Clutch Bleeding
 

Hi Everyone:
I replaced clutch slave on 2000 2.7 Boxster. Then pumped pressure to 22 psi. with clutch pedal to floor. Let air out of bleeder valve. Pulled clutch up by hand. Clutch would not go down all the way. At this point I had not relieved pressure from Motive.
I pushed a little harder with my hand on clutch pedal. I then noted fluid leaking at slave; but not at bleeder or line. Then a lot of fluid leaked out of line (black) beside battery. No fluid leaked on floorboard at master. Did all of this happen because I didn't relieve pressure from Motive before pressing on the clutch? Also if I have to replace the line from the reservoir to battery area, how is line attached to reservoir. I don't see a clip or a push fitting.
Thanks,
Garry

Yes....................

I bleed my clutch every time I flush the brake / clutch fluid. I pump up the Motive and do the four brakes first, starting with furthest from the master cylinder and working to closest. Then, without releasing Motive pressure, I push down the clutch pedal and hold it down with a stick. After bleeding at the slave, I release the Motive pressure and lift up the clutch pedal from the floor. Is that the correct way to do it?

slave cylinder
 

Does anyone have a diagram as to how the slave components can be reassembled after coming apart (new slave). I don't see any type of snap ring or keeper.

Yes.......

Thanks JFP!

Getting ready to do this again (I’m waaaay overdue) and, as is typical, I often have questions along these lines.

1) In descriptions on this procedure I often read about people who are using the Motive pressure bleeder who still, correctly or incorrectly, seem to feel the need to pump the brakes at times. I think it’s been to get air out of the system, or to help remove any built-up grunge in the lines that’s compromising the flow of the fluid out of the bleeder valves. While apparently forcing the clutch down can be a bad idea, is pumping the brakes (while the system’s already under pressure) sometimes/ever a good thing to do?

2) So (from reading this thread, specifically clickman’s question) it’s okay to depress the clutch with the system already pressurized by the Motive, just don’t do it repeatedly? Would it make more sense to depress the clutch with the stick before pressurizing the system?

3) Using common sense—and having read recommendations both ways—I’m guessing it doesn’t make a helluva lot of difference which order (inside or outside) one does the bleeder nipples on the brake calipers. A fair statement?

Thanks in advance. :)

The purpose of the Motive pressure bleeding system is to make the process a one person job, so no one needs to pump the brakes. If you are using the Motive tool, it is totally unnecessary.

As I have always done these on a lift, I depress the cultch pedal with a tool designed to hold it to the floor before I put the car up in the air. When you are done, release the tool and pull up the pedal.

Which bleeder you use may not be critical, but I always do the one closest to the line into the caliper first, then the other one.

+1 JFP. Made an adapter with pressure regulator and ball valve for my Motive so I could use compressed air. Not so much pumping and checking air pressure of Motive tank. Made a clutch pedal depressing tool from a old twist lock extendable ice scraper that wedges perfectly on the seat frame.

In addition JFP, I would personally like to thank you for all the excellent advice and guidance you have given me on my Boxster. (whether you know it or not!) Anyone who frequents this site and has any sort of repair experience will know immediately...You are the MAN.

Do it right the first time.

The Hip

More importantly: Do it right, do it once...........