My F150 takes like 25oz from empty. An overcharge can cook the compressor, or lack of oil. It also needs to have a vacuum pulled if it was flat or disassembled and air got in. Does the compressor kick on and both fans up front?

Both fans appear to be running, I didn't visibly inspect the compressor so I can't say for certain that it's on.


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Hello,

are you shure you know what you are doing? Sorry, if i sound harsh, but if you've looked a Youtube video with some guys refilling their AC with some refrigerant and telling you know its working that doesn't mean it will work for long. Just my 2 cents.

The AC system needs 850g of R 134a and also it is extremely important to add refrigerant oil 195 +/- 15 cm3 ND8. If some of the refrigerant is missing the system won't work. If you have to much refrigerant in the system you'll ruin the compressor. If some of the oil is missing you will ruin the compressor immediately.

So do yourself a favour a let the refill be done professionally. System leaks can be found easy if you use a professional refill machine. Also if the system was empty it is highly recommended to change the dryer cardridge.

Regards, Markus

++++986 on what Smallblock said:cheers: This is one of those systems best left up to the pros.

I misspoke when I said I refilled with 30oz of refrigerant, I only used 12 oz. I wanted to test whether the system would hold the charge as well determine if there was a leak. The system had a reading of 20 psi prior to filling up with 12oz or r314a and the gauge read 25 psi post charge. I let the AC run for 10 minutes and rechecked the pressure - still 25 psi. Since the system had a reading of 20 psi pre-charge I assumed that there was still ND8 oil within the system, I am not sure how to measure the content of ND8 so I didn't add any more.

Do I know what I'm doing - not really, but I would rather try to diagnose a problem myself than bring it to a shop.



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Understood but I'm really trying to find the route cause of the problem, not necessarily fix it myself. I want to buy the replacement parts, bring everything to a shop and have them replace the parts...I don't want to pay an additional $500 for a diagnostic test & labor.

Hello,

the AC system has a pressure sensor. If system pressure is too low the compressor doesn't start - clutch isn't activated. The system pressure doesn't take the amount of refrigerant oil in the system into account.

There are special systems to allow to flush the complete system. For example if the has had an accident.

If you use a professional system the complete system is evacuated / sucked and you can exactly measure the amount of R 134a that is in the system. There is no other way to define that. The amount of oil is a little difficult to measure, because in general most stays in the system and in general only the amount that was sucked out will be replaced with new (in general around 30 cm2 in a 986).

If parts of the AC system are replaced you have to mention that when filling up the refrigerant oil.
Total 195 +/- 15 cm3
Condenser approx 2 x 20 cm3
Evaporator approx 30 cm3
Fluid tank with lines approx 30 cm3
Compressor approx 50 cm3
Circulating oil in refrigerant circuit approx 60cm3

There are different tests you can do. For example you can test if the magnetic coupling of the compressor works. If condensors have a leak for a longer time in general you can see that visually.

External AC system sensors that can be checked and will need else the system may not run:
Outside temperature sensor
Inside temperature sensor
Footwell blower outlet sensor

If you don't know the exact amount of R 134 a in your system you don't know if it should work.

Regards, Markus

I do residential split systems. Same issues. The compressor comes with its oil. Then if it's low or flat, I have to pull a vacuum in the system and it has to hold vac for like 30 min and not raise back up. Then a scale is used to weigh the charge being added. Vapor only to big pipe or suction (or compressor will be ruined) and liquid on the small pipe (liquid line). It can only be "topped off" when it's hot outside and the AC is running and working. Then check output air temp at vents and suction temp plus the suction side pressure based on a T&P chart. When output air is about 40* you're there.

When you top off it has typically enough oil to replace a leak in the can but if you lost a lot of oil it must be checked and replaced.

I am not a tech and I'm more of a duct tape and vice-grip guy than torque wrench and loc-tite. I have bought a lot of crappy old Hondas over the years that the AC had failed in. I got most of them working well again.
I would not recommend following my advice.
-See if the compressor is compressin' (jump the ground for the clutch if you have to.)
-Replace the schrader valves, and every one of the green o-rings that you can easily get to.
-Vacuum the system to get all the moisture, old/contaminated gasses out.
-Recharge with the correct amount of r134/ butane/favorite flavor of r12....

*Wear gloves & safety goggles, make sure nobody is filming, and don't breathe.
* Buy one of these:
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1464701881.jpg

Note to EPA: All work that I have done is under the supervision and training of a qualified HVAC A&P mechanic using approved devices.

It was a day-long course and a 4-hour test to get my EPA license for refrigerant. It's all about the safe recovery and reclaim process. The vac pumps shown above only pull vacuum. They do not recover the old refrigerant safely. That takes a $1200+ reclaimer pump and hoses and a empty tank.

An empty system can be charged with nitrogen to check for leaks. Never use air.

I forgot to add this link:
Summer A/C Guide, How it Works, and When it Doesn't - Honda-Tech
A great guide to basic automotive AC, but the system in our cars is not identical.

Tim is a professional. I am a hack.

That stuff will give you frostbite fast! And if you know where to look, you can actually see the ozone hole get bigger as the refrigerant leaks out......:eek:

Thanks guys for the great feedback - you have convinced me to take the car to an independent shop that can better diagnose the issues, I was in over my head!

On another note - I received my new FVD pedals that I ordered off eBay for $30, going to try and install them this weekend.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...e6eb4c7de6.jpg


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Progress update. Please

I just bought a distressed one for the same price

Car is being resprayed right now, should have it back early next week.

Here is a list of parts I've purchased so far, haven't installed everything yet:
AOS
Sparkplugs and coils
Pentosin oil
Magnetic oil plug
Oil filter
Cabin filter
Air filter
Rotors and pads
Brake fluid
Engine mount and shims
Clutch kit and flywheel
Leather Sport Seats
Floor mats
CV Axles
Coolant cap
Frunk shocks

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Here she is with new paint, not concours but dramatically better than before [emoji1] Wheels will be polished up this week

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...4b8a00a04d.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...f661ebc251.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...6b292e5e47.jpg

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Looks good. Hope to be there in a month lol

Color looks very different in the sun

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...fc09d77e0c.jpg

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Parts for your build
 

Hey

Last October I was buying parts off this guy who turned a Cocoa 550 SE into a track car he had the whole interior for sale. My 550 has a black interior so I bought other things off him, so he might still have the interior on his shelf.

His email was bela928@sbcglobal.net

I did buy a bunch of stuff so feel free to shoot me an email for anything you may need.
blair206@hotmail.com

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1468963049.jpg

Thanks for the heads up, my interior is actually also black...but there still might be a few parts I can use

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