Nine8Six |
01-16-2016 02:11 AM |
Fred’s ballasts are simply the best-in-the-world (lol I wish).
These have built-in canbus (or simply put; have built-in capacitors). But then Canbus sounds better! They are incredibly simple and incorporate modern protections which is fact, I’ve been told, are copied of the infamous Hella’s. Those include open/short circuit protection, low/over voltage protection, etc. They are also shock, dust and water proof! I mean come on guys… all that for fifty bucks?!
It’s not the ballasts Dwight. The way we wired those up (now on little less than 500x Porsche cars) is same way the halogen are wired. From my experience, those who encounters battery light issues is about 2% so you can call your problem uncommon. U r unlucky Dwight :/ RE ballasts Even if you go for the “Porsche” part #991.618.323.03 which in fact cost nearly $500 (beware;each!), you are still going to have the same battery failure sensor trigger thingy. Yes someone I know of spent that amount of money, converted them to the AMP termination, thinking it would solve it. Same
To me, it appears to be a ‘resistance’ issue more than anything else; the ignition switch, the headlamp switch, a bad battery not pushing enough amp (or fast enough in this case) or even a bad ground would cause this issue. These are all part of the headlight circuitry that needs testing. Voltage regulator is also to be load-checked.
RE AC gremlins… believe me you do not need an oscilloscope or any super advanced equipment to test for that. Just open your radio and set the volume to medium/high. If you don’t hear a nasty buzzing sound your DC circuit is free of gremlins. That simple mate. If you are concerned about micro feedback just add a RF filter somewhere on the headlamp circuit… which is in fact an extra capacitor really.
Last year I was in Porsche here in Shanghai and had the opportunity to speak with one of their lead mechanics on this issue; change the battery or debug the charging systems he said. Battery light means the sensor thinks the battery is failing, any other stupid question? he asked back. What about the oil light?! I asked; he said don’t expect anything else to function normally is there is not enough current feeding the other devices (sensors in this case). Can it damage anything I asked; NO he said unless your super lights somehow demands a huge amount of power (e.g 30amps each loll) then you may want to look at replacing some of the stock wiring. What is the max current I can load on these Boxster without damaging anything I asked; (stupid question again he looked back) uhhh I think there is a 15amp fuse per each main light so I think you can safely load 14.999AMP per light. End of conversation RE headlight!
So… get the switches tested (ignition, headlamps), make sure your battery can push its advertised amp, voltage regulator should climb up to 14.5v and stay steady during a load test, etc etc. If you don’t want to bother looking up for the culprit then you can simply hook up your HID directly onto the battery and use a relay/harness to power them up. That weird resistance problem solved but lots of extra wiring required :/
Keep your el-cheapo ballasts man, they are really the best (in Shanghai, of course lol)
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