There should be no need for locktite, this is the normal camber adjustment point. As far as the bolt being seized in the bushing tube this is a problem with camber adjustment but shouldn't cause the bolt to loosen. Reason being, the tube thru the bushing is "crushed" between the frame attachment points and does not move once properly torqued, therefore should transfer no rotational force to the bolt. The bushing allows control arm movement as the wheel travels up and down.
So all that being said, this is what I'd do. But the boilerplate legalize requires me to inform you if you do the following you may die.
So jack the car up. place on jack stands. Remove the wheel. Mark the eccentric so you can return if necessary. Loosen the adjustment nut. Do not remove nut just good and loose. Now turn the head of the eccentric to see if the bolt is truly seized. If it is you may also see the mark you made change as you loosen. Now load the suspension, if the bolt is free return your marks, if stuck leave where it is and torque the nut. Put tire back on and test drive. Now go get the car aligned.
Good Luck and hope the bolt is not seized, the bolt needs to be able to rotate freely within the tube so no preload is put into the bushing when adjusting camber.

The spacer is seized with the bolt. When I turn the bolt, the spacer turns too. The notch is the spacer is not aligned with the bolt.

I'm going to try to tighten it again in the next hour or so and report back.

Ok now I am confused. The only notch I know of is the machined groove in the adjustment bolt. One end of the bolt has an eccentric and head as part of the bolt. The other end has an eccentric washer that has a tab in the id that fits in the machined groove in the bolt. This tab and groove aligns the floating washer with the fixed end eccentric, so rotating the fixed end rotates the floating end in direct relation to each other. Is this what you're referring to?

Had time to find a picture showing how the adjustment bolt is made.

Porsche Boxster 986 Control Arm Toe / Camber Bolt - 996.331.217.02 | eBay

Yup, thats the bolt had problem trying to remove because the eccentric washer is stuck to the bolt.
The last time I test drove the car, the back was push to the left.

I jusst went out to check the eccentric and it is still tight after I last tighten it..

But now it was the bolt from the front track arm to the wish bone which loose. Tighten it and will test drive shortly. fingers crossed.

Man I have to remind you to BE CAREFUL. The camber adjustment affects toe on these cars. Increasing camber increases toe out. Rear wheel toe out can cause instability and control issues. Since everything is moving you can not know what is happening with alignment. I highly recommend you get this in and have it aligned.

Yup, thas for the help.