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Miata2Boxster 07-01-2014 04:03 PM

Help please
 
I am hoping for some help trouble shooting an issue I am having with my 2001 Boxster base. Neither window will roll down although the passenger window rolls to the proper position when opening the door handle. Fuse D3 keeps blowing immediately after insertion. Wondering if it is the center console sensor. I just installed a cup holder in there...The horn beeps twice when turning the key to the right. Just had the car interior steam cleaned.

Thanks for any and all informed suggestions.

Flavor 987S 07-02-2014 05:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Miata2Boxster (Post 408174)
Just had the car interior steam cleaned.

Thanks for any and all informed suggestions.

Was everything normal prior to this cleaning?

Check for water under the passanger seat. Hopefully nothing was damaged. Maybe a loose connection????

Miata2Boxster 07-02-2014 05:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Flavor 987S (Post 408223)
Was everything normal prior to this cleaning?

Check for water under the passanger seat. Hopefully nothing was damaged. Maybe a loose connection????

Hi, thanks for responding. Yes, everything worked fine prior to and immediately after steam cleaning the interior. The following day is when the issue with the windows not retracting manifested. I saw no visible signs of water build up or condensation.

The fuse that keeps blowing is C3 not D3 as I indicated in my initial post.

jb92563 07-02-2014 06:11 AM

Sounds like a shorted wire.

Did you nick a wire or knock something loose while installing the cup holder?

Miata2Boxster 07-02-2014 06:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jb92563 (Post 408234)
Sounds like a shorted wire.

Did you nick a wire or knock something loose while installing the cup holder?

The cup holder was inserted into the central arm rest storage space without apparent issue. Not sure why C3 fuse keeps blowing..can't seem to find the short. Hoping I don't need to bring it in to the Porsche Dealership.

Maybe the CLU unit under the driver's seat got wet when the carpets were steam cleaned. Going to take out the seat, inspect and clean the CLU circuit board with isopropyl alcohol. Short of this I am at a loss.

Flavor 987S 07-02-2014 06:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Miata2Boxster (Post 408237)
Maybe the CLU unit under the driver's seat got wet when the carpets were steam cleaned. Going to take out the seat, inspect and clean the CLU circuit board with isopropyl alcohol. Short of this I am at a loss.



If you can, pack (zip-lock bag) the CLU in some desiccant for a couple days to pull out any moisture. Even uncooked white rice would work.

Flavor 987S 07-02-2014 06:41 AM

Only other idea is a failing ignition switch. These are known to cause all kinds of electrical gremlins. Easy and cheap fix. Can even buy a VW part and save a little $$$.

Miata2Boxster 07-02-2014 06:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Flavor 987S (Post 408242)
Only other idea is a failing ignition switch. These are known to cause all kinds of electrical gremlins. Easy and cheap fix. Can even buy a VW part and save a little $$$.

Great to know, thanks! Do you know how I might test the ignition switch to see if it is the culprit in this instance?

runjmc2 07-02-2014 10:18 AM

I would pull up the center area where the window switch is located, remove and clean the switch and then inspect all the wires leading to the switch..could be a short there from the work done.

RandallNeighbour 07-02-2014 10:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Miata2Boxster (Post 408243)
Great to know, thanks! Do you know how I might test the ignition switch to see if it is the culprit in this instance?

If it's not completely shot, you can put in your key, turn it to the on position, and push it in and out and wiggle it a bit and see if the windows magically start working again.

I had some electrical window issues when the microswitch in the center latch for the top was going out. Reseating the center latch by opening the top, sticking my finger up into the hole to actuate the microswitch, then re-locking the top worked for me.

The blowing fuse thing is bothersome though and I think you have a short somewhere, not one of the things above. Just an afterthought to pass along.

Let us know what the culprit was in the end. Others reading this thread in the future will stumble on a solution to their own blown fuse window problems.

Miata2Boxster 07-06-2014 08:51 AM

I did a complete check for shorts and found none. When I unplug the CLU, C3 fuse does not blow. As soon as I plug back in the CLU C3 blows. The Jack a&& prior owner left the CLU unmounted and dangling....seems to not be original either. He must have got a used one and stuck his hand under the seat to make the switch.. When I opened it I found no apparent moisture or corrosion on the circuit board. I guess I will get another and see if it does the trick after installation.

