Polishing/Waxing question
 

I've had my Boxster for almost 2 months now and it seems my wife's favourite question these days is: "Didn't you just wash that thing last weekend?". Anyways, The paint is in amazing condition and it shines up real nice but it doesn't feel clean to the touch after a wax, almost like there is still a bit of grit on the surface. I'm only cleaning it with a microfibre mit and mainly using Meguairs products on the car. Before I bought it, it was indoor stored but hadn't been washed in a couple of years so I was very careful to try to wash all the dust off it before I started really washing it, I'm not sure if that had anything to do with it.
I really want that "glass-like" surface feel. Any suggestions?

Have you tried a clay bar? Makes it feel like a baby's behind!

I have not. I've always been a bit afraid I could damage the paint or clear coat. What is the learning curve like with them, if any?

Pretty easy and one bar can last you several applications. The main thing is to keep the car and bar very damp at all times and go in straight even strokes aiming towards the frontend. There are a bunch of videos on you tube about how to do it which might help with a visual. Becareful on where you purchase the item as I have heard from other people that some online (overseas) people selling really low quality stuff which could have small grains in it which could scratch the car. I believe there are some professional detailers on this site who could help you out much better...

Thanks for the help. I just did a cursory search and there is a ton of videos and info about how to do it. Any suggestions on which brand to buy?

I would recommend the Griot's Garage clay bar simply because that's all they sell you, the clay. And they give you a good amount in a plastic jar that keeps it from drying out. Almost every other brand add a quick detail spray to jack up the price. Which is silly because all you don't need QD spray, any basic car wash soap diluted in water will work. Or you can simply clay while you're washing the car. By the way, It's actually not clay but play-dough type plastic.

I would caution you on using microfiber repeatedly on the paint. Those towels are really overkill for a well-maintained paint surface. You can easily do more harm than good. In many cases microfiber towels just re-branded janitorial towels used to clean linoleum floors. The big problem with standard auto store microfiber towels is that after the first use they are a real PITA to get back to 100% clean. I've run them in the washer 3 times and those hooks on the prickly side of the towel still had little bits. Get a few buffing towels for those final passes and for using sprays I would recommend long nap towels (no prickly side) like the Griot's Garage green and blue towels. Chemical Guys and Poorboys World sell these towels as well. They're not cheap, usually at least $3 per towel but they'll save you the expense of a buying an orbital polisher to get out all those swirls.

For normal cleaning, I use Optimum No-Rinse. I can wash the car with less than 1/2 gallon of water. You can even wash it in the garage and get almost no water on theground

You wont damage the paint or clearcoat claying it unless you get a piece of grit in the clay and then yo can scratch it.

Get a"California duster", its like a big mop thing to get dust off. Wont scratch the car and get most of the dust off easily.

Get some decent microfiber towels, wash them with a very basic detergent, no softeners, etc separately form other things. If you have a Costco near you, their MF towels are pretty good and not very $$

Check out Autiogeek.com for lots of how to in washing and detailing

^ California car dusters can only be used by you guys in Souther California. :)

Seriously, if you live where it rains, those dusters are a no go. Ditto for squeege type dryers. There are always road sediments that get kicked up onto your paint after it rains and those dusters just drag that sand over the paint. Swirl city. The best policy for cars that that see rain, is to never touch the paint when it's dry. If you absolutely must like for instance to remove bird bombs, first apply a quick detail spray to at least lubricate the paint surface to reduce friction. But generally speaking, always spray down the paint before towel-rubbing or using a buffing towel.

But you're spot on with the waterless wash. A full bucket and hose wash is overkill and can wreck the paint if you're drying the car with towels instead of using leaf blower or air compressor. If you're going to wash with a hose regularly you should at least get a foam canon so that there's maximum lubrication. Turtle wax makes a decent waterless wash at a great price although it's tricky to find.

With all the cars I have owned and if no one minds my humble opinion.. I have tried many ways through trial and error and after many different waxes,sponges and cloths and everything else invented to man..here is what really works and takes away every bit of worry to give you the best shine.

This is what I do and the 986 will receive the same shortly as it IMO is the absolute sure way to protect your paint and get the shine you want.

First get a professional full detail including clay bar and paint correction.

Then get them to apply a 'minimum' of 3 coats of Nano Ceramic Coating.

The shine is jaw dropping and my car now never ever has a sponge or cloth go anywhere near the paint...no no swirls

When it needs a wash simply go through a quality auto brush less car wash that has a blower dryer...and it sparkles.

