OK the bearing and axle saga continues
 

I got the axle nuts off easy enough, took the caliper, parking break pads off and the secondary cat by-pass pipes today. I tapped the axle nut with a large hammer and it just slid back a short distance...I can move it with my hand now. I removed the hex bolts holding the inner CV joint (they were tough and looked to have some sort of threadlocking compound on them) and the axle fell free from the transmission. I cannot see how there is enough room to get it out, I can not see where you can get enough space to shift it around with the inner free to get this thing out ??

If you have done this please help.

A few notes, my CV boots look to be held in place with giant zip ties ??? is this normal ?

all my Parking brake adjusters look like new, no rust or corrosion anywhere....my cfar must have been someone's garage queen....and for that I am not complaining.

THanks, I am sure more questions to come.

Dwight

it is a bit a of dance with the axles but there is enough room in there to remove them. blue thread locker on bolts for sure . it is also a good time to service the axles as well.

Mark the lower control arm and toe link eccentrics, and then pop the bolts out of each one. Then swing the strut out and forward.

I may have to
 

I see no way to get the axle out, I know the transmission side must be moved to pull the axle out...but do you move it up, down, front or back ???

As per figure 6 you have two choices... all I can tell you is that removing the rear control arm bolt from the carrier can be an absolute $%@# to do... even with a spreader! (be sure you don't damage the rubber boot on the control arm!

Pelican Technical Article: Replacing Boxster CV Joints and Boots / Axle Replacement - 986 / 987

The exhaust pipe is not there
 

I will re takle it with a fresh head between now and this weekend...I was doing this after a 12 hour shift at work

Thanks for all the help

You have two choices to remove the axle: 1. free the spindle (bearing carrier) from LBJ; 2. remove the muffler. It's pretty common to see zip-tie at the CV boots; you're not the only one. Are you using Home Depot bearing tool or the actual bearing tool?

Heiko: I removed my CV joint by removing the LBJ. However, I don't see what's so complicated about it. I've worked on a lot of FWD CV joints and I understand the toughness but that's only because I didn't have the proper tool or applied hte right method.

The special tools you need to get it completed are:

1. BJ spreader
2. Hub puller (5lbs hammer)

You can get all of that HF; I rented mine.

You guys must be lucky in the southern states :) I've had a few here that the BJ spreader just wont budge apart. I've literally had to beat a few out, as the salt on the roads here seems to corrode things so well :( My own however (which never see's salt) came apart easy...
H

Both of my axles were frozen in place. Puller & sledge hammer bangs to break them free. As the spline of the axle leaves the hub, the entire axle will slip down & out.

I removed mine before w/o pulling the trans. I'm pretty sure I pulled my trailing arms if that helps. Car jacked, wheels hanging. The BJs on the trailing arms popped super loud. Scared the shiitake out of me!

When I replace my bolts on my east it regular stainless bolts ok to use or what?
I know this is a ways off but I like to stay in front of parts....also I have a great facility here that sells stainless and different grade steel bolts and fasteners

Exhaust. ...I hate posting front a smart phone

Why not get stock replacement nut/bolt?

"regular" stainless sounds too ambiguous; a certain type can be pretty brittle when heat/cool. I would get the ones that's designed for high temp or exhaust steel or SS.

Since you're in a southern state, I would go w/ exhaust steel bolts.

I was able to get my axles out with a combination of techniques I found online. Once you've unbolted the transmission side, you can put a jack under the wheel carrier and raise it until it almost lifts the car. Then, you can slide the axle out under the transmission. This works by itself on the passenger side. On the driver's side it's a bit tighter and you need to drop the exhaust manifold. This gives you just enough room to remove the axle and joints without having to drop the whole exhaust. Just be careful with the exhaust manifold bolts. They're notorious for snapping off, so be sure to use some PB blaster on them.

Hope this helps.

I did the the cv boots last year. I have a 2003 S with 6 gears. I don't know if the construction differs to non S cars, auto transmission cars, or other MY.

We've put my car on a lift. One person pulled the lower arm down by hanging on it, another person pulled the brake/damper unit to the outside. And than i had enough room to get the axle in and out. Without minimum another person helping i would have never had the opportunity the get the axle in and out.

If you have no-one to help you, or your car is on jack stands i would recommend to remove the exhaust/cat. Else there is definetly not enough room if you have a 6 gear manual on a S model. With a 5 gear, or automatic transmission it may be different.

Regards from germany
Markus

DAY 4

Can we get an update? Pics? How's that going??

too cold to work, plus I had to work 7 days straight this week...later I promise

Sorry about the straight 7, I know how that is and it sucks!

But it's those kind of hours that pay for these upgrades. In my work it's really taxing physically but the checks really roll in when you work those hours.

Cold is another issue entirely. That really is tough to ignore. Harder to work for sure.

Lol... you're in alabama; too cold? Get it into your garage and put on an insulated coverall.

Go get your insulated coverall here; $55, lowest price and high quality. Made in USA - bought one for someone several months ago.