Convertible top Install problems Help !
 

I had a Robbins glass top installed my '98, but am not convinced that the install was done properly. I connected the clamshell lid but did not yet connect the pushrods, so the top is in 'semi-manual' mode
My observations:
#1. The top seems too tight, it rattles against the windshield frame with the least amount of road chatter
#2. The switch on the B -pillar was disconnected. Where does it go?- photo
#3. Same for a little rectangular plastic piece - photo
#4. Is the rear seal is installed properly or upside down? - photo
#5. The new helper straps seem worthless and the guide fails to thread itself back into the channel
I need validation from our members before returning to the installer.
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1. It will be very tight for some time. Leave it up and latched when ever you are not driving. I read somewhere parking in the sun will help loosen it up. A year and a half after my install, my top is still tighter than the original.
2. Not sure what that is, I don't see it on mine.
3. The rectangular piece is the cover to where the defrost now plugs into. Mine is still in its hole, flipped up. You can pop it back into the hole in picture #3.
4. The seal looks correct. The actual seal is just a bit different from mine(I ave a ATD top) but looks correct.
5. Not sure

Hope that helps, sorry I can't help with all of your questions. The top will be very tight for awhile until it stretches out.

The helper straps (the ones that velcro together) on my Robbins glass top are useless. But the top still seems to track correctly without them fastened.

I had similar issues as you...
 

like others have said, the helper straps (6-7" long) are useless on mine and the guid cables were always falling outside the window trim piece. The solution was that the small springs at the bottom of the b pillar (right above the rear door seam) were inverted and needed to be flipped around...took about 5 minutes to do (will need torx I think) and no disassembly of the top is required.

To clarify...
 

the springs are simply two small bands of metal with screws/holes on each end. They measure about 1/2" by 4" if I remember correctly and are oriented vertically when the top is in the up mode.

Hey, that's a great tip.... thanks, will try this later....:)

I just finished the install on my 2000S today. I plan a separate write up this weekend to document my adventure but I can help just a bit...
1. My top was so tight the first time I tried to latch it that it pulled up the clamshell about an inch!
I backed the top off a bit and was certain I'd screwed up.

Today, I parked the car in the sunshine for an hour or so, then latched the top. It still took two of us to latch but the clamshell stayed put and the top looked great. I left the car in the sun all day. The top goes up and down great but it still took two of us to latch it tonight (but not nearly as tough as last night).

2. The b pillar switch goes just in front of the defroster connector. There should be a 8mm bolt that tightens the switch assembly to the frame. I'll try to get a pic.
DO NOT OPERATE TOP WITHOUT THE B-PILLAR SWITCH IN POSITION as you can over rotate your transmissions and get things all out of whack (ask me how I know). Your top will not know it is up without a signal from the B pillar.

3. Previous reply is correct. The small piece is the defroster receptacle cover.

4. Your rubber body seal is orientated correctly but is not pushed in quite far enough. The rolled edge should be right up against the top fabric. Use a plastic putty knife to push the seal in a little further.
5. My helper straps are not helping either! I plan to play with it next week. Frustrating because I never had that problem with my old top on the the 6 years I've owned the car.

Best of luck!

Thanks Papa, I will 'flip' the springs tomorrow to see if that helps with the tracking. Its good to get feedback from the group after you shell out $750 in labor only to be dissappointed.

[QUOTE=dghii;409639]

2. The b pillar switch goes just in front of the defroster connector. There should be a 8mm bolt that tightens the switch assembly to the frame. I'll try to get a pic.
DO NOT OPERATE TOP WITHOUT THE B-PILLAR SWITCH IN POSITION as you can over rotate your transmissions and get things all out of whack (ask me how I know). Your top will not know it is up without a signal from the B pillar.
QUOTE]

I hope I didn't screw things up too bad. I have been operating the clamshell only... kind of a semi-automatic mode...by pushing the dash button and holding the microswitch down manually near the end of the close cycle (front pushrods are not connected yet). I initially synched the transmissions, but a couple of times I heard a pop from one of the transmissions when I let the motor run a little too long. I'm assuming the cable simply popped or skipped over the plastic gear, and that I didn't break the gear itself. I will disassemble and inspect and resynch the transmissions and hopefully figure out how the microswitch gets mounted and try it again.

Check out this link as it has pictures
 

and is probably clearer than the description I gave. The springs may need to be rotated 180 degrees in their vertical axis...not north to south if that makes sense.

Convertible Top Cable Falling Outside Guide Channel DIY (VERY LONG) *PIC*

[QUOTE=Paul Ri-Chard;409651] I'm glad you had the push rods disconnected! Take your time and get the b-pillar switch connected and you'll be fine. I'm not sure why your installer would have moved or disconnected the switch.