Thanks Guys
 

I know there is always some head butting on here, but it keeps this most helpful forum colorful and you guys are the best when it comes to help. I'm doing Annual PM's on Dialysis equipment for the next few days to keep people alive....so it will be a few days before I can snatch the Box's shoes off and see what is really going on. I know I do have a squeal on one of my pads at very low speeds while breaking....and with very little brake pressure...once I stand on it the noise stops....so I think I need to remove the pads and re-apply adhesive to the back of the pad. I read somewhere that someone had good luck with hi-temp silicone ....might give that a try this time.

Some notifications from other forum members sent me to this thread, I know I stated before that I was out but one last post.........

KRAM, please refrain from dispensing with the mechanical advice, you clearly know not of what you speak. Continuing to do such will only put other unsuspecting forum members (who take heed to your misinformed advice) at risk of injury, it's bad enough that you relish driving the fool on public roads then feel the need brag about it on forums yet now you give advice on braking issues when you have obviously never dealt with changing pads / sensors firsthand.

To reiterate a prior reply to your phenomenal wealth of P-Car knowledge......

Kind of reminds me of a favorite Groucho Marx quote:

"He may look like an idiot and talk like an idiot but don't let that fool you. He really is an idiot."

<iframe width="854" height="510" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/C_Kh7nLplWo" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

For Christ sake, stop acting and posting like a 10 year old. :rolleyes:

But.....You complete me.............:D

While your feeling so childish, why don't you pop off an email to ECS Tuning with your no knowledge claim and moron video, after all they are the ones giving this information.

email address sales@ecstuning.com

Their information

2003 Porsche Boxster Roadster S H6 3.2L Braking Rotors - 99635140501KT - Front Brake Rotors - Pair 12.51" (318mm) - ES#2535370

I at least took the time to email them on the subject. All you're doing is making an ass of yourself.

Hey Guys,

This thread is interesting and very applicable to me.

On Monday, 13 April 2015, as I was making my 70 mile commute home from work my brake wear indicator light came on.
When I got home I immediately when to RockAuto & Pelican Parts to order new pads, disk brake hardware kit and brake wear sensors. I had replaced my rotors, pads and sensors back in 2011 well over 100,000 miles ago. My 1999 Boxster has 242,000 miles this week.
But on Wednesday, 15 April 2015, the brake wear sensor light just went out.
I'm waiting on the pads, sensors and hardware kit. Once they arrive I will replace all the pads and sensors, but just looking at them the pads seem to have a lot of brake pad left and my rotors do not have a lip or any groves cut into them like I had when I replaced rotors in 2011.

I will update everyone once the parts arrive and I take the wheels off.
Until then my money is on a faulty/broken brake wear sensor for the Forum Member who started this thread. If the rotor is at fault, then the rotor might have cut the sensor wire due to a mis-routing of the wire harness.
Just my two-cents
MNC-I
P.S. "I thought I was the only one to get all worked up (********************in, moaning, ranting and complaining) about stuff (mostly poorly designed Porsche waterpumps, the AOS and the IMS)"

I was reading this thread munching on Planters mixed nuts, and coming across your popcorn eating post the mixed nuts seemed much more appropriate. ;)

Guys, can we not have a difference of opinion without it getting personal and nasty? Armchair mechanics (myself included) will be the death of us all! Having said that, when I offer advice it it generally because I have first hand experience, not because I read something on the internet. Know what I mean?

I am very certain that the problem here will not be the rotors, but the suggestion to wait and see what the OP finds is obviously the most reasonable and sensible thing to do. I will be the first to apologize if I am wrong but truthfully, I'd like a piece of that $100 action that Timco proposed. I could use the cash! :D

Kram, when I said you were wrong it was not because what you propose could not possibly ever happen, only that it is highly highly unlikely to happen except in the most rare of circumstances and would definitley need contributing factors, such as improper installation, in order for it to happen. It's about as likely as getting hit by a meteorite on your way home from work. If you had actually ever done a brake job on your car I don't think you would be so vociferously defending your theory. There are several much more likely reasons for the fault.

Unlikely things DO happen. I blew out one of my clutch lines because a small shard of granite got wedged between the line and the body and sawed its way through the line from vibration over time . What were the chances of that happening? Now, if someone else told me they blew a clutch line, I would not immediately insist that it must have been because of a piece of rock getting stuck in there, at least not until I had a look at the car in question.

So, how about we wait and see and maybe even learn? :cheers:

"You're a funny guy Sully. I like you. That's why I'm going to kill you last!" :D

(10 forum points to identify the quote - no Google cheating!)