The Ceramic does not wear off and it protects the actual paint underneath from any of the somewhat harsher car wash detergents.

For some this might sound a definite no no..but the Nano Ceramic is that tough and good the detergents actually never touches the clear coat underneath.

The Nano might need a quick refresh wipe every year or 2 not because the Nano has worn off..but this just brings back the dazzle stronger.

Forget 2 buckets and sponges and cloth as there will always be a little bit of dirt or dust somewhere that will mar the paint as I have learnt.

My R35 had it as well and it was the same outcome.

Only my real life experience with some nice cars I have owned..and in this day and age I just don't believe that a car needs a bucket,sponge and a wax unless of course you get pleasure from personally detailing your own car which can be a passion and reward in itself.

Here's a pic of one of my cars after about 12 months with the Nano Coating that never had a hand wash or wax in that time.

http://i583.photobucket.com/albums/s...e8c85d65e6.png

Nice Audi!

Thanks appreciate the nice comment..:)

Another for claying car, I use Bilt Hamber that needs water as a lubricant.

If you drop clay onto floor bin it, you don't want grit scratching paint, light finger pressure glides across and you can see what comes off in clay.

Follow up with whatever protection you want.

No learning curve... use clay bar on a washed vehicle.
Only gotta-be is to use a quick detailer of some kind as a lubricant...
Very easy to do.
Lotsa vids on YouTube.
Wax afterward.

+1 regarding the clay bars. They work great. The paint finish will feel like glass. As far as what to use for drying the car, I now use an electric leaf blower to blow the water off the car. It works great, with no spots or residue from the chamois. I picked up a cheap electric blower at Home Depot. One caveat, it has to be electric as the gas blowers give off fumes that can land on the paint.

WOW!!!! Looks awesome!!

Definitely clay your car! Again, if you drop the clay, throw it away! Once you have clayed the car, use the clay to do your glass as well. I like Griots along with speed shine.

http://www.amazon.com/Griots-Garage-11145-Paint-Cleaning/dp/B003V3PZOY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1443215332&sr=8-2&keywords=griots+garage+clay

Here is the PDF version of Griots Detailing handbook:

http://www.griotsgarage.com/text/pdf/10212GriotsGarageDetailerHB9th.pdf

Just a gentle suggestion with your 986? No auto washes. Terrible for the canvas top.

I now use the optimum. First used the turtle wax, can't find it anymore. The optimum is a better product in my opinion.

This is good advice. However it really doesn't require a professional detailer to tackle paint correction if you use an orbital polisher like the Flex, Porter Cable or the small one that Griots Garage sell. It's very difficult to harm the paint with these. It takes all of 10 minutes to get the basic movement down (many DIY videos on YouTube). From there its just a matter of spending a couple of quality hours with your car. An LED light or cheap halogen lamp from Sears that you can shine onto the paint while youre working will let you know right away if you're missing any spots. You can get most of the swirls out yourself and the professional detailer who will likely charge you by the hour, and not on the cheap if he's more than just a guy at the car wash with a buffer, can concentrate on the tougher swirls only. Then you can do your old lady's car. :) Or you can do your buddies cars and charge half the $500-$600 that an experienced pro is going to bill you. You'll need some advil or a creeper chair at least. LoL.
The trick to paint correction is to move very slowly in overlapping L shape patterns and to be conservative on the amount of polish you dab onto the pad. If you're too liberal with amount of polish the pad will not bite as it spins and will just leave a hazy mess.

Thanks for the prompt as am still getting use to having a canvas top again.:)

Should have mentioned that on the last expensive convertible I had...Nano Ceramic was applied to the canvas roof as well as the interior and rims and it provided the same level of hard shell protection as like the paint.

Over 12 months of ownership with that exotic there was not one bit of fade on the canvas.

You could of course apply Nano and hand wash as often as you want with the same outcome..but I find time short.

Could not agree more but I personally never trusted myself to try.

I bought all the right gear and it has sat in the cupboard for 4 years.

Without trying to sound like a here I am(sorry)..all my weekend cars have been Lambo,R8's and R35..so I was to scared to put any polisher near the paint and I feel the same about my 986 as the paint work is pretty much immaculate

I will just get my pro detailer in and know that I will not damage anything and will be $700 lighter but gleaming and protected.

I will post some pics of the Nano ceramic when it is done in a few weeks.