Front Strut help
 

I put a lowering spring on the left front. I noticed it wasn't any lower. About the same as previously. THought maybe when I do the other side it will be lower. Anyways, I realized I had the bottom washer on the strut flipped the wrong way. No problem, I took off and flipped. The washer seem the same identical to the other. THink it is fine. Anyhow. I was now have the right side lifted. When I went to lower the left, the strut does not seem to be working. The car is not lowering at all when the tire hits the ground. Any suggestions?

Right side went great. Well except. The bolt that holds the brake sensor to the wheel carrier snapped. 6mm X 1. I was going the right direction. I finally got a drill to try and use an easy out and that broke flush with the nut. Any suggestions?

Help please.

Bump. Suggestions?

Wow, I must have been garage punch drunk when I wrote this. I was worn down.
Basically when I lower the car, the left side strut is not contracting. Looks like a 4x4 truck. Thoughts?

Hello DWBOX2000,

did you check twice that you put everything together in the right order and direction?

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1471151692.jpg

Regards, Markus

I just looked again. Maybe I am wrong but the hole in the Strut bearing (11) and spring plate (5) are large enough that the stop plate (6) fits into those and makes contact with the strut mount
(3). Stop plate (6) on the bottom makes contact with the cup washer (2) rests on the strut.



Is that correct?

I put a jack under the disc and jacked up. The spring will compress that way.

Thanks for responding Markus.

David

Could it be I over tightened the control arm to the cross member. That is 88 ft lbs. I tighten with a small hand wrench and didn't torque it.

Hello David,

i don't think it's an overtightened cross member. But you could check if you loose it a little bit.

Did you check the part numbers on the new springs? Are they the same? ;)

Can you compress the chassis if you press down the fender – not too much force, please – don't put a big dent in your fender ;) ? Or is it a kind of blocked. That would mean there is something wrong with the parts order or with the damper or spring.

Also keep in mind that it takes a little driving time before the chassis settles to it's final ride height. But both sides (left and right) for shure have to have the same height after installation.

Regards, Markus

Its just strange that when I had the stop plate the wrong direction it went down no problem to where it was before I changed the spring. I can't think of anyway the strut could get ruined during the switch. The only difference the second time is that when I pulled off the left, I had the right side up in the air. I tried to lower the right and the left, (right tire not on) to see what would happen. Same result.

As I mentioned, when I put a jack under the caliper and jack up, there is no binding, strange noises and everything compresses as expected. It's like the car is not heavy enough to compress the spring. Weird


Danke und einen schoenen Abend.

I have a friends daughter visiting from Switzerland. I think she thinks its night there.

Yes - that's correct. When you turn the steering wheel, the front springs, along with the main part of the front struts, rotate. The shock shafts, however, stay stationary, because as you've pointed out, they're directly connected to the (rubber-isolated) portion of the upper strut mounts.

Did you have weight on the wheels when you tightened the lower control arm inner bushing? It sounds like binding in that bushing might be holding up the car.
You can also tighten it with a jack up under the control arm (because it,s next to impossible to actually get under the car with the wheels on the ground)

Thanks for responding everyone. When I tightened the bolt to the control arm, I put a jack and block of wood under caliper. I then for the two lines (one on arm, other on mount) in line before I tighten. Maybe they weren't actually in line. Bad eyes, poor lightening. I will try again later. It's 95f in my garage right now.

I loosened and readjusted the control arm. There are two arrows I am lining up. One one the arm and the other on the support housing. Are those lines supposed to be lined up when I tighten?
Also, the drop link gave me more trouble going back in where it goes through to hold the strut in place. Could that interfere with it not dropping?

According to that picture.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1470920828.jpg

One way to see if this is the problem is loosen that bolt and then put the car down on 4 wheels and roll.it back and forth a little to settle the suspension.

Just don't forget to re-tighten that bolt before driving off :)

Good ideA. Thanks for the picture.

I broke a bolt on the right side ( holds brake line to wheel carrier 6mm x 1. I started with a easy out and that broke. Now I have multiple issues. Won't be rolling the car for a while.

Some days is really stinks to try and DIY.

I agree about the DIY experience can be frustrating. I think sometimes taking a long break helps. The easy out process takes alot a patience and work slowly.I think you are close to success. Hot garage makes it much harder to have patience as well! Your posting is helping me learn a ton so thank you.

I just had an idea, when I was doing my coilovers and was trying to set the height, every change I made affected the other corners and nothing seemed to be right. To resolve I had to jack it all up and set the two fronts and the two backs to the exact same height on the collars, down to the mm.

In your case, if you have only 1 lowering spring in the front, I bet that wheel is in droop and looks just as high or even higher than the other three when the car is on its wheels. Maybe that's why nothing seems to happen, but you can jack.that wheel up from.the bottom and get compression?

I have two springs on the front but only the left wheel. Right is still off until I figure our by broken bolt problem.