CEL light is on for the first time..
 

Went for a Sunday morning drive and within a few minutes got a steady CEL light on.

I checked the manual and reattached the gas cap and no change.

Well I suspect something is not right and will get the codes read this week.

Any thing else I can check myself?

My to do list:
install or have installed water pump
fix windshield washer leak
see what causes CEL light to come in.

Ayeeeee!
Guy

If u have a parts store near you see if they will pull the codes for you

Most in the states will do this for free.

Yen post the codes and the forumites can all chime in

Mike

I have a wifi OBDII reader I don't use since I went Bluetooth and Android. Want it? I'll send it tomorrow free.

ELM 327. Follow internet instructions to set wifi for Mac devices. You can check and reset codes.

Thanks Timco anyway. I am really not into this car enough to justify getting a code reader at this point in time.

Went to my local indy shop and he read the codes. He reset the code that indicated there was no input from one bank of cams. The engine runs fine and idles well but the CEL light is back on steady again. I will take it back to the indy shop again. Your thoughts?
Thanks, Guy

We need to know exactly what code is being reported. Ask your indy and then post it up and you'll get lots of feedback.

A basic code reader (Actron) is <$40, will read and reset basic codes, and is likely available via a shorter drive than your indy

Hi all,
Was at my indy shop today and he put the code reader on. P1341 code came up.
[This apparently is the varioCam actuator/bank 1.

I looked it up in the search in this forum. So this must be replaced- that is the vario cam actuator but Pelican Parts search does not come up with this part. What is the part I need (or alternative name that is similar?)

How many hours should it take to replace the varioCam actuator/bank 1?
Also the search in this forum came up with AOS being a problem.

Comments?
Thanks all. Guy

in search and rescue we have a term - 'bastard search'. that is, make sure the bastard is actually lost (ie, is he at the bar? with a girlfriend that the wife doesn't know about? etc.). in this case, the bastard search is to check the wiring to the solenoid - bad wiring (loose connector, corrosion, wear against something) may return this error. fix is a helluva lot cheaper than replacing the actual solenoid.

Try searching for this on Pelican site: 996-105-051-58-M100 or words like: Chain Tensioner, For Cylinders 1-3. Perhaps, it just the solenoid that gave up the ghost.

Is it safe to drive this car until I get the parts installed with code P1341? Slight idle roughness though....
G

Can someone tell me if the variocam actuator is the same as the variocam solenoid?
G.

P1341 Camshaft Adjustment, Bank 1 – Below Limit Potential causes: – Short to ground – Actuator faulty – Open circuit in triggering wire – Open circuit in B+ supply

Thanks, G.

The actuator and the solenoid are two separate parts. The solenoid drives the actuator and the actuator expands or contracts the chain rail pads. The solenoid is cheap compared to the actuator.

I took my car to the indy shop today and it is not good. The code P1341 came up again. The camshaft position sensor was previously changed but that did no good.

Camshaft deviation is 9 degrees which the service advisor says is too much. He will tell me Friday morning what needs to be done and how much it will cost. Could be chain guides or something like that. It is likely going to be thousands as the engine will likely have to be opened up. To what extent I will find out tomorrow.

I somehow see a new Toyota suv or second hand Lexus suv in my future. It has been a fun three years.Will keep you posted!

Guy.

Got an estimate a couple of months ago to replace variocam chain pads - 12 hours labor + parts. Good luck.

I would get a second opinion, and be highly suspicious of this expensive (and unusual) diagnosis. I have been on this board for a decade and this issue with the Boxster is atypical.

Is the car having this issue...or is your mechanic seeing $$$$$?

If it were me, i might just run a bottle of techron through and drive the car.

/

Hi guys and girls,

Got the estimate this morning of $6000-7000 canadian. $7k if I want the ims replaced.

The engine needs to be dropped and likely the guide rails have to be replaced.

I will get a second opinion but in all likelhood will sell as is privately with a full disclosure
or trade it in.

Cam deviataion is 9.2 on the left side. I told them to button it up and will pay for the diagnostics so far.

Your opinions as always are always appreciated!

Guy.

PS Probably did not help that I drove it in winter!

ok, here's how it works ...
the variocam system in your car allows the cam profile to change with rpm.

this is accomplished by joining the cams together with chains. an actuator pushes on pads that tighten/loosen the chains to change the cam profile.

the position of the cams relative to each other is monitored by a sensor. this sensor measures cam 'deviation'.

Porsche spec is max 6 degrees deviation, but ECU doesn't throw a code until around 9 degrees (I think).

deviation can increase as the pads noted above wear down. this is a known issue with these cars and evidence of the wear can be seen in gradually increasing deviation as well as green flecks of plastic in the oil filter. there is thought that the chains slapping on the pads during start-up ('start-up rattle') is a big culprit in pad wear.

another known issue with these cars is failure of the sensor; often actually the wiring to the sensor.

the code you received is often associated with the latter issue; as posted by jfp - short to ground, open circuit.

first step is to confirm wiring and replace sensor. it sounds like you replaced sensor - was wiring checked also? was deviation checked before the change?

next, the sensors are sensitive to how they are installed - a poorly installed sensor can give an iffy deviation reading. you have a deviation reading now of 9; did they get a deviation reading from the old sensor before they replaced it? you see, if they couldn't get a deviation reading before the change that means sensor or wring was bad. or they inspected and determined that sensor or wiring was bad and replaced them. what are the odds that you had a bad sensor/wiring, only to determine that your deviation is off after replacement? MUCH more likely that the replacement sensor is off in some manner.

otherwise, this is where a durametric is a great asset - you can regularly check deviation with it, to determine if any change in deviation is sudden (most likely sensor failure) or gradual (pad wear).

If one subtracts ~$1500 for the IMS piece of the estimate (which I think is high), you're left with and estimate of about $5,500 US. My estimate was $1,500 to $1.800 out the door to replace all four variocam chain rail pads in my 01S. This was from a high reputation independent shop in the San Francisco area. So something is off. Two variocam assemblies would add about $2,500 in parts to the job for a total of $4,000. I'd call around a few trusted shops and get some ballpark estimates.