Is the inner eccentric bolt on the lca released? If not that is holding it up. That bolt clamps the rubber bushing, that's why the suspension has to be loaded into when tightening that bolt.

If that bolt is removed, see if the axle is hitting the exhaust. Removing the axle bolts on the transmission side may give you more room.

Thanks Steve. The axles are disconnected from tranny. Should I just put a jack under wheel carrier and anothe under lca bolt at body, remove bolt and lower. Will it need force to come out of the body mount or should I expect it to just drop? Thanks getting close.

DWBOX, did you remove the brake caliper as well?

Yes, only attachment to car is lca to body. One bolt each side.

Remove that bolt :) you can jack under the wheel carrier or just remove the 3 strut nuts and lower it down and let the wheel carrier rest on the ground. Make sure not to pull too hard on the ebrake cable, should be plenty of slack :) you are close...

3 nuts at mount are off. Good tip on the cable. I wouldn't have thought of that.
Here goes.

I chickened out, waiting for a second set of hands.
Do you think I am better off reattaching strut mount and then removing control arm?
Should I disconnect e brake cable?

Seems like there is a lot of stuff that can stressed or broken going this route. Mainly the trailing arm. I disconnected and moved forward but it is still on control arm. I imagine that When I lower the lca it will really push down on the trailing arm.

I am trying to visualize the whole thing.
Remove lca bolt from body, lower to get off mount, swing towards back of car until trailing arm releases while being weary of e brake cable. Need to not lower too much that it stresses brace. Keep eye on axle so it doesn't come crashing down and get ruined. Right side, no e brake and brace swings out of way. 😊

DWBOX,

Come on, you are almost there… just remove the thing and share the good news :)

BTW, don't even think about removing the parking brake cable as you will open a new can of worms… those would not go back together easy...

Now the Bentley book has two torques for the inner cv joint to outer flange. Assuming axle to tranny.
M8. 29 ft lb
M10 60 ft lb

I used an 8mm to get off so does the 29 make sense. 6 speed 2000. They were torque probably closer to 60 getting off.
29 the answer?

M8. 29 ft lb - I used medium threadlocker on mine and made sure the threads were clean, if the bolts weren't greasy when they came out they are probably good.

What year is your car, that would be another way to verify.

They were a little greasy. Certainly not dry. I just had the ims replaced 500 miles ago so I hope there is no problems. They look fine. I will clean and use the loctite I have. It's not the super strong stuff. No anti seize then?

Any idea what the weight roughly of the control arm, strut and disc is? I am thinking I can lay on my back and support the lca with one arm and the hold the axle. My friend can then loosen and remove bolt. Slowly lower jack holding arm at disc end up. When the connection on the arm drops below where it connects to the body, turn end slightly toward back to release from trailer arm and the drop.
I guess it comes down to whether 40lbs or less. Not as strong as I once was. I'll have safety blocks all around me.
I am a bit weary of axle banging off exhaust pipes.
Thanks.

Left side spring in. Did not have to disconnect the control arm from body. I loosen a lot and was able to wiggle out.
Need to reconnect axle and torque everything. On to right side.

Hopefully this in the end. I just need to reconnect the axles to the tranny. Any thing I need to know besides making sure the bolts are clean, I use those washers and the proper torque? Is there any sequence or just line up and bolt away? Is it easier with the aluminum braces hanging?
Thanks.