Wheel Bearing replacement cost?
 

Has anyone had this done? I'm getting a grinding crunching noise from my right rear wheel. I got some quotes from shops near me and they tripled the price of the part before tax then added on service etc. I'm trying to get a baseline for what i should be spending to replace one or both sides.

I had one replaced under warranty at the dealer. If I remember correctly it was about $800-1000, that was several years ago.

EDIT: It would appear that the dealer cost is about double the cost of an indy shop.

The wheel bearing itself is not expensive. I paid no more than $50 each for mine (FAG brand if I recall... a German made OEM replacement part). It's the labor to get to it and swap it out. My tech does it in 4 hours at $100 an hour. $450 a corner.

Warning: This job has a very slippery slope to it... While you're removing all the suspension parts, they could easily be replaced without any extra labor charges or very few extra labor charges. Do you need struts? Are your control arm bushings worn, torn, or cracked?

I needed wheel bearings and it ended up costing me $3200 because I had the suspension parts replaced at the same time to save on future labor costs. Something to think about.

Sure it's a wheel bearing and not a cv? Mine made a similar crunching noise that was very noticeable, especially at slow speeds. Replaced my CVs that were leaking and the noise is gone. Also did the rear control arm at the same time, saved a bit in labour.

I have had several wheel bearings replaced by my local indy. Around $350 per corner.

My indy quoted around $400/rear wheel a few years ago Although I did them myself for $39 in parts per side, I don't think his estimate was unreasonable.

The indy was great, he printed out Alldata instructions and even offered to loan me special tools for the weekend (Sir B90 puller). I should have taken him up on his offer but I wasn't quite ready to start the job and I wasn't that familiar with the tool. I pulled the whole hub and pressed the bearing in/out.

Paid $700 and was pissed. Quoted $500 but they had a hard time getting the race off the spindle.

Hmmmm, I got it off and am not an "Indy". Just another reason to do all my own wrenching.

Its possible. When I am on the highway I don't hear the noise however the car feels "off" on the back right side. I hear the noise almost exclusively when I pull away from the curb back into traffic or if I'm reversing out of my driveway. Its really loud and sounds like the side of my car has hit a wall as I accelerate.

Sounds exactly like mine and it was cv's. Make sure to get those checked out as that might be your issue. Both parts make similar noises back there. Are you doing the work yourself, or do you have a good indy shop who you trust?

A friend of mine owns an auto design company so usually I can take it there (car lifts/tools) and do the work myself. However in this case I'm currently sitting at NV Euro Motor which was recommended to me.

They tell me its the its the wheel bearing, suspension (which I don't have to change now but should look into it by next summer) as well they mentioned that my steering wheel vibrates (which I also noticed). They are checking the alignment now and say they will give me a prioritized list of what needs to be done so I can choose.

I paid $606 at my indy shop in 2013. $100 - parts rest labor

So I just got home from the shop. They told me that the bearings are fine but its the differential and that everything needs to be replaced back there. They also said that the transmission is leaking and the shocks are shot.

Ouch. That's really too bad. If you can get her home and do some of the work yourself, that will save you a lot of money, as the biggest cost on these things is the labour. Parts are high, but not crazy. Maybe a good project to do over the winter?

I'm thinking about doing just that. She was supposed to be coming off the road in about ten days anyways. The mechanic told me that shes safe to drive just not to go above 130km/h.

They should be hitting me with a price in a hour or two however Im guessing its going to be 5-6,000 with all the work they quoted me. That's a bit much. If its over 6 im better off just buying another boxster.

If its a 6sp manual get a used tranny and drop it in (you can get one for around $1000 if you look around. They are usually bulletproof unless water got in or something else went wrong... The labor to swap the manual is pretty easy if you have access to a lift. The automatic on the other hand is a bit of a pain to do...
Of course if you pull the tranny you might want to do your IMS/RMS swap since 90% of the labor is already done and maybe even the clutch depending on your mileage...

I have access to a lift however it is Tiptronic. :(

First, it's never a bad idea to get a second opinion.

Second, how badly is the tranny leaking? Is it something that needs addressed right away? I'm no Porsche transmission expert, but in most vehicles, there are a few different types of leaks (locations), some easier to fix (and cheaper) than others.

The good news is if you can do much of the suspension work yourself - just imagine how awesome that car will ride with some new shocks and struts and all that good stuff.

Its never leaked enough to make a mess on the floor if that is what you are asking. I think the suspension will be a winter project. I'm getting the second opinion because of a nagging feeling that popped up when they suggested that I need new tires as well. The car just got Pirelli P-zero's at the start of summer and I've done maybe 2,000 kms?

Something could be rotten in Denmark
 

since you have access to a lift get it up , pull the wheels and covers and get some really good light in there and look at your CV joints. If it is not leaking enough to make a spot on the floor then it might not be that bad.....unless it has all leaked out and in that case it should not shift properly. I had a squeak a shot time ago and it was actually a brake dust shield rubbing the rotor in the rear.Look, look and look some more.