Well, yes' I do prefer a hard top. Not to say it won't come off on weekends and such. Kansas has some beautiful weather spring and fall although the summers can cook you some days.

A cayman is simply out of my price range, or at least what I am willing to spend on another car today. I have a fleet including an 85 shark that need love too!

A boxster is a really good option considering cost, flexibility, handling etc. Plus a used engine if things go bad is only about $2500. And they are a really sweet looking car!

I bought mine based on the relatively low intro price. Glad that was also a wise choice performance wise. It's not all about straight ahead power and this car has plenty for me thanks. It's been fun modding and wrenching myself.

I finally got home and too a pic of the options tag on the hood.

Here are the majority of them:

XMH mahogany/aluminum/leather stick shift and brake handle
XRH Dyno 17" wheels
139 heated seats
222 traction control
224 LS differential
437 electric seats
454 cruise control
550 hard top
981 leather dash and doors
982 leather pleated seats

Other stuff included: stereo and CD, driver seat memory, wind stop, storage box over engine....

So, no suspension package.

Paint and interior are: L84S H8

I would like to find a replacement driver seat in good condition as opposed to recover both seats, but I realize that may be difficult to do.

Question: what is the conventional wisdom or rule of thumb regarding cold temps and a Porsche M96 engine? When is it just too cold to be starting? Issues related to cold weather starting, etc?

Thanks

If you're running 0w-40 then you're fine to start in any temp. No more issues than with any other engine in the cold.

KSJohn. Congratulations on a potentially really good deal. The only thing cheap about a used Porsche is "the owner". I have 3 recommendations for you.

1) Forget the spin on filter and keep the cartridge OEM style. Get your replacement filers from NAPA. Theirs have a plastic end piece that keeps the filter together.

2) When you open the ragtop be sure to have the car in a warm place. The plastic window doesn't like the cold.

3) Be sure to bleed the brakes and replace all the brake fluid. Use natural DOT 4.

Bill.

John - that's a nice option list. I think you found a diamond in the rough!

You'll have no issues with the car in the cold. Just be careful of the tires you are running when it gets cold out. I took one of mine out yesterday that has summer tires, jumped on the throttle a bit and broke the ass-end loose. Oops!

Keep us updated on your progress - I'm really jealous you beat me to the car. :p

Good question. You guys might want to look into "bore scoring" on the 996 and early 997's. Ask Jake Raby to comment, too. More common on daily driven cars in the northern states and winter climates. Also C4 and C4S versions, because they are driven more in winter conditions with the AWD.

I get that there is more stress in an engine when you start it in cold temps. I also know that the most damage to an engine happens at start up. With this knowledge should we all never start or drive our cars? There are a million ways these cars can die. If you want to daily drove it in the cold with proper tires, I gotta feel that's one of the least common.

Yup - I've read all about it. But we're talking where ksjohn lives is in Kansas, and I'm in Oklahoma where a cold day is 30'. A cold day is relative. We're not the Great White North. My 996 C4 sits in the garage from Oct -March. ;)

Of all the ways I can kill an M96 engine, driving it in the winter is the least of my worries. :cheers:

I have an interior color question:

Codes are L84S H8

I have seen all kinds of contradictory information on the web. Some saying the H8 is the interior color and trim while others saying it is the metallic paint code.

I would like to know what the interior color is? Savannah Beige?

Thanks

I think that would be...
 

Arena Red Metallic paint = 84S

I believe Savanna Beige could have a few different codes depending on if it was standard leather, partial leather or full leather - but I am no expert :)

Awesome find! Welcome to Boxsterdom! I think you will find that although there may be cheap Porsches, there are no inexpensive Porsches. :D

DBear

The H8 is in the position everyone says is the interior code but this link says H8 is exterior color code. You must have Savanah Beige as there wasn't anything else close to that offered in 99. Not sure what the code would be. Didn't see any codes in Bentley either.

1999 Boxster Options - Color and Interior Options

This one says H8 means metallic paint.

http://www.rahul.net/dennisp/boxster/boxster-1999-options-list.shtml

Thanks for the info. I don't know, you may be right. I had some paint mixed the other day for some work that needs done. The shop only used the L84S to identify the paint, Rouge Plaisir Metalic. It was the most expensive quart I have ever purchased, $196. (it was the better quality paint as opposed to the cheaper stuff)

But I agree, it has to be Savannah Beige. Have not had any luck so far finding a used driver seat, so I will probably recover both. Right now I am leaning toward Autoberry covers unless anyone has a horror story about them.

I got a little scare the other morning when I started the Boxster to take a drive. I started it, the engine made the typical timing chain rattle for maybe 2 seconds.....

But when I got out of the car and listened to the engine, there was this ugly rattling sound coming from under the car. I knelt down and it seemed to be coming from the engine which was unnerving. I had not heard this before but I had only driven it a total of 4 times for about 85 miles including the purchase test drive.

Needless to say I was very concerned with the noise. I have not changed the oil yet and I know it has been in the car for 2 years. Changing the oil is the first thing on my list, but with the holidays, the car has just been sitting.

So today I jacked it up, started it and crawled under to listen. No rattling noise and the engine, it sounded fine. I did find a heat shield for one of the cats was rusted away and probably the source of the rattle.

I did listen to the IMS area with a stethoscope and is sounded OK, what I would expect to hear from a bearing. The OEM oil filter housing is leaking, there is some oil in the IMS area and both valve covers look wet toward the front of the engine.

I have received the spin on filter adapter that I ordered and plan to change the oil next weekend, drop the pan and inspect, and check the old OEM filter for anything.

I made a video of the underside of the engine with it running, but don't know how to upload it.

The best way to share a video is to upload the video to YouTube and then embed the YouTube link here.

Thanks

Here is the video link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r_qI-Apcs6Q

It sounds OK to me. Anyone hear anything out of the ordinary?

I fixed the loose cat heat shield, about $4 for U nuts and bolts. No more rattle. :)

Realized the car is missing the driver side fender liner. After much searching, purchased a new one from Byers Porsche in Ohio. Had not heard of them before, but they had a very good price and reasonable shipping. I have traditionally bought a lot of stuff through Pelican, but Byers price was $40 less. Suncoast also had a good price but shipping was too high.

Anyone have experience with Byers Porsche?

I have also been in communication with Jeffery at xtrememotorcarss regarding their Z-top. Maybe this spring!

when mine rattles i push the clutch in and it stops? it is intermittent

itsnotanova
 

get the liner from woody his screen name itsnotanova.... all parts chech with woody FIRST, with the exception of some suspension but I have went pre-owned with that in a pinch