Ooooo, that could make a real mess. Have you tried the trimmable stick-on anti-squeal pads? I think Pelican carries them. I used them and have had no problems.

(I was SO tempted to type a row of asterisks instead of "Pelican" :D )

No , I have not .....but I will get some on order right away


The eternal balancing act Honeydo List or Boxster :rolleyes:

Too easy, telling my age lol.

Awenuld in Commando!

I'm not an "armchair mechanic", nobody puts a wrench to my Boxster except me. Before I do anything, I research what I'm getting ready to do and it soaks into my brain. I'm in the market for a new set of brake pads and rotors as my mods have put the performance of my car to a level that the factory brakes are not good enough for me, the rotor cutting through the wire was not of concern to me as I'm buying rotors too, however what I read stuck in my mind.

Don't pass me off as stupid. :cool:

That makes sense, my old rotors were worn pretty bad and they had a major lip on them. And it is right at the top of the pad. It would have to be a heck of a worn rotor.

I like how the side of the car is magically fixed when he drives away...

Commando. Easy.

Easy there pal - no offense intended. You'll notice I included myself in that category, and I too do virtually all of my own work. It was meant to differentiate us from the pro's, like JFP for instance. Would you have preferred the term "backyard mechanic"? "Amateur" perhaps? Maybe after you've actually done a brake job, (like the rest of us that have contributed to this thread) you'll have a little bit better idea of what you are talking about. I never said you were stupid, just mis-informed, and there's no shame in that.

Yeah backyard mechanic I am, not by trade, just enjoyment of knowing the job was done right and with care. I've watched several video's on changing 986 Boxster pads, has to be the easiest brake pad change I've ever seen. Like you said, to mess that up would be hard to do. When I had my winter tires installed I checked my rotors and I have about a 1/8" lip at the edge and it's very thin, like a knife, could cut your finger on it if you wanted to. What I read made sense to me at that time just from observing my own rotors.

I've been doing a lot of research on rotors and ceramic brake pads. Just haven't found a combo I like yet.

I did email ECS about what they have on their site and pointed them to this thread. Will be interesting to see their reply.

Anyways, I'm good. Love to learn. :cheers:

Brake Pads
 

This is a downhill topic like oil changes, but I have EBC Red Stuff on my Porsche now and for many years on my E36, work great and seem to last forever

I've looked at those, price is decent on them and would look slick with my red calipers.

This set here just keep calling my name though.

7798-D917KT - Front & Rear Cool Carbon S/T Performance Brake Pad Set - ES#2804502

Also for you guys in the know how. Do the Brake Pad Damping Plates need to be replaced when I change the rotors and brake pads? Never saw them replaced in the videos I have watched.

http://www.ecstuning.com/Porsche-2003-Boxster-986-Roadster_S-Convertible-H6_3.2L/Braking/Pads/ES1485481/


.

Fronts have a large rectangular plate with two posts on each plate. Two per caliper. Those fit into the pistons of the caliper. DO NOT tear the dust boot. Pop those out, get everyone else's glue / pad grease out of there and go from there.

Rears have a round disc in each piston, so four per caliper. No need to change any of them unless damaged, but likely not.

Go ceramic. Almost zero brake dust, super quiet, rotor wears super slowly.

On mine (2000 S) I reused the front shims, I took them out and cleaned them with brake cleaner, and then put a little anti-squeal on the backs and put them.back in. When I went to do the backs the shims were missing. I did not get new ones and all is well. There is a really good tutorial on boxsterregister.org on brakes, probably the most comprehensive I have ever seen.

I use ebc redstuff too, quiet on the street, low dust, and handles track and autocross well. The red looks good right up until you drive then it gets covered in dust and grime :)

A couple of tips for brake jobs that you don't always see in the DIY's:

Really important - use only the best flare wrenches, like Snap-On or Mac. The rest are crap and will spread and round off your nipples if they are overly tight (oo, that sounds painful).

Brake fluid is one of the best paint removers you will find, Be careful not to spill it on any painted surfaces and if you do then wipe it up right away.

Have lots of clean rags handy and don't spare the brake cleaner. Compressed air is also very helpful. I believe that at least part of the reason that my brakes don't squeal is that the calipers were cleaned to operating room standards before painting and re-assembly.

A Motive power bleeder is worth every penny. Actually, it's worth twice that.

The clutch line comes out of the side of the reservoir, not the bottom like the brakes. Do not let the fluid level in the reservoir drop below the level of the clutch line outlet or you have just bought yourself a world of hassle. The clutch pedal needs to be wedged to the floor for bleeding. A piece of 2x4 works fine. Don't be tempted to skip bleeding the clutch even though it is a royal PITA to get at the bleeder.

