Replacing the intake manifold gasket
 

Hi,

I just had a smoke test on my 1999 Boxster. The garage identified a
significant vacume leak in the area of driver side intake manifold gasket which is
connected to the cylinder head.

I had this P1124/1126 code for a while and have replaced many parts that include
AOS, MAF, both oil filler tubes, oil filler cap, gas cap and even the fuel pump.

I should have done the smoke testing long time ago.

Is this a DIY task? Never replaced the intake manifold gasket before.
Where can I find more information about the steps for the job?
Anyone did this before? I apprecate your helps.

Thanks so much.

Steve

Access is tight but it can be done. you sure the manifold just doesn't need to be torqued down? I'd estimate it would take me six hours and lots of cussing to get that job done primarily due to access. With the engine out of the car, it's about 10 minutes. All of the 10 mm bolts torque to 7.5 ft-lbs, go to 8 and they'll want to strip.

Hi James,

Thanks for the information. I just tightened 6 bolts to the cylinder heads. It seems it has stopped
the vaccum leak. I sprayed the carburetor cleaner to the area and no engine speed change was detected.

Thanks so much. You have saved me quite a lot of hassle and money.

Steve

Steve,
Listen to James. Like me he is rebuilding an M96. Nothing like the time,pain and cost of an M96 to focus the mind(& wallet) on prudent maintenance and timely repairs !
James mentions thread stripping. I think this is a silent problem with the M96. There are so many shallow threaded blind holes for steel MEC M6 bolts that get torqued and retorqued into soft aluminum alloy. The threaded holes get choked with dirt/oil in some areas ,corrosion in others. But there are few confessions of accidental stripping ,nor the tedium of helicoiling/timserts. Why?
One alternative to the bolts is to use custom length s/s M6 threaded rod .I use red loctite to secure the thread in the blind hole. And green on the s/s nut.Use a flange nut or at least a s/s washer+nut. But first I chase the threads and clean with brake cleaner+compressed air.This will not work conveniently in some very cramped areas but it is a simple solution/precaution that may help you and others I hope.
Anyone who has had to deal with rusty exhaust manifold studs will immediately understand the merit of this suggestion..