Some Tips for Alternator Swap / Replacement
 

Hi All,

So, having just gone through the dreaded alternator swap, there few tips that seemed to make a big difference which I wanted to list here for those that may also want to take this on next. First, it is really simple to do. It's just an awful design.

Before to start, read "Stuck in Alternator Swap" in this forum.

Then, here are my tips:

*Remove the 1st "short" bolt. Some instructions say to leave it in. Then raise the alternator up, under that lower left side so that the threads are visible. Saw this tip here on 986 forum by Sputter and it was completely right, as it takes weight off the cradle.

*Before you get going, use WD40 on the bushing. Silicone spray etc is not the same. This I believe helped not just for the process of pushing the bushing back a bit, but I think more importantly, for the ability to ultimately "wiggle" or pry it out. It's cheap to do and too simple a step to skip.

***The most important tip I can add, which I hadn't seen written elsewhere explicitly, is to make sure to use the BIGGEST and most solid drift and HEAVIEST hammer you can find when "tapping" the 2nd pulley bolt to push the bushing back out of the cradle. I had started by hitting on it for hours by hitting the end of a my biggest screwdrivers, using that as the drift. But it's not the same. And you can't hit it directly as you may ruin the bolt and pulley. The drift I ended up using was almost 1/2" thick and 6" long and I used it with a "mallet" style steel head hammer. The word "tapping" does not really apply. Give it good, solid hits and keep at it. Let me tell you, in about 10 mins it was out.

*Also, in between your series of hits on the drift, use a pry bar below the right side to get in there, back by the bushing and pry/wiggle. This is important. Don't just wait for the bushing to be visibly pushed back. It's not going to happen that way.

After doing it just as above, out it came. The new one goes in in 5 mins. I've included a picture of the new alternator going in, so that you can actually SEE the dreaded "cradle" that everyone talks about (in the image, up and to the right of the right right bolt hole with the bit of paint on it). I found that part of the problem was being able to picture the problem that I was trying to solve. Hopefully this will help others.

Good luck!

Jeff

-2000 Boxster S Silver/Black
Franklin, MA

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1405260191.jpg

Thanks for taking the time do share your tips/

Guess I got lucky. mine was out in under 20 minutes. I'd read horror stories but didn't run into anything too stubborn.

Glad you got it out ok!

Finished doing my one today, lots on Internet about getting out but getting in was a pig too. Key thing was getting it on the bottom left bolt, then use a crow bar under the right side to hold the weight, get into the passenger side put left arm around the left side of the alternator and swing it down into the cradle almost like a windscreen wiper would be moving (in an arc) rather than thinking it's just going to drop in vertically.

Wasn't the easiest of jobs, but not technical, more just a case of twisting it, wiggling it and a bit of brute force!

"I used it with a "mallet" style steel head hammer. The word "tapping" does not really apply. Give it good, solid hits and keep at it."
Heavy hammering +aluminum =not good.
Try saturating the offending part with Kroil or second choice PB Blaster,multiple times.WD40 is proven ineffective in penetrating oil comparisons on Bitog.
While you are in there ,remember to check the suspect "Y connector" Pelican sells it for about $60.
here is a dwg:
BATTERY CABLE for 2002 Porsche Boxster|986-607-019-02