The wear sensors are not actually required, Many people don't re-install them in the pads and instead just wire them up to the suspension somewhere out of the way. I did not do this. Also, judging by the extremely low resistance through the sensors, I think you can probably just short the plug they attach to and eliminate them together, but I stress that I have not actually tried this myself and am merely guessing.

While the brake job is very simple and easy on these cars, it is definitely possible to botch it up if you are not careful. Here's a link to Pedro's site:
DIY Projects: Do-it-Yourself Repair and Maintenance for your Porsche
His DIY's are well written with lots of pics.

Thus ends my unsolicited advice - good luck!

Thanks guys.

Yeah Timco I really want ceramic. I put a nice set of drilled and slotted rotors with ceramic pads on my daughters Eclipse GTS Spyder and her wheels have never looked so clean.

Wait....




let me get this straight....





More Krams???







http://s.mlkshk.com/r/R74D




:D

Not to throw another (@T in the blender, but every time I hear mention of drilled, dimpled, and slotted rotors I remember many old unresolved debates.

This thread was a good one: http://986forum.com/forums/performance-technical-chat/52440-blank-vs-cross-drilled-vs-slotted-brake-rotors.html. You can find it in just about any performance car forum and to some people its like debating religion.

Sometimes you'll find quoted data supporting opposite views, but usually it's like using a butt-dyno to back up HP claims. After all the debates and flames I have read, I am convinced that good pads, such as the Redstuff are what really matter. For rotors, I expect material is more significant than blank vs drilled vs slot etc. My '99 is staying with blank rotors, the '01 is going to go slotted & drilled. All a matter of aesthetics to me.
:dance:

If you want to make this personal and bring ******************************** into this, then be my guest. I've agreed to not speak of or mention ******************************** and am trying hard to live up to my bargain. I'd love to comment about your ******************************** pic, but will withhold comment.

I've never liked ******************************** and think ******************************** should ******************************** themselves nicely while ******************************** just lives life.....is how I see it.

Have a nice day! :)

Did my front bakes today. The rotor almost wore through the wear indicator.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1429581347.jpg

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1429581398.jpg

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1429581419.jpg

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1429581535.jpg

They look a little better now.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1429581577.jpg

Yahoo! :) :) :) :) :D

LMAO! Time for a beer!

:cheers:

So, the rotor really did cut through the wire after all????

And what proud Porsche owner lets their pads get to the wear sensor without compulsively messing with them way before that??? That is bad, and you should feel bad. Shame.

New setup looks tight. Very nice. I really wanted to go red calipers but the SE came with aluminum painted so I stayed silver. Nice look but not the flash of the red.

Err Hello... look how thin the pads have to get before it can even cut the sensor! :D

And this is on 'Jamesp S' not the OP's car

Thanks James. :D

Also note that the rotor isn't in horrible shape either, yet it cut into the sensor. :cool:

We still need to see what the op comes up with for his issue. ;)

On another note, I'm laughing my rear off at coreseller right now. :p

Yes there are. I have two daughters, the oldest has birthed two more. You're welcome. :p

The rotor didn't quite cut through the wire, but it was close. These are the rotors that came with the car, they have 126K on them. The brake pads were so thin the wear indicator holes only had a paper thin covering of friction material over them. The rotor had that nice lip in the photo to reach out and touch the sensor. After looking this over yesterday, really worn parts are required for this to happen, both rotors and pads. If the wiring is properly dressed on the caliper there is no way for the wires to touch the rotor. Just had to float this out there yesterday, thought folks would get a kick out of it. :D

KC??

So that puts you in your late 30's then, right? Maybe 40ish?

47 and retired as of April 10th, 2015. :)

These are recent pictures of me. I'm in good shape, full head of hair with no gray in it.

http://i60.tinypic.com/987ok0.jpg

http://i62.tinypic.com/vii6oi.jpg

Have all the time I need to research wrenching on my Boxster. Been a motor head all my life, rebuilding motors or what ever needed to be done.


.

kind of reminds me of...

https://33.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_l...cbtpo1_250.gif


lol

the problem is you often refuse to listen to what others are saying,
Case in point, your thread on changing the spoiler deployment speed and how it effects the aerodynamics of the car, MPG and drag, etc

Stop being so argumentative with everyone. If you ask for opinions, don't just argue with everyone who disagrees with you. Accept other opinions for what they are. Remember everyone has an opinion and they are like a-holes, some are smelly and stinky

I'm not a mean guy like Biff, so I won't be knocking you on the head.