Help Selecting Rotors
 

This is kind of a follow on to my previous post about http://986forum.com/forums/general-discussions/64536-when-replace-brake-pads.html

Now it looks like I will also replace the rotors (Disc brakes) at the same time that I replace my pads. I looked back in the records I have for the maintenance that was done on the car, and I see no mention of any brake work other than a flush done in October 2015. The car has 37,200 miles on it (1997). That's either super good brake performance and life or it was done at one point along its life and I just don't know about it. Either way, I have no idea what rotors are on it now other than is the solid metal looking type (no air holes).

I'd like some help selecting front rotors that would marry well with the Textar non-ceramic pads I just received from Pelican. I'd prefer to spend less than $100.00 each rotor, but not locked into that. The car is kind of a daily driver for me (every other day on average). I expect that to be the case for the next 6 months. After that I imagine I'll end up driving it more. 80% of my daily driving is on the highway.

Looking at Pelican Parts, it seems like the Sebro Slotted & Coated, Zimmermann, Ate and Bosch are the top contenders. Do I want the kind with holes in it? They look cooler (no pun). I know nothing about picking out rotors that match pads (Textar) that suit my driving. I don't track the car (but I'm guessing you probably all know that by my ignorance here).

Help!!

I'm in the hunt for rotors as well, but my 2002 S is mostly an occasional driver with occasional track duty. I've looked at the Sebro slotted ones, but it seems to be difficult to find other slotted rotors. They all seem to be cross-drilled, and I'm told those could crack under track braking stress. I really don't want to pay $250 per rotor...

Check OReilly's. They have (or had) some Bosch rotors with zinc hats that I bought for the front of my Cayman last yr. They've been great (have run DEs at COTA & Indy with them) and they were only $83 ea.

Rotors are just metal so cheapies usually perform the same way as the others. Where you can have improvements is in cooling for track use such as having curved vanes in them etc.. Those drilled holes are just for reducing the weight of a rotor and only crack at the holes prematurely. Rotors can have coatings as already mentioned like zinc (galvanizing) on the rotor hats that keep the hats from rusting. If you are not tracking the car just buy the cheapest rotor you can get as you will never know the difference. It is best if you know how to properly bed the pads in as improper seating right after you put them on is what warps rotors and creates problems. Essentially you need to get them through a few heat cycles without coming to a complete stop (if you stop completely is when the pads will warp the rotor) Just find a good road that you can get the car up to speed and stop hard a few times without coming to a full stop to get heat in the rotors, do this for a couple times to get some heat cycles through them but do not stop just slow and hit the gas again. Once you have done that a few times drive for a little bit to let them cool off again and you are good to go.

I go 60 -> 20 ten times, then drive several contiguous miles to bed in and cool my pads.

Also, be sure to have the spray to remove the coating off the new rotors. They have a film on them to prevent rusting and you need to remove it before driving. Your pads will become glazed if you do not remove it.

I just bought a set of Meyle's for ~$175 shipped off Ebay.

they are cross drilled -- and I do track it a lot -- I'll just keep an eye on them.

Even if they do end up cracking -- it's about 1/2 the price of any other rotor set.

Now I'm looking for pads -- I haven't checked my current ones - but
they are Cool-Carbons -- and I liked them -- can get front and rear for about $280 at ECS.

Mike

My understanding; Current metallurgy makes cross drilling unnecessary. Back in the day, cross drilling helped to keep rotors from warping and cooler. But cross drilling and slots also give gases, that are generated under heavy braking, an escape route. They also help in wet weather driving.

Nothing wrong with switching to change the look either. Make sure the drilled rotors are for your car. Some of the drilled are specifically for the S's and won't fit on a base. Verify the diameters.

+1 BWDZ's suggestion that you bed the new pads to the new rotors. Take the time to do it, I think you will be surprised what a difference it makes. If you buy 'sporty' pads, the manufacturer will have the procedure available.

This forum is awesome!!

Thank you...

Is it weird that I'm LOOKING forward to the day I need to spend money on maintenance and fix my car?? Never happened before! I'm disappointing that I will not be working on my brake pads this weekend. Now I will wait for the current pads to trigger the sensor light.

Thank you all.

Not all rotors are created equally! I found a set of four drilled and slotted rotors for $100 (including shipping!) on eBay. They look really cool, and for street driving they work fine, but for track use they don't cut the mustard. Once they get hot, they warp like crazy, causing severe juddering under braking. Once they cool off, they are fine.

For street use, you can get away with cheap rotors, but if you plan on stressing them, get some good quality rotors.

The zinc hats are well worth the money. They prevent the rotors from seizing by eliminating rusting of the hat.

Anker

These are excellent , it is what I run on my Boxster

Well since my home track is CoTA -- I'll know pretty soon -- but in the big scheme of things $175 is a cheap experiment.

Will let folks know how they do throughout next year.

M

I am running the Bosch Quietcast on mine as well, doing great so far, I got mine from Amazon but could have saved a few bucks getting from O'Reilly.

Hey Boomer -

Now that we have your rotors picked out, you'll need 2 items to make the removal of your old rotors go better:

1. A can of Aero Kroil to spray on the 2 retaining screws. Let it sit for a while (over night is the best) to let it penetrate the threads. AK is better than WD40.

2. One of those screwdrivers that will turn counter-clockwise when you strike it with a hammer. You'll probably need this type of screwdriver to get the 2 screws loose per rotor.

Remember - it's not a project unless you have to buy a new tool. ;)

Here's a pic of the aforementioned screws:
http://i67.tinypic.com/9i4w8z.jpg

+10000000000

Then a little anti-seize when you re-install those screws and they will come out easy next time... I took my old screw to lowes/home depot and bought a bag of stainless replacements for like $1

I'm sure your Meyles will be fine, they are a known quality supplier. My $100 eBay specials are no-name-cheap-made-in-China specials.

I have been running the Meyle drilled rotors from ebay at around ~$75-$85 per axle for over a year and have done at least 13 track days on them and they are fine, no cracks at all.