Broken caliper bolt

[ianacole]

Can you get a die grinder in there? In cases like this, when encountered in the past, I would grind two flat surfaces at the end of the bolt so I can get another wrench on it, then lots and lots of heat (as others have mentioned), breaker bar, and a hammer. I use the hammer on both the end of the bolt, and on the breaker bar as opposed to continuous, increasing pressure, in hopes of snap-breaking it free. Otherwise... new upright or machine shop...

[Hogosha]

Call a couple of local gun shops to see if they have Kroil. I am not saying it is magic, but I have always had better luck with Kroil over PB. I know you are trying everything you can, so I'm still wishing you luck

[tommy583]

Originally Posted by Hogosha

Call a couple of local gun shops to see if they have Kroil. I am not saying it is magic, but I have always had better luck with Kroil over PB. I know you are trying everything you can, so I'm still wishing you luck

I think we might have some at work. I will look around for it tomorrow. Thanks for the reminder about it. If I can't find it at work I will just order some from Amazon. The wife has 2 day shipping thing from there.

[KRAM36]

Originally Posted by tommy583

I actually think I will use 3 batteries to make sure I have enough power. And yes I would definitely be using a coat hanger. No sense in wasting money on welding rod. I will need that money for the hospital bills lol.

LMAO!

[Topless]

Galvanic corrosion is the enemy and penetrating oil, hammer and heat are the solution. Sometimes the corrosion is too severe and you can't save the threads. After soaking overnight again, try heat and a heavy hammer. You might get lucky. If it won't give a time sert installed by an experienced tech will save the hub. It's only money.

Here is a homemade penetrating oil that is tested and performs better than any off the shelf product at 1/10th the price:

Make a better penetrating oil

[tommy583]

I went over and talked to my indy today. He said he has never seen that happen on a Boxster or 911 before. He has seen it on the SUV's, but people drive them year round. He is sure he can get it out. I also asked him to break free the rest of the bolts while it's there. I don't want to go back again. I'm bringing it in tomorrow, so by the weekend I should know what the damage is lol. Thanks for all your help guys

[healthservices]

heat where the bolt goes into the hub.


East coast cars....

[RandallNeighbour]

OP: You're lucky you didn't completely strip out the hub the way I did with my top caliper bolt removal. Took me nearly an hour to remove them slowly moving back and forth and the receptacles were totally smooth when I was done. No choice but to drill them out bigger, put in a helicoil, and go back in with a new bolt. Ugh!

My car was purchased and driven a few winters in Salt Lake City, Utah. I'm betting this is where the problem began.

[CoBeerToad]

I think I know where I might be having an issue. I broke my socket when first attempting this so I've been using a long-ish allen wrench. When I put my jack handle on it for more leverage, all I am doing is flexing the wrench.
I'm gonna buy a breaker bar (because I've given up trying to find mine in my garage) and a new socket. Then I should be able to beat on it with a BFH and get some results because right now, I can't get this bolt to spin either way.
Memorial weekend is coming up fast and I still have 3 rotors and calipers to paint. I'm sure a rush paint job is exactly what I need.

[Timco]

Originally Posted by RandallNeighbour

OP: You're lucky you didn't completely strip out the hub the way I did with my top caliper bolt removal. Took me nearly an hour to remove them slowly moving back and forth and the receptacles were totally smooth when I was done. No choice but to drill them out bigger, put in a helicoil, and go back in with a new bolt. Ugh!

My car was purchased and driven a few winters in Salt Lake City, Utah. I'm betting this is where the problem began.

Yeah, I know, blame it on the Mormons....

I'll have you know our roads are very smooth, and we use a brine solution not real salt unless it's super bad. This solution is applied before it snows and is very effective.

I'd say it's very rare for a car to get all salty and nasty. Maybe in Denver...

[Mark_T]

Suggest you buy a Snap-on, Mac or other really high quality socket. This isn't a job for HF crap.

[CoBeerToad]

Anyone know the size / type wrench / socket I will need for the new caliper bolts? Might as well get both while I'm out and the new ones don't arrive until Friday-ish.

[woodsman]

Forum member JP previously posted that Porsche changed the bolts ( to triple-square?) because of the high torque value (130 ftlbs?). I cursed Porsche when one of my bolts stripped on it's way out but then realized that the lightweight choice of aluminum for the hub is the culprit (collateral damage). I think these bolts are often over-torqued and the threads stretch hence the problem when it's time to loosen them. A better solution is one that Tarret offers utilizing threaded rods and nuts. Once the rod is installed it never needs to come out.

[CoBeerToad]

Wish I would have thought of that earlier. Their site shows $125 per axle though. A smart person could probably find these cheaper.

I believe it's a Torx head. I was too impatient and bought the allen head and breaker bar from Harbor Freight. They're having a big sale on Friday so I'll buy the Torx head then. I know they suck, but I bought the impact socket and I don't see how I could possibly break that.

[tommy583]

The new bolts will be size 55 torx. The torque for the new bolts should be 63 foot pounds.
Don't try to twist that bolt too hard if it doesn't want to turn. That's how I snapped the head off.