Do I need to have a code to install if I don't use my remote locking function from my keys?

joecal 08-11-2015 04:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Miata2Boxster (Post 408809)
I did a complete check for shorts and found none. When I unplug the CLU, C3 fuse does not blow. As soon as I plug back in the CLU C3 blows. The Jack a&& prior owner left the CLU unmounted and dangling....seems to not be original either. He must have got a used one and stuck his hand under the seat to make the switch.. When I opened it I found no apparent moisture or corrosion on the circuit board. I guess I will get another and see if it does the trick after installation.

Do I need to have a code to install if I don't use my remote locking function from my keys?

I know this is an old post, but did you ever resolve this? I'm having the exact same problem. I hope you have the solution. I switched out the CLU with a re-programmed one and it's still blowing the fuse. I'm hoping the box is good and it's something else that's a minor repair. I paid $495.00 to have the box repaired or I should say replaced with a rebuilt one, but they did say may old circuit board was bad and non-repairable.
Joe

joecal 08-13-2015 10:21 AM

I just thought I'd give an update on my problem with the C3 fuse blowing. I read on another forum a person having the same issue. He said a Porsche mechanic put a 30 amp fuse in the C3 slot and everything worked, he then replaced it with the correct 15 amp fuse and it didn't blow it. He said if it was a direct short to ground the 30 amp fuse would have blown. I tried it with some apprehension but it worked! At least so far it's working. I'm a happy human right now!

epapp 08-13-2015 12:09 PM

When the mechanic put the 30 amp fuse in, it didn't blow (and the 15 amp fuse subsequently worked) because the wires probably vaporized...

particlewave 08-13-2015 12:12 PM

Excellent way to start a fire ;) :p

joecal 08-14-2015 03:05 AM

Maybe you guys are right, both my windows now are stuck in the down position. They come up a little when using the handle that activates the microswitch. I'm assuming that means the motors are fine, but now I need to figure that one out. I know it was probably a dumb thing to do on my part in hindsight. I did check the microswitch for the convertible top latch, but maybe that's bad.

epapp 08-14-2015 07:42 AM

Baby steps...stuck down is much better than stuck up

joecal 08-16-2015 01:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by epapp (Post 461544)
Baby steps...stuck down is much better than stuck up

You are correct, I'd rather have them stuck down, lol. At least I can drive the car with the top down, that is once I replace the top, which I'm in the process of doing. I hope that turns out okay! :)

thom4782 08-16-2015 02:16 PM

The double beep indicates a fault in the central locking system. If you have access to a Durametric, you could get the fault codes. Even then, the codes don't necessarily tell you exactly what part is acting up. Sometimes you'll find several faults and it takes some clever thinking to put it all together. For example, I had the double beep, multiple codes problem and for the life of me couldn't figure out exactly what was going on. One day, someone opened the passenger door and the red light on the door lock rocker switch went on at the same time even though no one was locking anything. This suggested a fault in the passenger door lock and it turned out this was in fact the case. Good luck.

joecal 08-17-2015 02:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thom4782 (Post 461829)
The double beep indicates a fault in the central locking system. If you have access to a Durametric, you could get the fault codes. Even then, the codes don't necessarily tell you exactly what part is acting up. Sometimes you'll find several faults and it takes some clever thinking to put it all together. For example, I had the double beep, multiple codes problem and for the life of me couldn't figure out exactly what was going on. One day, someone opened the passenger door and the red light on the door lock rocker switch went on at the same time even though no one was locking anything. This suggested a fault in the passenger door lock and it turned out this was in fact the case. Good luck.

Thanks for the information and reply. I had a double beep too before this problem, now it's just a single beep when locking the car. I'll have to have it looked at once I get the top on, at least it's driveable. I wonder if it's the microswitches in the doors or the one for the top? I hear it clicking when I move it with my finger but that doesn't mean it's working.
Thanks,
Joe


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